- Thread starter
- #21
Thank you @White Stripe !! This would be cheaper as I already have the mast.
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Yeah, inside the car. The antenna I used is a type commonly used on RVs and boats. ~$20
- Thread starter
- #23
I'll keep it stashed as an option, though still feeling like I want to figure out this nylon cable since its seems like an easy fix and I have half of the solution.
- Thread starter
- #24
Ok, after 2 threads (sorry, still figuring things out here!) I've fixed every bulb in the dash and glove box (also swapped the stereo, but thats a story for another time). I've only now just noticed that there is a tiny in the auto drivers side window button. Dang, I'll have to get to that another day.
BEFORE:
AFTER
So dim, but still a wonderful warm aesthetic. Lovely! Don't have to turn on the map light to turn the heat on any more at night.
Also fixed a high beam bulb. Tool-less bulb changing! Very nice. Nice detail, Toyota.
Figuring out which bulb is which was really tricky, starting from 0 knowledge. Tons of threads, lots of variations between the 80 series. But fundamentally, relatively simple, once you understand the basic pieces.
Detail wise, here are the specific factory bulbs needed I needed to light up every light that was dark in my dash:
2 x 84999-10410 (Type A T3) (Antenna Buttons)
1 x 88607-16010 (Type A T3) (AC switch)
2 x 84999-10320 (Type B T4) (Hazzard, Center diff lock)
1 x Green Dash Bulb 84999-10250 (Type B w/ Gray Connector) (Cig Lighter Ring)
3 x "Ash Tray' (Type 74) (Ash Tray, 2x Climate Dash) 14V 1.4W 90981-11014
"#74 bulb" some say indicator
1 x 'Indicator Bulb' (Type 74) 90981-11018 (glove box) 12V 1.2W W/O SOCKET
But really it comes down these generic types of bulbs:
T4: Bigger wedge/puck bulb
T3: Smaller wedge/puck bulb
74: Glass tube Wege bulb in
I found, of the 20 pages of Definitive LED Thread research spanning 10 or so years, @jcardona1's information to be the most helpful, though I acknowledge the early LED pioneers in that thread, a lot has changed over the years in LED land:
forum.ih8mud.com
forum.ih8mud.com
While the new dash is nice and refreshed back to 0, I started putting together an LED order for nearly every bulb in the car (in and out) not including headlights. Still researching those. Here is what the cart looks like:
BEFORE:
AFTER
So dim, but still a wonderful warm aesthetic. Lovely! Don't have to turn on the map light to turn the heat on any more at night.
Also fixed a high beam bulb. Tool-less bulb changing! Very nice. Nice detail, Toyota.
Figuring out which bulb is which was really tricky, starting from 0 knowledge. Tons of threads, lots of variations between the 80 series. But fundamentally, relatively simple, once you understand the basic pieces.
Detail wise, here are the specific factory bulbs needed I needed to light up every light that was dark in my dash:
2 x 84999-10410 (Type A T3) (Antenna Buttons)
1 x 88607-16010 (Type A T3) (AC switch)
2 x 84999-10320 (Type B T4) (Hazzard, Center diff lock)
1 x Green Dash Bulb 84999-10250 (Type B w/ Gray Connector) (Cig Lighter Ring)
3 x "Ash Tray' (Type 74) (Ash Tray, 2x Climate Dash) 14V 1.4W 90981-11014
"#74 bulb" some say indicator
1 x 'Indicator Bulb' (Type 74) 90981-11018 (glove box) 12V 1.2W W/O SOCKET
But really it comes down these generic types of bulbs:
T4: Bigger wedge/puck bulb
T3: Smaller wedge/puck bulb
74: Glass tube Wege bulb in
I found, of the 20 pages of Definitive LED Thread research spanning 10 or so years, @jcardona1's information to be the most helpful, though I acknowledge the early LED pioneers in that thread, a lot has changed over the years in LED land:
Definitive led thread for 80s
Man @jcardona1, great work! These are some timely new posts for me as well. I can barely see anything on my dash aside from the instrument cluster. I really cringe when having to pull the '94 style dash apart, but using my heater at night is pretty silly these days. Here is a tool tip I will...
forum.ih8mud.com
Definitive led thread for 80s
Update: Dimmer works fine, and no flickering so far. My above picture was with dimmer turned up to max. During usual driving I have it set to just where I can see the other dash lights. The dimmer will go from instruments "off" to bright as fawk.
