Battle of the LT A/T

[bloc]

So, is there a consensus on this?

I've basically been considering the 3 tires listed in this survey because most of my research is from posts in this forum. I had KOs on my 2010 FJ and really liked them, so automatically thought KO2s for my LC200, but got scared off by the many comments about it being horrible in wet conditions, old design, noise, etc. I feel like I see the most varied responses for the KO2s on this forum.

So, I then figured the Toyo AT3s or the Falken AT3Ws are the ones to get...but, crossed off the Falkens after reading about the compound change (no clue if this is true) and their use of lower quality materials...which made the Toyos the only remaining contender, but then I see some YouTube video from TireRack saying that it isn't very good in wet conditions and came in last in their comparison test...

I'm currently at the point of having to reconsider all these brands again as well as throwing in some other names like Coopers, Nittos, Generals, and now maybe even the Yokohamas and Michelins...

Help? My use case is that my LC is a daily driver. It's completely stock now, but will see less mall parking lots after getting new tires and maybe a suspension kit (which has also been driving me crazy with all the different comments and limited availabilities).

One more question...do most prefer Load E ? Tire shops are trying to get me to buy P-metric or C...not sure if this is because these versions are actually preferred or because Load E is out of stock. I'm leaning towards E, so please tell me if I'm wrong here. I think my FJ Trail Teams came with stock KOs that were Load E, so figured I'd stick with E.

Thanks in advance.

It's been a long time since I had KO2s to compare directly but I can say I am really happy with how my Toyo AT3s perform in wet conditions, or any conditions, really.

Keep in mind that Tire rack's wet testing is done on one particular kind of pavement. It is plausible that something about Toyo's compound choice doesn't do well with that exact road surface. This could explain the apparent lack of real-world complaints about wet traction from actual users in spite of the test results.

 

[grinchy]

So, is there a consensus on this?

I've basically been considering the 3 tires listed in this survey because most of my research is from posts in this forum. I had KOs on my 2010 FJ and really liked them, so automatically thought KO2s for my LC200, but got scared off by the many comments about it being horrible in wet conditions, old design, noise, etc. I feel like I see the most varied responses for the KO2s on this forum.

So, I then figured the Toyo AT3s or the Falken AT3Ws are the ones to get...but, crossed off the Falkens after reading about the compound change (no clue if this is true) and their use of lower quality materials...which made the Toyos the only remaining contender, but then I see some YouTube video from TireRack saying that it isn't very good in wet conditions and came in last in their comparison test...

I'm currently at the point of having to reconsider all these brands again as well as throwing in some other names like Coopers, Nittos, Generals, and now maybe even the Yokohamas and Michelins...

Help? My use case is that my LC is a daily driver. It's completely stock now, but will see less mall parking lots after getting new tires and maybe a suspension kit (which has also been driving me crazy with all the different comments and limited availabilities).

One more question...do most prefer Load E ? Tire shops are trying to get me to buy P-metric or C...not sure if this is because these versions are actually preferred or because Load E is out of stock. I'm leaning towards E, so please tell me if I'm wrong here. I think my FJ Trail Teams came with stock KOs that were Load E, so figured I'd stick with E.

Thanks in advance.

There is nothing wrong with a C or D. Your ride will be somewhat better with a lower load number/letter (for most circumstances, unless you're towing 10000 lbs or something). There are numbers for this, so stock (P) is 112 on an LX, I then ran 125 (E) and 129 (E) and now 121 (D).
I prefer the 121 by a large margin. The 129 was pretty finicky on pressure, but was completely manageable.
I found the 112 too soft, nevermind the durability issues of P rated tires in any kind of off road scenario.
Like a lot of things in life, there are many variables and a strong amount of personal preference involved.
Whatever tires you buy, they won't be your last set, so don't get too locked up about it.

 

[highfructose]

So, is there a consensus on this?

I've basically been considering the 3 tires listed in this survey because most of my research is from posts in this forum. I had KOs on my 2010 FJ and really liked them, so automatically thought KO2s for my LC200, but got scared off by the many comments about it being horrible in wet conditions, old design, noise, etc. I feel like I see the most varied responses for the KO2s on this forum.

