Guys I started making this NOT as a product but as something for me alone. A couple of people saw it and wanted one. Then I started getting a few people involved by showing them pics of the development. Then I just started taking it further and further because I just wanted my life easier. But now I think I've taken this to a point where its either done or its not enough or its too much...and I can't decide which. I used ALL good s*** to make it but as I'm learning, it doesn't equate to product sales.
So I'll just detail what I got so far and see what you all think. If there is interest AND people willing to pre-pay for it then I'll go ahead and make bunch. If not then no biggie, I'm just out a BUNCH of extra supplies that I'll throw on EBay and I'll have one cool bracket to show off at group trail runs
Since I know I am going to be bugged about the price I will say it needs to be about $300. The 1/0 Marine cable, Flaming River Disconnect and little bits and bobs add up FAAAASSSSTTTT!
Here is what I wrote about it...
View attachment 1087401
Note: This product fits only the 93-97 LC and LX models of 80 series gas trucks with left hand drive. Basically most of North America. If your main battery is on the left hand side of the engine bay then this will work for you.
This is the Battery Disconnect Mount. Its also Accessory Power Management and also a Mechanic's Power Mount. Hard to think of an all-inclusive name but it really is all of that. This mounts in the space between your battery and core support and is held in place using one existing OEM bolt and the hood bumper. The design of this unit was intended to make life easy by making install as simple as possible. Minimal, easy to understand wiring.
There are (3) reasons why its a good idea to install a battery disconnect:
1. If you store, or don't drive your truck, for long periods of time then you can shut off power and have your battery last longer.
2. Use it as an anti-theft device. Can't start it if there is no power.
3. Use it as a safety device to shut off all power to your truck in case of a fire, electrical or other.
Battery Disconnect: Using the Flaming River battery disconnect. This disconnect is one of the best on the market. Rated at 250 amps of continuous service and 2500 amps of 5 second surges. Its spring-loaded, vibration resistant and waterproof. Accepted by nearly all sanctioning bodies.
Disconnect Bypass: When being used as an anti-theft device or short term storage, there is a 15 amp bypass. This is in place so that you don't have to reset the clock on your truck and radio and you also don't have to give the ECM time to relearn your engine management patterns.
12v Always Hot AKS Plug: Since we are all garage mechanics we tend to want to work on our own truck. This means sometimes you have to work at night or away from your comfy garage. This 12v port allows you to plug in your LED underhood work light or maybe your MV-50 air compressor that all the kids seems to be using these days. Either way you have marine rated Blue Sea Waterproof 12v port waiting for you.
Single Accessory Switch: Included with the mount is a pre-wired waterproof, accessory switch. Whatever accessory you connect to this switch can then be controlled by it. For example if you decide to add a permanently mounted underhood LED bar light to light up the engine bay, you can now control that via this switch. Nothing to think about, just plug and play using the supplied Metri-Pack connector.
Voltmeter and Switch: This voltmeter is your standard, off-the-shelf voltmeter except it has been waterproofed and tested in salt water to make sure it operates as expected. If you have only one battery then all you need is one wire from the main battery. Move the switch to "BAT MAIN" and you can see the battery's voltage regardless if the truck is off or on. If its on then you are seeing the alternator's output voltage. Have dual batteries? Then just connect the second wire to auxillary battery's positive terminal and move the switch to "BAT AUX" and there you go, battery and alt voltage.
12v Probe: Forgot your voltmeter at home? Again? Mounted is a familiar probe lead connector. Simply plug in the supplied lead and now test your connectors for voltage. Utterly convenient.
2" Gauge Knock-Out: Want to mount that ultra cool water temp, fuel pressure, hydraulic pressure gauge under the hood where you could really use the data? Simply cut away the four tabs and knock out the round access point. You now have somewhere to mount your favorite gauge. Also included is an additional 1/2" switch knockout.
• All pre-wired using marine grade wire and connectors
• Blue Sea 6-fuse panel and fuses
• Flaming River battery disconnect
• Positive test probe (6ft)
• 1/0 all new ground cables
• Single Metri-Pack connector kit
• Laser cut and CNC bent stainless steel mount
• Powder coating and laser etching
ARCHIVE Battery Disconnect Overkill...my OCD will be my downfall
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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all i want is the bracket, the disconnect, the fuse box, and all needed wiring to plug it all in... for a fair price 
I have An optima batt and not sure this will fit, need dimensions
Flaming river is a seriously overbuilt awesome switch. I have one on the travel trailer to switch off my dual 6volts. I got the model with the removable key.
Is there a mechanism to keep the computer up to date with the flaming river switch turned to the off position?
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
From the source:
Disconnect Bypass: When being used as an anti-theft device or short term storage, there is a 15 amp bypass. This is in place so that you don't have to reset the clock on your truck and radio and you also don't have to give the ECM time to relearn your engine management patterns. This does allow some current through so a parasitic drain could still occur. If that is a concern then remove the fuse.
Disconnect Bypass: When being used as an anti-theft device or short term storage, there is a 15 amp bypass. This is in place so that you don't have to reset the clock on your truck and radio and you also don't have to give the ECM time to relearn your engine management patterns. This does allow some current through so a parasitic drain could still occur. If that is a concern then remove the fuse.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #232
@mryanangel beat me to it. On this thing I really did try to think of everything. It's why this took so damn long. I wasn't 100% happy with it. After testing it for so long and doing my final re-wire for production, I'm happy with it.
Nice! Thanks for the info, I'll order mine today
I would be interested in a mounting plate with zero holes drilled in it except for those to mount it to the vehicle.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #236
Here is your layout. Look it over and see what you think. The holes are specific to your application as is the etching. Please let me know what needs to change. The interior holes can change and the laser etching can change but that is it. Anything beyond that involves an engineering change I can't mess with at this point.
Is it possible to get all the holes and etching except the gauge and gauge switch? I'll definitely add the Flaming River switch and 12v Outlet as money permits.
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