Up to 5-93 the receiver/dryer occupies that spot. Great for rocks, bad for your cool product. 
ARCHIVE Battery Disconnect Overkill...my OCD will be my downfall
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #83
Ok I need to ask a question to those even considering this as even a battery disconnect:
Since there will be new 1/0 ground cables that need to replace the factory battery ground cables AND they would be coming from in FRONT of the battery, would you be willing to have the ground cables come up from the front to connect to the battery and route to block or would you prefer the cables routed under/around the battery?
Reason I ask I'm not finding an ideal cable path without doing some modifications and I'm really trying to keep this all plug-n-play. In my opinion it doesn't look as good, coming from front on top, but it's far easier and the net affect is the same. Helping me decide this will greatly move this project forward.
Since there will be new 1/0 ground cables that need to replace the factory battery ground cables AND they would be coming from in FRONT of the battery, would you be willing to have the ground cables come up from the front to connect to the battery and route to block or would you prefer the cables routed under/around the battery?
Reason I ask I'm not finding an ideal cable path without doing some modifications and I'm really trying to keep this all plug-n-play. In my opinion it doesn't look as good, coming from front on top, but it's far easier and the net affect is the same. Helping me decide this will greatly move this project forward.
ChaseTruck
--
Just a public service request: in your mega-multi page threads - could you please post a synopsis, say, every 5 pages?
Routing underneath sounds a lot cleaner but more $$, how much more? if under $20 or so I would prefer underneath the battery versus in front and across. IMO!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #87
Its not a cost factor at all actually. Going under means its no longer plug--n-play and requires removing battery, modifying the battery box and moving other stuff out of the way. Yes its cleaner but its a lot of work for only an aesthetic benefit. I'm leaning toward running front/top myself just because I'm realizing how much of a pain its going to be just to make it pretty
Its not a cost factor at all actually. Going under means its no longer plug--n-play and requires removing battery, modifying the battery box and moving other stuff out of the way. Yes its cleaner but its a lot of work for only an aesthetic benefit. I'm leaning toward running front/top myself just because I'm realizing how much of a pain its going to be just to make it pretty
Yes, but would you not have to move them anytime you needed to remove your battery anyway! I know that this is not often but I would like the cleaner look myself.
Meh, I'm good with cable routing either way. Sometimes function has to trump form.
Sorry if this has already been covered but are you are cutting the battery ground cable with the master switch?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #91
Yes. The disconnect is basically in-line with the two grounds (block and fender) and the battery's ground post. There is a 15A bypass that runs your clock and ECU to keep from losing time, settings and computer mapping. If anyone tries to Hotwire it, the fuse blows because it can't carry the current needed for the starter.
Still trying to understand the ramifications. Then the disconnect switch interrupts all negative current to the system except for 15 amps? If the switch is disconnected while the engine is running, will the engine amperage draw blow the 15 amp fuse if nothing else is switched on? Would a 15 amp resetable breaker be better than a fuse.
If I added a starter jumper circuit on this panel could I use it to start and stop the engine from there?
If I added a starter jumper circuit on this panel could I use it to start and stop the engine from there?
Assuming the ignition key is at the on position.
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
This is perfect as my truck sits for weeks.. Have funds and ready
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #96
Yeah I suppose it takes some consideration and understanding to fully appreciate what this thing is.
This is correct. The purpose could be for security, for fire or for storage...or all three. If its for long term storage then the 15A bypass will still allow enough current through to eventually drain the battery. I have not tested but I could see the battery eventually draining in a little over a week.
While running? Why would this be done? This would be no different than pulling the battery cable from an old externally regulated alternator on my 68 Camaro RS/SS to see if my alt was working. You shouldn't do that on computer controlled vehicles and some have said not to do that on internally regulated alternators.
Ok...lets say the truck is in park and idling and you turned off the disconnect. What would happen? The truck would likely keep running just as it would if you removed the battery cable. The fuse would be overwhelmed and blow. My assumption is there is still enough grounds connected to keep the truck running just fine. But restarting would be impossible without connecting the ground. Again, why would you? Its a good question, don't get me wrong. I'm just trying to figure out the use case. I don't want a resettable/thermal circuit breaker because then you negate the security aspect. The way its setup, under normal usage, the fuse will never blow.
So my original design actually had a bump start which would do two things (assuming the key is in the ignition and in the ON position):
• Allow me to use as an engine bump for getting TDC or anything other reason I may need to bump without starting
• Allow me to have the ignition switch go through the engine bump's relay so the the starter gets a full 12.6V for starting instead of the old, stock ignition switch reducing the voltage to the starter.
I may still include it on my own set-up but I removed is as part of the project because I was concerned it would:
• Drive up the cost too high
• No one would really use it
I can be swayed. Its actually not difficult to still add the engine bump but I'd like to hear from you guys. I originally wanted this to be around $300. As it sits its closer to $350. If I add the engine bump then its gonna be around $400 and I'm already worried only 3 or 4 people will want this which puts me completely out of pocket for this product. Its fine if its for me but its damn
I have measured about a 30-40 milliamp draw when parked and nothing on. I read this is normal. Probably from the security system.
I was thinking of a convenience aspect, for instance if I was working on the car with the hood open and started the car and came to the front to observe the engine and heard a funny noise, or saw a fuel leak, or saw a tool I left on the engine, or any number of things where I would have to run to the ignition switch to kill the electrical current to the engine. If the cut off at the battery could kill the engine safely than I could use that. As you said, I also suspect it would blow the fuse and then you need to get underneath the mounting plate to replace the fuse. If it had been practical to use it as a cut off for the engine, I was thinking of how nice it would be to have a starter switch there so I could start the engine while observing. As you pointed using the disconnect switch as an engine kill is probably not good.
Ok...lets say the truck is in park and idling and you turned off the disconnect. What would happen? The truck would likely keep running just as it would if you removed the battery cable. The fuse would be overwhelmed and blow. My assumption is there is still enough grounds connected to keep the truck running just fine. But restarting would be impossible without connecting the ground. Again, why would you? Its a good question, don't get me wrong. I'm just trying to figure out the use case. I don't want a resettable/thermal circuit breaker because then you negate the security aspect. The way its setup, under normal usage, the fuse will never blow.
So my original design actually had a bump start which would do two things (assuming the key is in the ignition and in the ON position):
• Allow me to use as an engine bump for getting TDC or anything other reason I may need to bump without starting
• Allow me to have the ignition switch go through the engine bump's relay so the the starter gets a full 12.6V for starting instead of the old, stock ignition switch reducing the voltage to the starter.
I may still include it on my own set-up but I removed is as part of the project because I was concerned it would:
• Drive up the cost too high
• No one would really use it
I can be swayed. Its actually not difficult to still add the engine bump but I'd like to hear from you guys. I originally wanted this to be around $300. As it sits its closer to $350. If I add the engine bump then its gonna be around $400 and I'm already worried only 3 or 4 people will want this which puts me completely out of pocket for this product. Its fine if its for me but its damnpainfulcharitable if its for you guys
I agree you need to keep it as simple as possible, let others customize it for their needs.
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