So, I then figured the Toyo AT3s or the Falken AT3Ws are the ones to get...but, crossed off the Falkens after reading about the compound change (no clue if this is true) and their use of lower quality materials...which made the Toyos the only remaining contender, but then I see some YouTube video from TireRack saying that it isn't very good in wet conditions and came in last in their comparison test...

I'm currently at the point of having to reconsider all these brands again as well as throwing in some other names like Coopers, Nittos, Generals, and now maybe even the Yokohamas and Michelins...

Help? My use case is that my LC is a daily driver. It's completely stock now, but will see less mall parking lots after getting new tires and maybe a suspension kit (which has also been driving me crazy with all the different comments and limited availabilities).

One more question...do most prefer Load E ? Tire shops are trying to get me to buy P-metric or C...not sure if this is because these versions are actually preferred or because Load E is out of stock. I'm leaning towards E, so please tell me if I'm wrong here. I think my FJ Trail Teams came with stock KOs that were Load E, so figured I'd stick with E.

Thanks in advance.

I purchased k02’s for a vehicle I mostly drive when it rains (I drive a challenger when it’s nice out). My Lexus with 275/60r20 k02’s has always been surefooted in the rain. Next time I’m looking at rhe Bg Goodrich trail terrains. They’re a bit lighter and run a bit less pressure so I assume it’ll be easier on my suspension and have a softer ride. Plus the less aggressive tread will probably be better, all things considered in the rain…though again I have no complaints with the current ones…the ones I have are just a bit aggressive both in tread and weight for my usage (they look good though!).

Added bonus: the trail terrain bf good riches actually have a wider tread patch than the stock tires in 275 60 r20…as well as being 33” tall.

 

[flyfish4life]

I purchased k02’s for a vehicle I mostly drive when it rains (I drive a challenger when it’s nice out). My Lexus with 275/60r20 k02’s has always been surefooted in the rain. Next time I’m looking at rhe Bg Goodrich trail terrains. They’re a bit lighter and run a bit less pressure so I assume it’ll be easier on my suspension and have a softer ride. Plus the less aggressive tread will probably be better, all things considered in the rain…though again I have no complaints with the current ones…the ones I have are just a bit aggressive both in tread and weight for my usage (they look good though!).

Added bonus: the trail terrain bf good riches actually have a wider tread patch than the stock tires in 275 60 r20…as well as being 33” tall.

I have those trail terrains on my 100 - good tires and perform well in all conditions.

 

[JZelnick]

Anyone have an idea with what happened with Wildpeak and KO2 pricing? It seems they switched with the Falken significantly more expensive now. It use to be considered a budget option and I would prefer it on my 100 that is used for ski trips.

 

[Idaho Savage]

Wet conditions= Cooper ST Maxx

 

[Madtiger]

Anyone have an idea with what happened with Wildpeak and KO2 pricing? It seems they switched with the Falken significantly more expensive now. It use to be considered a budget option and I would prefer it on my 100 that is used for ski trips.

Maybe the chip and supply chain shortages are affecting the smaller manufacturers more than Michelin/BFG??

I wonder if the other big manufacturers are raising their prices, like Yokohama, Goodyear, Bridgestones, etc.?

 

[Docwyte]

So, is there a consensus on this?

I've basically been considering the 3 tires listed in this survey because most of my research is from posts in this forum. I had KOs on my 2010 FJ and really liked them, so automatically thought KO2s for my LC200, but got scared off by the many comments about it being horrible in wet conditions, old design, noise, etc. I feel like I see the most varied responses for the KO2s on this forum.

So, I then figured the Toyo AT3s or the Falken AT3Ws are the ones to get...but, crossed off the Falkens after reading about the compound change (no clue if this is true) and their use of lower quality materials...which made the Toyos the only remaining contender, but then I see some YouTube video from TireRack saying that it isn't very good in wet conditions and came in last in their comparison test...

I'm currently at the point of having to reconsider all these brands again as well as throwing in some other names like Coopers, Nittos, Generals, and now maybe even the Yokohamas and Michelins...

Help? My use case is that my LC is a daily driver. It's completely stock now, but will see less mall parking lots after getting new tires and maybe a suspension kit (which has also been driving me crazy with all the different comments and limited availabilities).

One more question...do most prefer Load E ? Tire shops are trying to get me to buy P-metric or C...not sure if this is because these versions are actually preferred or because Load E is out of stock. I'm leaning towards E, so please tell me if I'm wrong here. I think my FJ Trail Teams came with stock KOs that were Load E, so figured I'd stick with E.

