Battery Cable options and suggestions (1 Viewer)

[JVZii]

I searched around on Mud for some info on this but didn't have any luck.

The battery cables on my 79 FJ40 are original and looking a little sad. The positive side even at it's tightest still slips right off the post and the negative is not much better.

Looking at Amazon there are lots of cool options but I wanted to see if there is some source of cables that I am missing or if anyone has a setup that they like.

Here are my tired cables.

 

[JAG666]

I searched around on Mud for some info on this but didn't have any luck.

The battery cables on my 79 FJ40 are original and looking a little sad. The positive side even at it's tightest still slips right off the post and the negative is not much better.

Looking at Amazon there are lots of cool options but I wanted to see if there is some source of cables that I am missing or if anyone has a setup that they like.

Here are my tired cables.

View attachment 2749605View attachment 2749606View attachment 2749607

JVZii;
"Tired" isn't the word for it.. "Plum Wore Out" is what we'd say in Texas!
Go to your local Autozone (ANY "chain" auto parts store) and buy a pair of
"bolt-on" battery terminals.. (the Battery Cables bolt-on one end and the
terminal bolts-on to the battery).. ALSO, buy a small can of a copper-based
product (Kopr-Shield is what I use) and slather that ALL OVER the battery
terminals (Top, Bottom, Inside & Out!!), any and every exposed area of copper
you can see, "add-on" pig-tail wires, etc. If you can see lead or copper",
paint-it with the Kopr-Shield!! (or equiv product)
This WILL keep the battery terminals from "turning grey" (pre-oxidation which
leads to corrosion).. Check periodically to INSURE no corrosion is "growing"!!
Good ol' Coca-Cola is the BEST "Road-Side" battery cleaner one can buy!! Eats
the crud right off!! Rinse off the Coke with water then always reapply the Kopr-Shield!!
Lastly, DO NOT Overtighten the lead battery terminals.. All that does is
stretch-out the lead, making the terminal easier to loosen-up during driving..
Tighten to "snug" to the point where you CANNOT "twist" the terminal by hand..
I "make" my Battery Terminals last a LOOONG TIME!!
Hope this helps.
Charles 1974 FJ40.
this is ALL you need!!

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Good advice.
You can easily make cables. The "military" ends are good and easy to source. I keep some in my trail kit in case someone brakes and cable.

 

[tpscruisers]

Look up FJ40 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets in the small business storefront as another option. I believe they’re made and sold by @Fourrunner. I’ve read good things on here and plan to buy a set when I finally get put back together

 

[B y r o n]

With all the the things that are added now a days, I believe the military connectors are the best option, hands down. Besides, when adding circuits you don't have to loosen the connection to the post which is a plus.

 

[77mustard40]

Look up FJ40 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets in the small business storefront as another option. I believe they’re made and sold by @Fourrunner. I’ve read good things on here and plan to buy a set when I finally get put back together

X2 I bought a set for my 80 and may do the same for the 40

 

[Andrew S]

@ToyotaMatt sells some very nice replacement cables, I highly recommend them.

 

[1969FJ]

Amazon product ASIN B094NT7H5D

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I searched around on Mud for some info on this but didn't have any luck.

The battery cables on my 79 FJ40 are original and looking a little sad. The positive side even at it's tightest still slips right off the post and the negative is not much better.

Looking at Amazon there are lots of cool options but I wanted to see if there is some source of cables that I am missing or if anyone has a setup that they like.

Here are my tired cables.

View attachment 2749605View attachment 2749606View attachment 2749607

I offer Hand Made and assembled by me personally in my SkunkWorks Lab Heavy Duty over engineered land cruiser battery cables

I use ONLY % toyota genuine parts and ANCHOR Marine genuine
Parts period …

My Anchor cable is super fine strand Tinned solid copper , thick jacket Iv rated , and all my positive cables come fitted with a ANCHOR armor layer of thick marine grade loom . This translates into a bomb design

i modeled my Kustom hand build cables based on a 2005 land cruiser set up,s

so serviceable terminals , not cheezy one time use lead lugs
A flexible accordion design OEM positive terminal cover boot mounting hardware etc

I use old FJ40 and FJ60/ 62 cables I keep for specimens refrence and more importantly JIGS each and every time I make up
A batch …

so factory fit and finish is what you should indeed expect ..

