ARCHIVE Battery Disconnect Overkill...my OCD will be my downfall

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Guys I started making this NOT as a product but as something for me alone. A couple of people saw it and wanted one. Then I started getting a few people involved by showing them pics of the development. Then I just started taking it further and further because I just wanted my life easier. But now I think I've taken this to a point where its either done or its not enough or its too much...and I can't decide which. I used ALL good s*** to make it but as I'm learning, it doesn't equate to product sales.

So I'll just detail what I got so far and see what you all think. If there is interest AND people willing to pre-pay for it then I'll go ahead and make bunch. If not then no biggie, I'm just out a BUNCH of extra supplies that I'll throw on EBay and I'll have one cool bracket to show off at group trail runs:flipoff2:

Since I know I am going to be bugged about the price I will say it needs to be about $300. The 1/0 Marine cable, Flaming River Disconnect and little bits and bobs add up FAAAASSSSTTTT!

Here is what I wrote about it...
IMG_1542.webp


Note: This product fits only the 93-97 LC and LX models of 80 series gas trucks with left hand drive. Basically most of North America. If your main battery is on the left hand side of the engine bay then this will work for you.

This is the Battery Disconnect Mount. Its also Accessory Power Management and also a Mechanic's Power Mount. Hard to think of an all-inclusive name but it really is all of that. This mounts in the space between your battery and core support and is held in place using one existing OEM bolt and the hood bumper. The design of this unit was intended to make life easy by making install as simple as possible. Minimal, easy to understand wiring.

There are (3) reasons why its a good idea to install a battery disconnect:
1. If you store, or don't drive your truck, for long periods of time then you can shut off power and have your battery last longer.
2. Use it as an anti-theft device. Can't start it if there is no power.
3. Use it as a safety device to shut off all power to your truck in case of a fire, electrical or other.

Battery Disconnect: Using the Flaming River battery disconnect. This disconnect is one of the best on the market. Rated at 250 amps of continuous service and 2500 amps of 5 second surges. Its spring-loaded, vibration resistant and waterproof. Accepted by nearly all sanctioning bodies.

Disconnect Bypass: When being used as an anti-theft device or short term storage, there is a 15 amp bypass. This is in place so that you don't have to reset the clock on your truck and radio and you also don't have to give the ECM time to relearn your engine management patterns.

12v Always Hot AKS Plug: Since we are all garage mechanics we tend to want to work on our own truck. This means sometimes you have to work at night or away from your comfy garage. This 12v port allows you to plug in your LED underhood work light or maybe your MV-50 air compressor that all the kids seems to be using these days. Either way you have marine rated Blue Sea Waterproof 12v port waiting for you.

Single Accessory Switch: Included with the mount is a pre-wired waterproof, accessory switch. Whatever accessory you connect to this switch can then be controlled by it. For example if you decide to add a permanently mounted underhood LED bar light to light up the engine bay, you can now control that via this switch. Nothing to think about, just plug and play using the supplied Metri-Pack connector.

Voltmeter and Switch: This voltmeter is your standard, off-the-shelf voltmeter except it has been waterproofed and tested in salt water to make sure it operates as expected. If you have only one battery then all you need is one wire from the main battery. Move the switch to "BAT MAIN" and you can see the battery's voltage regardless if the truck is off or on. If its on then you are seeing the alternator's output voltage. Have dual batteries? Then just connect the second wire to auxillary battery's positive terminal and move the switch to "BAT AUX" and there you go, battery and alt voltage.

12v Probe: Forgot your voltmeter at home? Again? Mounted is a familiar probe lead connector. Simply plug in the supplied lead and now test your connectors for voltage. Utterly convenient.

2" Gauge Knock-Out: Want to mount that ultra cool water temp, fuel pressure, hydraulic pressure gauge under the hood where you could really use the data? Simply cut away the four tabs and knock out the round access point. You now have somewhere to mount your favorite gauge. Also included is an additional 1/2" switch knockout.

• All pre-wired using marine grade wire and connectors
• Blue Sea 6-fuse panel and fuses
• Flaming River battery disconnect
• Positive test probe (6ft)
• 1/0 all new ground cables
• Single Metri-Pack connector kit
• Laser cut and CNC bent stainless steel mount
• Powder coating and laser etching
 
I like it, very nicely done on your install. If i lived in an area where there is a lot of auto theft i would buy one without even thinking about it.
 
I like it, very nicely done on your install. If i lived in an area where there is a lot of auto theft i would buy one without even thinking about it.

Yeah theft is one important reason for using it for sure. But its a small component of the overall thinking...er, over-thinking.
 
Is the wiring pre setup. What is the method of the wiring routing. Sorry I am an idiot on this as I have informed you earlier. I have a ton of stuff wired to my main battery what wires are run to what. I think it is an awesome idea I would be interested in after I understand the wiring setup and where I have to move stuff to. Thanks
 
Is the wiring pre setup. What is the method of the wiring routing. Sorry I am an idiot on this as I have informed you earlier. I have a ton of stuff wired to my main battery what wires are run to what. I think it is an awesome idea I would be interested in after I understand the wiring setup and where I have to move stuff to. Thanks

All wiring is pre-wired. You just need to:

• Connect one wire to aux positive.
• Connect one wire to main positive.
• Connect mount using two existing radiator cowl bolts.
• Replace all of the OEM ground cables with new pre-cut/terminated 1/0...which is BY FAR the hardest part of the install.
• Several #6s for sheer nervousness :flipoff2:
 
Sounds cool. The parts I would use would be the disconnect and the light switch. My ibs system does the readouts on batteries. But as always I love the execution. I would be in for 1.

Reason I did the voltmeter was so that I could test exact battery voltage on either battery and I could check alternator voltage when running over either battery. Having the 12v probe is something I really wanted because I'm constantly trouble shooting and constantly looking for my stupid multi-meter.
 
Very nice piece! Question, why do you need to monitor upper and lower hose temps? Is it for an on board shower? Also, where do you have the senders mounted?
BBQ sensors poked through the hoses.

:hillbilly:
 
Very nice piece! Question, why do you need to monitor upper and lower hose temps?

Is your water pump bad? Thermostat opening? Water pump working? Knowing the inlet and outlet temps help like crazy when you have overheating conditions. This particular application is a use case for the 2" gauge knock-out. This happens to be what I will be using it for. Its not part of the kit. Unless, well, people want it :meh:

Is it for an on board shower? Also, where do you have the senders mounted?

It *could* be purposed for that honestly. The senders are in both radiator hoses using a 38mm adaptor.
 
Just a thought. With the ibs battery system the batteries are linked via a solenoid with pos to pos. Also has neg to neg as well. Will this cause any forsee able issues with the wiring. Also, I am assuming if a thief knew to link the battereies on the monitor they could jump the car, however this is unlikely.
 
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