Thanks in advance.

I can tell you that I’m really happy with the Falken AT3w’s. They’re awesome in the snow and wet, are quiet and balanced out perfectly.

I can’t comment on materials, I doubt they’re made any better or worse than any other tire

 

[NYC570]

So, is there a consensus on this?

I've basically been considering the 3 tires listed in this survey because most of my research is from posts in this forum. I had KOs on my 2010 FJ and really liked them, so automatically thought KO2s for my LC200, but got scared off by the many comments about it being horrible in wet conditions, old design, noise, etc. I feel like I see the most varied responses for the KO2s on this forum.

So, I then figured the Toyo AT3s or the Falken AT3Ws are the ones to get...but, crossed off the Falkens after reading about the compound change (no clue if this is true) and their use of lower quality materials...which made the Toyos the only remaining contender, but then I see some YouTube video from TireRack saying that it isn't very good in wet conditions and came in last in their comparison test...

I'm currently at the point of having to reconsider all these brands again as well as throwing in some other names like Coopers, Nittos, Generals, and now maybe even the Yokohamas and Michelins...

Help? My use case is that my LC is a daily driver. It's completely stock now, but will see less mall parking lots after getting new tires and maybe a suspension kit (which has also been driving me crazy with all the different comments and limited availabilities).

One more question...do most prefer Load E ? Tire shops are trying to get me to buy P-metric or C...not sure if this is because these versions are actually preferred or because Load E is out of stock. I'm leaning towards E, so please tell me if I'm wrong here. I think my FJ Trail Teams came with stock KOs that were Load E, so figured I'd stick with E.

Thanks in advance.

I'm not sure which Toyo's Tire Rack tested but keep in mind that depending on load rating, a specific tire might not representative of the rest. For example, the P toyo at3 has a lot more siping and silica in their compound than the rest in the line and should be better in adverse weather conditions. Even though I have MTs for off pavement, I've done some off roading on the P toyo at3 without problems so far. The P Falken WP have more silica in their compound as well.

 

[Itsky]

I'm not sure which Toyo's Tire Rack tested but keep in mind that depending on load rating, a specific tire might not representative of the rest. For example, the P toyo at3 has a lot more siping and silica in their compound than the rest in the line and should be better in adverse weather conditions. Even though I have MTs for off pavement, I've done some off roading on the P toyo at3 without problems so far. The P Falken WP have more silica in their compound as well.

Good stuff - where can one find information about compound differences between load ranges and sizes? Manufacturer websites are weak.

 

[coleAK]

So, is there a consensus on this?

I've basically been considering the 3 tires listed in this survey because most of my research is from posts in this forum. I had KOs on my 2010 FJ and really liked them, so automatically thought KO2s for my LC200, but got scared off by the many comments about it being horrible in wet conditions, old design, noise, etc. I feel like I see the most varied responses for the KO2s on this forum.

So, I then figured the Toyo AT3s or the Falken AT3Ws are the ones to get...but, crossed off the Falkens after reading about the compound change (no clue if this is true) and their use of lower quality materials...which made the Toyos the only remaining contender, but then I see some YouTube video from TireRack saying that it isn't very good in wet conditions and came in last in their comparison test...

I'm currently at the point of having to reconsider all these brands again as well as throwing in some other names like Coopers, Nittos, Generals, and now maybe even the Yokohamas and Michelins...

Help? My use case is that my LC is a daily driver. It's completely stock now, but will see less mall parking lots after getting new tires and maybe a suspension kit (which has also been driving me crazy with all the different comments and limited availabilities).

One more question...do most prefer Load E ? Tire shops are trying to get me to buy P-metric or C...not sure if this is because these versions are actually preferred or because Load E is out of stock. I'm leaning towards E, so please tell me if I'm wrong here. I think my FJ Trail Teams came with stock KOs that were Load E, so figured I'd stick with E.

Thanks in advance.

I think load E is major overkill on a 200. I’ve always run C or D depending on what I can get at the time. I tow a ~6800 lb camper 10-15k miles a summer all over Alaska and NW Canada and off road fairly hard to get to the AK backcountry, mostly: tundra, sand, technical trails/rock, I avoid rock crawling if at all possible but have to from time to time.