forum.ih8mud.com
While the new dash is nice and refreshed back to 0, I started putting together an LED order for nearly every bulb in the car (in and out) not including headlights. Still researching those. Here is what the cart looks like:
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- Thread starter
- #25
My 92 Repair guide from Helm Inc came today. Wasn't cheap (they charge like $30 for shipping a book, haven't you head or media mail?!?), and wasn't quite the right year, but close enough. Oh yeah and brand "new"! Looks like its been sitting around for 28 years, but the pages are still 100% unused, so, for the same price as a mangy used one on Ebay, I got a new one. They have a lot of new stuff available for older vehicles.
Now on to locating the owners manual for a 91.
Helm Inc-Your Source for Factory Authorized Service Information
Helm Incorporated's online bookstore provides factory authorized automotive & motorcycle technical publications: Ford, General Motors (GM), Honda Motors, Honda Motorcycle, Suzuki, KIA, Isuzu, Hyundai
www.helminc.com
Now on to locating the owners manual for a 91.
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- Thread starter
- #26
A little tardy, but meant to post this, so better late than never:
Attended the 2020 Winter 4x4 Jamboree this year in Hurricane. I did the Birthing caves trail on Saturday and was the only land cruiser. Trail rated a 4. I didn't want to go much higher since I didn't want to damage the car until I get a second driver.
Here are some pics:
Lineup:
Staging:
Breaktime.
At the caves
Attended the 2020 Winter 4x4 Jamboree this year in Hurricane. I did the Birthing caves trail on Saturday and was the only land cruiser. Trail rated a 4. I didn't want to go much higher since I didn't want to damage the car until I get a second driver.
Here are some pics:
Lineup:
Staging:
Breaktime.
At the caves
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- Thread starter
- #27
Someone locked their keys in the car and decided to smash out their window:
More birthing caves pics:
Back side of gunlock
Big drop:
Didn't get much footage of the technical parts since there wasn't much time top hop out of the car unfortunately.
More birthing caves pics:
Back side of gunlock
Big drop:
Didn't get much footage of the technical parts since there wasn't much time top hop out of the car unfortunately.
- Thread starter
- #28
Not really thinking ahead, I realized on the trail I didn't have a good way to keep track of where I went or was going. After the trip, I look into GPS tracking solutions and I found Gaia GPS. Really nice tool, very utilitarian and is really the perfect tool for off grid trip planning and tracking.
Not documented in the thread yet, I installed a Sony XAV-AX1000 with car play. Gaia just started offering a beta version that works on the CarPlay screen. Has some rough edges but overall I really enjoy it.
After the 4x4 jamboree, I mapped out our rough track:
www.gaiagps.com
Ok thats it for today!
Not documented in the thread yet, I installed a Sony XAV-AX1000 with car play. Gaia just started offering a beta version that works on the CarPlay screen. Has some rough edges but overall I really enjoy it.
After the 4x4 jamboree, I mapped out our rough track:
Gaia GPS: Navigate, Track, and Explore
Plan trips and record GPS tracks for free, with the best outdoor app. Browse hiking trail maps, hunting units, and scout offroad camping trips. Buy a membership to download maps, including topos, aerial imagery, public/private land ownership, and National Geographic.
Ok thats it for today!
- Thread starter
- #29
Oh a couple more repair notes:
The camery power antenna mod (№ 86327-22211) while not widely available on Toyota part sites, is still available from dealers.... maybe. I have one on order, fingers crossed it doesn't come back sold out. If that doesn't work, there is slim pickings on Ebay. Maybe its time to find a reliable after market repair. Plan is to tackle this with OEM, and maybe cross the aftermarket bridge when the antenna breaks in another 10 years
Also, it doesn't appear possible (or at least easy) to top load a new nylon cable on the 91-96 power antenna motors. I tried with my old one and I could not get a retraction. It appears the correct (and only) way to really fix this issue is to remove the motor, and reinstall the nylon cable to the spool, as its intended. I presume the nut on the end of the nylon cable prevents it from sucking into the spool itself. Don't ever cut this cable once its installed!
