ARCHIVE Battery Disconnect Overkill...my OCD will be my downfall

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@Dissent If you pull this off, I wouldn't mind some details on part used etc.
 
Dissent said:
I'm stuck with that 2" gauge knockout though. I don't really need, or want to deal with, a temp gauge. Thinking maybe about an AutoMeter Clock. It's like a time warp under the hood sometimes. Any other suggestions?
Click to expand...

I haven't installed mine yet, but I have a Blue Sea circuit breaker that will go in that hole to control the mid-vehicle auxiliary circuit panel (power ports, USBs, inverter, etc. in and around the seats). Looking at the measurements, I think it will drop right in.

285-Series Circuit Breaker - Panel Mount 25A - Blue Sea Systems

Additionally, if you need any more shunts, PM me. Have I got a deal for you :)...
 
I'll post up as I go. The Victron shunt may not feed the rectangle gauge on the disconnect plate AND it's own unit. They sell those rectangle gauges with their own shunt though.
 
mingles said:
I haven't installed mine yet, but I have a Blue Sea circuit breaker that will go in that hole to control the mid-vehicle auxiliary circuit panel (power ports, USBs, inverter, etc. in and around the seats). Looking at the measurements, I think it will drop right in.

285-Series Circuit Breaker - Panel Mount 25A - Blue Sea Systems

Additionally, if you need any more shunts, PM me. Have I got a deal for you :)...
Click to expand...
That's a solid idea. I already have MBR fuses that mount right on the battery though and a 500A shunt. :)
 
After much deliberation, planning and assembly. I've finally installed mine. I incorporated basically the same features as per the original design plus a dual USB port and SAE port for powering lights or charging the battery. I also incorporated a Victron BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor with Built-In Bluetooth. The integration of the Victron 500A shunt, requiring a decent amount of water proofing, was the hardest part. The Victron brain is currently wrapped in a baggie under the hood, I need to route the RJ-11 wire to the rear of the truck when I find my crimpers. The gauge is Bluetooth natively so I can read the data on my in-truck tablet or phone.

Here's some pics and links to Amazon for the equipment I used:

Parts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RTSTKS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ASWUFA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031BOTFC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CJW3ZRP/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CCZF6E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2NTJHS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y4B9G57/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pics
upload_2018-6-25_12-55-56.png


upload_2018-6-25_12-56-23.png


upload_2018-6-25_12-56-45.png


upload_2018-6-25_12-55-16.png


upload_2018-6-25_12-57-8.png
 
I forgot to mention that I *ALMOST* screwed the shunt/plastic box directly to the metal bracket. That wouldn't rendered the shunt mostly worthless. I instead mounted the shunt to the box then mounted the box to the bracket. It's all very well insulated. The hardest part of the shunt install was trying to get a 3" cable made from the Flaming River switch to the shunt with the correct orientation and layout of the terminals. The terminals are almost touching. The 2nd hardest part was trying to cut a Pelican box to accommodate the 1/0 cables. That stuff doesn't like to cut. Drilling makes a huge mess and it ALL sticks to the rubber inner lining. Water rinsed it clean but what a mess!

FYI - I added the Victron monitor to determine how badly my OEM alternator sucked. Turns out, it sucked pretty bad. Nearly no output at idle and about 30A deficient at any given stoplight during the summer months. Now with my OEM 2007 Sequoia 150A (with new bearings and brushes), I'm showing 13.8-14.4V plus 2A ALL THE TIME. Fast idle, slow idle, AC on, 2000 RPM, with the AC blower, AC Radiator Fan, 400W stereo, headlights, etc. AND the best part. With all that running, about 55A if I recall, I bump on my Puma and it keeps on trucking, still 13.8-14.4V plus 2A and EVERYTHING is happy at >900 RPM. I'm a happy camper!! :clap::steer::bounce:

upload_2018-6-25_12-59-41.png
 
God help the guy that needs to diagnose a power feed issue in 10 years:)

A couple weeks ago I was in the dash of my 80 for something and I came across the controller I put in for my subtank. I looked it over and thought "that does look nice. How the hell did I set that up anyway?"
 
Last edited:
cruiserdan said:
God help the guy that needs to diagnose a power feed issue in 10 years:)

A couple weeks ago I was in the dash of my 80 for something and I came across the controller I put in for my subtank. I looked it over and thought "that does look nice. How the hell did I set that up anyway?"
Click to expand...
Yup, I document complex designs for a living though. Lots of pictures, Visio drawings, notes and what not. Those pics help immensely 2 years later trying to recall where I pulled power from a distributed fuse block!
 
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