My winter Hakkas are P metric. Honestly if I didn’t tow the camper I’d consider p metric for summer.

 

[TeCKis300]

Anyone have an idea with what happened with Wildpeak and KO2 pricing? It seems they switched with the Falken significantly more expensive now. It use to be considered a budget option and I would prefer it on my 100 that is used for ski trips.

I think the cats been out of the bag for awhile that the Wildpeak's can stand on and above in its merits. They introduced the tire as the small guy, having to stand on price, and fortunately solid merits to gain market share. New small guy brand to the states, but really a branch of heavyweight Sumitomo Rubber Industries (which owns Dunlop) that's been a long standing Japanese company. With factories through Asia, but strong ties in Thailand which is the largest exporter of natural rubber. Little known but the Wildpeaks went through 3 iterations, benching against leading tires, AT1 and AT2 within a short span of time, finally landing on AT3Ws. Which multiple tire insiders with first hand data knowledge, said new technology allowed them to create a tire that performed above the then competition. "W" standing for wear, winter, and wet so you know it designed to perform in those highlight areas.

That was back in ~2017. I still hold AT3Ws in high regard given my time with them and would buy them again. Having the deepest tread in the competitive set is a big thing for long term performance IMO.

I have Toyo AT3s now. I consider them a milder tire than AT3Ws. Not that it's a bad thing, and they have been excellent all around, including the torrential rain I just drove through this morning. Toyos are like the mild mannered overacheiver, buy and forget, and always performing tire. Wildpeaks have much of the same livability characteristics but with edgier capability. Joe Bacal, a professional tire tester involved in the Toyo AT3 development, commented that the Toyo and Falkens went toe to toe trading places 1-3 in almost all metrics. Interestingly, he was especially flattering to the Falkens in his commentary, even when working for Toyo.

 

[TLC2013]

I think the cats been out of the bag for awhile that the Wildpeak's can stand on and above in its merits. They introduced the tire as the small guy, having to stand on price, and fortunately solid merits to gain market share. New small guy brand to the states, but really a branch of heavyweight Sumitomo Rubber Industries (which owns Dunlop) that's been a long standing Japanese company. With factories through Asia, but strong ties in Thailand which is the largest exporter of natural rubber. Little known but the Wildpeaks went through 3 iterations, benching against leading tires, AT1 and AT2 within a short span of time, finally landing on AT3Ws. Which multiple tire insiders with first hand data knowledge, said new technology allowed them to create a tire that performed above the then competition. "W" standing for wear, winter, and wet so you know it designed to perform in those highlight areas.

That was back in ~2017. I still hold AT3Ws in high regard given my time with them and would buy them again. Having the deepest tread in the competitive set is a big thing for long term performance IMO.

I have Toyo AT3s now. I consider them a milder tire than AT3Ws. Not that it's a bad thing, and they have been excellent all around, including the torrential rain I just drove through this morning. Toyos are like the mild mannered overacheiver, buy and forget, and always performing tire. Wildpeaks have much of the same livability characteristics but with edgier capability. Joe Bacal, a professional tire tester involved in the Toyo AT3 development, commented that the Toyo and Falkens went toe to toe trading places 1-3 in almost all metrics. Interestingly, he was especially flattering to the Falkens in his commentary, even when working for Toyo.

That’s a great assessment, spot on. I have noticed the same with brands such as Nokian and Kenda. They introduce their tires at a lower price to gain market share and then gradually raise the price. My personal experience.… the recently released Nokian One HT was $195 a tire (LT275/70r18) while comparable Michelins and other brands were in the mid $200’s. The kenda Klever RTs were $160 a tire when it was introduced and a couple years ago and now that same tire is around $260 (LR275/70r18).

 

[karprive]

I think load E is major overkill on a 200. I’ve always run C or D depending on what I can get at the time. I tow a ~6800 lb camper 10-15k miles a summer all over Alaska and NW Canada and off road fairly hard to get to the AK backcountry, mostly: tundra, sand, technical trails/rock, I avoid rock crawling if at all possible but have to from time to time.

My winter Hakkas are P metric. Honestly if I didn’t tow the camper I’d consider p metric for summer.

If pricing and weight between C and E are the same, would that alter your decision? Was originally looking at the Toyo AT3s and a dealer was pushing me towards C, but when he saw that the weight and price were essentially the same, he said to just go E then.