The camery power antenna mod (№ 86327-22211) while not widely available on Toyota part sites, is still available from dealers.... maybe. I have one on order, fingers crossed it doesn't come back sold out. If that doesn't work, there is slim pickings on Ebay. Maybe its time to find a reliable after market repair. Plan is to tackle this with OEM, and maybe cross the aftermarket bridge when the antenna breaks in another 10 years
Also, it doesn't appear possible (or at least easy) to top load a new nylon cable on the 91-96 power antenna motors. I tried with my old one and I could not get a retraction. It appears the correct (and only) way to really fix this issue is to remove the motor, and reinstall the nylon cable to the spool, as its intended. I presume the nut on the end of the nylon cable prevents it from sucking into the spool itself. Don't ever cut this cable once its installed!
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- Thread starter
- #30
Damn! All these Toyota Dealer parts departments keep saying that they have something in stock, then cancel the order and don't notify me when they discover they don't actually have it in stock/its discontinued. And they dont call you to tell you, you have to follow up, even if you paid already.
Is that the norm at dealers?
Is that the norm at dealers?
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Drop Dave a note at Japan4x4. I just got a whack load of lovely OEM parts delivered to my house many of the parts came up as unavailable in north america. Shipping from japan is not so expensive at all.
- Thread starter
- #34
Capturing some notes on various PNs for bulbs and screws:
Part No.:93530-45020
SCREW, TAPPING
Visor screws
Part No.:74348-12020-B8
HOLDER, VISOR
Part No.:86336-60040
ROD & PIPE,SHIELD (anteena)
Part No.:84999-10410
BULB
Antenna Switch bulb
Part No.: 88607-16010
AC switch
Part No.:84999-10320
BULB
Hazzard and Diff lock
Part No.:84999-10250
BULB
Cig lighter bulb
Part No.:90981-11014
BULB
Climate and Cig Tray bulb
Part No.:90981-11018
BULB
Glove box bulb
Part No.:81760-60080
LAMP ASSY, SIDE MARK
Left side
Part No.:90981-13046
BULB
High beam light
Part No.:93315-14010
SCREW, W/WASHER
Steering column screw
Part No.:90164-50048
SCREW, BINDING TAPPI
Steering column screw
Part No.:93568-55018
SCREW, TAPPING
Part No.:93568-55014
SCREW, TAPPING
Dash screws?
Part No.:93530-45020
SCREW, TAPPING
Visor screws
Part No.:74348-12020-B8
HOLDER, VISOR
Part No.:86336-60040
ROD & PIPE,SHIELD (anteena)
Part No.:84999-10410
BULB
Antenna Switch bulb
Part No.: 88607-16010
AC switch
Part No.:84999-10320
BULB
Hazzard and Diff lock
Part No.:84999-10250
BULB
Cig lighter bulb
Part No.:90981-11014
BULB
Climate and Cig Tray bulb
Part No.:90981-11018
BULB
Glove box bulb
Part No.:81760-60080
LAMP ASSY, SIDE MARK
Left side
Part No.:90981-13046
BULB
High beam light
Part No.:93315-14010
SCREW, W/WASHER
Steering column screw
Part No.:90164-50048
SCREW, BINDING TAPPI
Steering column screw
Part No.:93568-55018
SCREW, TAPPING
Part No.:93568-55014
SCREW, TAPPING
Dash screws?
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- Thread starter
- #35
Fixed the 91 manual power antenna today. Totally a pita. Was going to take pics but overall was super straight forward.
I bought the still available original antenna mast, and a much more difficult to find camry antenna cable and spool.
I didn’t need to take the wheel well apart at all. Just remove the nut and rubber gasket from the outside of the car, then disconnect the bolt holding the antenna assembly in place, and disconnect the electrical connector.
It was almost universally recommended to use needle nose pliers to break the nut free. I found this destroyed my antenna nut because mine has fused to the antenna tube over the years, and the nut is made of very soft chrome metal. I ended up ordering a new nut and trim piece.
A much better removal tool was big pliers with electrical tape on the teeth to protect the trim.
The motor assembly wiggles out of the hole in the engine bay easily, however it remains attached to the antenna signal cable. It has enough slack to work with but it is awkward.
Getting the drum open was easy. One bolt and one nut and washer hold the drum housing on. There is a washer on the back side of the drum housing. Make sure not to loose that, though mine was held on with some grease.
Once open, removing the old spool is easy, it just comes out attached to a gear. Remove the old drum, and broken mast nylon cable.