Lots of good rationale here overall, so thank you everyone for the posts. I think I have a few more tires to research now.

 

[TeCKis300]

If pricing and weight between C and E are the same, would that alter your decision? Was originally looking at the Toyo AT3s and a dealer was pushing me towards C, but when he saw that the weight and price were essentially the same, he said to just go E then.

Lots of good rationale here overall, so thank you everyone for the posts. I think I have a few more tires to research now.

To be sure, make sure to checkout the load specs of the specific tire.

There may be certain tire sizes where it's almost necessary to buy LT-E especially if towing or built heavy. Couple examples:

LT275/65R18 LT-C 113/110T - rated for max 2535lbs @50PSI
35X12.50R17LT LT-C 111Q - rated for max 2405lbs @35PSI

Both of these could be marginal depending on use and build, including myself when towing. Some of us have rear scaled axle weights in excess of ~5k, which may warrant LT-E for more safety margin. Sure, factory rear GAWR is ~4300lbs, but that's another discussion.

The other is that 35x12.5R17 only has a max inflation pressure of 35PSI. Independent of load capability, that really limits the pressure tuning for handling of the tire. I find even my 35x12.5R20s, want more pressure than what's dictated by load, as the sidewall is soft at 35PSI, and will tend to roll-over in more aggressive driving.

 

[Madtiger]

I'm not sure which Toyo's Tire Rack tested but keep in mind that depending on load rating, a specific tire might not representative of the rest. For example, the P toyo at3 has a lot more siping and silica in their compound than the rest in the line and should be better in adverse weather conditions. Even though I have MTs for off pavement, I've done some off roading on the P toyo at3 without problems so far. The P Falken WP have more silica in their compound as well.

Link:

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=275

Toyo Open Country A/T III (On-/Off-Road All-Terrain, LT265/70R17 E 121/118S)

• What We Liked: The steering feels natural and it's quite good in the snow.
• What We'd Improve: It's loud on the road and needs a substantial increase in wet traction.
• Conclusion: A good option that could use some on-road refinement.

 

[Itsky]

To be sure, make sure to checkout the load specs of the specific tire.

There may be certain tire sizes where it's almost necessary to buy LT-E especially if towing or built heavy. Couple examples:

LT275/65R18 LT-C 113/110T - rated for max 2535lbs @50PSI
35X12.50R17LT LT-C 111Q - rated for max 2405lbs @35PSI

Both of these could be marginal depending on use and build, including myself when towing. Some of us have rear scaled axle weights in excess of ~5k, which may warrant LT-E for more safety margin. Sure, factory rear GAWR is ~4300lbs, but that's another discussion.

The other is that 35x12.5R17 only has a max inflation pressure of 35PSI. Independent of load capability, that really limits the pressure tuning for handling of the tire. I find even my 35x12.5R20s, want more pressure than what's dictated by load, as the sidewall is soft at 35PSI, and will tend to roll-over in more aggressive driving.

Assuming we are talking about the toyo at iii, their offerings are so confusing. In the size I am interested in 285/70/17:

Size

SIZE2

UTQG

max load

MAX. INFLATION PRESSURE

TREAD DEPTH

TIRE WEIGHT

RIM WIDTH RANGE

MEAS. RIM WIDTH

SECT. WIDTH

TREAD WIDTH

OVERALL DIAM.

REVS. PER MILE

COUNTRY OF

P285/70R17 117T SL

P285/70R17

600 A B

2,833 lbs

44 psi

13.6/32"

47 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

9"

32.8"

634​

JP

LT285/70R17 121/118S E

LT285/70R17

None

3,195 lbs

80 psi

16.5/32"

55 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

9"

32.8"

634​

US

LT285/70R17 116/113Q C

LT285/70R17

None

2,755 lbs

50 psi

16.5/32"

54 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

9"

32.8"

634​

US

LT285/70R17 121/118S E

LT285/70R17

None

3,195 lbs

80 psi

16.5/32"

54 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

8.8"

33"

630​

JP

Why is the bemoaned P Rated tire able to carry more than the LT-C?

Why are their two E-rated 1lb different? Why are the C and E equal weighted?

Does the P-rated offer more siping and more silica? Will this give me better snow performance?

The LT-C is 15% heavier than the P, is it about 15% more puncture resistant?

Edited to add: What about speed ratings for the above?
Speed Rating

• M = 81 mph
• N = 87 mph
• P = 93 mph
• Q = 99 mph
• R = 106 mph
• S = 112 mph
• T = 118 mph
• H = 130 mph
• V = 149 mph
• W = 168 mph
• Y = 186 mph
• (Y) = 195 mph

It would seem the C rated speed ceiling is pretty low, given real highway speeds. Thoughts?

 

[grinchy]

Assuming we are talking about the toyo at iii, their offerings are so confusing. In the size I am interested in 285/70/17:

Size

SIZE2

UTQG

max load

MAX. INFLATION PRESSURE

TREAD DEPTH

TIRE WEIGHT

RIM WIDTH RANGE

MEAS. RIM WIDTH

SECT. WIDTH

TREAD WIDTH

OVERALL DIAM.

REVS. PER MILE

COUNTRY OF

P285/70R17 117T SL

P285/70R17

600 A B

2,833 lbs

44 psi

13.6/32"

47 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

9"

32.8"

634​

JP

LT285/70R17 121/118S E

LT285/70R17

None

3,195 lbs

80 psi

16.5/32"

55 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

9"

32.8"

634​

US

LT285/70R17 116/113Q C

LT285/70R17

None

2,755 lbs

50 psi

16.5/32"

54 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

9"

32.8"

634​

US

LT285/70R17 121/118S E

LT285/70R17

None

3,195 lbs

80 psi

16.5/32"

54 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

8.8"

33"

630​

JP

Why is the bemoaned P Rated tire able to carry more than the LT-C?

Why are their two E-rated 1lb different? Why are the C and E equal weighted?

Does the P-rated offer more siping and more silica? Will this give me better snow performance?

The LT-C is 15% heavier than the P, is it about 15% more puncture resistant?

The official recommendation is to run 'P' at one pressure, door card pressure. You might increase the rears a couple psi with towing, but there is very little adjustment available. The other issue with 'P' is that air down pressures will be severely limited. I believe Ronny Dahl's channel has this in video showing some P sidewalls aired down, might want to look at that.
Between those options I'd select the 116 C tire or the JP make 121 E.
Target load for a LC/LX is around 2200lb if I recall.

 

[Madtiger]

Assuming we are talking about the toyo at iii, their offerings are so confusing. In the size I am interested in 285/70/17:

Size

SIZE2

UTQG

max load

MAX. INFLATION PRESSURE

TREAD DEPTH

TIRE WEIGHT

RIM WIDTH RANGE

MEAS. RIM WIDTH

SECT. WIDTH

TREAD WIDTH

OVERALL DIAM.

REVS. PER MILE

COUNTRY OF

P285/70R17 117T SL

P285/70R17

600 A B

2,833 lbs

44 psi

13.6/32"

47 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

9"

32.8"

634​

JP

LT285/70R17 121/118S E

LT285/70R17

None

3,195 lbs

80 psi

16.5/32"

55 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

9"

32.8"

634​

US

LT285/70R17 116/113Q C

LT285/70R17

None

2,755 lbs

50 psi

16.5/32"

54 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

9"

32.8"

634​

US

LT285/70R17 121/118S E

LT285/70R17

None

3,195 lbs

80 psi

16.5/32"

54 lbs

7.5-9.5"

8.5"

11.5"

8.8"

33"

630​

JP

Why is the bemoaned P Rated tire able to carry more than the LT-C?

Why are their two E-rated 1lb different? Why are the C and E equal weighted?

Does the P-rated offer more siping and more silica? Will this give me better snow performance?

The LT-C is 15% heavier than the P, is it about 15% more puncture resistant?

Even tho max load shows that…but C still can carry more weight than P-metric…there is some math that is beyond my knowledge….

@gaijin can explain it.

 

[Madtiger]

The official recommendation is to run 'P' at one pressure, door card pressure. You might increase the rears a couple psi with towing, but there is very little adjustment available. The other issue with 'P' is that air down pressures will be severely limited. I believe Ronny Dahl's channel has this in video showing some P sidewalls aired down, might want to look at that.
Between those options I'd select the 116 C tire or the JP make 121 E.
Target load for a LC/LX is around 2200lb if I recall.

Yeah, that is one point that is preventing me from jumping from my KO2 to Michelins Defender in stock size. Airing down is what i always do, even in mild trails……