The hardest part by far was top feeding the new antenna mast cable down into the assembly. You have to align the tube, with the motor assembly open, back into the body to access the antenna tube. Top feed the nylon cable down until it comes out into the motor assembly. It’s really difficult. I found using a twisting motion while applying downward pressure on the nylon cable. Keep trying and you will get it in. I also tried bottom feeing the old cable and then taping the new one. Didn’t work.
Once that’s down, pull it through and attach it to the new drum. This is also quite hard to do, but using some pliers and you will eventually get the nylon cable attached.
At that point, reverse the disassembly process. I added some more lithium grease before closing it up.
The best way to get the motor assembly reattached was to fish it back into its normal position, attach washer trim and nut. Then position the bolt attachment and hand screw in the mounting bolt till you get it started.
Once it’s back in, you can attach the nylon cable nut to the antenna mast screw post. Then suck the whole thing back down into the antenna tube.
Anyway here is a pic of it working:
Now... to figure out if anyone has used this for a CB antenna before?
I bought the still available original antenna mast, and a much more difficult to find camry antenna cable and spool.
I didn’t need to take the wheel well apart at all. Just remove the nut and rubber gasket from the outside of the car, then disconnect the bolt holding the antenna assembly in place, and disconnect the electrical connector.
It was almost universally recommended to use needle nose pliers to break the nut free. I found this destroyed my antenna nut because mine has fused to the antenna tube over the years, and the nut is made of very soft chrome metal. I ended up ordering a new nut and trim piece.
A much better removal tool was big pliers with electrical tape on the teeth to protect the trim.
The motor assembly wiggles out of the hole in the engine bay easily, however it remains attached to the antenna signal cable. It has enough slack to work with but it is awkward.
Getting the drum open was easy. One bolt and one nut and washer hold the drum housing on. There is a washer on the back side of the drum housing. Make sure not to loose that, though mine was held on with some grease.
Once open, removing the old spool is easy, it just comes out attached to a gear. Remove the old drum, and broken mast nylon cable.
The hardest part by far was top feeding the new antenna mast cable down into the assembly. You have to align the tube, with the motor assembly open, back into the body to access the antenna tube. Top feed the nylon cable down until it comes out into the motor assembly. It’s really difficult. I found using a twisting motion while applying downward pressure on the nylon cable. Keep trying and you will get it in. I also tried bottom feeing the old cable and then taping the new one. Didn’t work.
Once that’s down, pull it through and attach it to the new drum. This is also quite hard to do, but using some pliers and you will eventually get the nylon cable attached.
At that point, reverse the disassembly process. I added some more lithium grease before closing it up.
The best way to get the motor assembly reattached was to fish it back into its normal position, attach washer trim and nut. Then position the bolt attachment and hand screw in the mounting bolt till you get it started.
Once it’s back in, you can attach the nylon cable nut to the antenna mast screw post. Then suck the whole thing back down into the antenna tube.
Anyway here is a pic of it working:
Now... to figure out if anyone has used this for a CB antenna before?
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Nice job on the antenna. Keep up with the baseline repairs. Such as hoses, belts, oil leaks, etc. Easier to be proactive than be broken in the desert.
- Thread starter
- #37
I have a manageable oil leak that Im starting the process of tracking down. The place that drips the most appears to also be missing some kind of cover. Maybe starting by replacing that cover would be a good place to start, in addition to cleaning things up a bit and watching for fresh oil/seeepage.
Anyone know what is supposed to go over this hole?
Anyone know what is supposed to go over this hole?
That's just an inspection cover. You could make one out of a flat piece of 1/8" steel plate or even a piece of flat abs plastic. But I wouldn't worry about it too much. It's not contributing to your leak whatsoever. The leak is probably your rear main seal and oil pan gasket. May as well do the transmission input seal too that the torque converter slides into. Make sure you engage the torque converter all the way when reinstalling.
- Thread starter
- #40
Totally unequipped to do rear main seal (need to remove engine/tranny right?). Research from today makes it sound like the oil pan seal can be done without removing the tranny or engine. This seems like a good place to start.
Once I realized this cover has no kind of seal I lost all hope of it fixing the leak, but it does sound like there is some hope for that oil pan seal.
For today, I think I'll just throw on this new oil pressure sender.
Once I realized this cover has no kind of seal I lost all hope of it fixing the leak, but it does sound like there is some hope for that oil pan seal.
For today, I think I'll just throw on this new oil pressure sender.