Never any mods or Jerry rigging what so ever

All toyota genuine parts mounting hardware always is included for a fast accurate and most importantly solid electrical conductivity…

I also hand make the all important and indeed required cable Bond #1 starter to frame rail primary ground cable kit originally on All
Land cruisers that left PLANT A11 so very long ago….

GROUND STRAP KIT CABLE BOND NO. 1 Starter Motor to Upper Frame Rail Ground Strap Cable Incudes ALL Mounting Hardware Part# 90980-07003-R Fits: 1962-1990 FJ40, FJ55, FJ60, FJ62 , MUST HAVE when doing NEW battery cables we also offer .. - Vintag

MUST HAVE when doing NEW battery cables we also offer .. Reproduction part , Exceeds OEM Original spec's CABLE...

vintageteqparts.com

Positive B+ CABLE, BATTERY TO STARTER ( FOR BATTERY TO MAIN SWITCH ) 90982-01370 -R Hand Made By our Skunk-Works Staff in-house ! MADE FROM 100% NEW Modern TOYOTA GENUINE PARTS Fits: 1962-1984 FJ40, FJ45 , FJ43 2F ,Old F engines also ! - Vi

- CABLE Sub Assy , BATTERY TO STARTER (FOR BATTERY TO MAIN SWITCH) - Positive B+ - Part #...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[ATLTJ]

Good time to add a negative terminal disconnect as well, I think I have a spare if you want it

 

[devo]

I’m using these from Equipt1

Battery Terminal

These 3-stud 12V battery terminals are great for adding connecting points to your vehicle's main or auxiliary 12V batteries for management of your auxiliary power necessities. There is not an amperage rating on this terminal. Amperage protection is determined by the size of wire attached to the...

www.equipt1.com

 

[Godwin]

Build your own and use the military lugs on the battery. Waytek Wire and McMaster-Carr are good sources for the materials. With build your own you will need to order more pieces, such as lugs, than needed but the up side is that next time you need to build a cable you'll have some or all of the parts. You can also make the cables the length that you need.

 

[Efjayforty]

I would get a new solder on end. You clip off the old end, strip off the insulation, put some solder in the new end and heat it up then dunk the end of your old cable into the solder and presto! I grew up on a farm and worked in an auto parts store through high school and college. Nothing has a higher fail rate that those bolt on type.

 

[JDNs78FJ40]

Look up FJ40 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets in the small business storefront as another option. I believe they’re made and sold by @Fourrunner. I’ve read good things on here and plan to buy a set when I finally get put back together

Got mine from @Fourrunner and they are awesome!

 

[JVZii]

I have to apologize I started this thread and then never replied back.

Thanks for all the input. I ended up taking the method @Efjayforty suggested and got a new solder battery connector and slug. Then I just cut an inch or so off my OEM cable and soldered it up. I was able solder in the starter cable and the power wire together. See the video below.

Came out good all in all but I got the shrink wrap a little hot and needed lots of encouragement to slide over the clamp.

For any one wondering OEM starter wire size is about 2 gauge. Although 1/0 would probably work I thought it was a bit loose with 1/0 but it would probably have gone in.



Pics

 

[Kschep]

can I ask everyone a question about battery cable sizes and choices?
why would someone go with regular 2AWG battery cable
vs going with 1 AWG vs going with 2/0 AWG

I understand each just is able to hold a high amperage...but would there be a reason for me to get a negative battery lead that's 2/0 gauge? is that fracking overkill? I wanna handle a little more amperage but im wondering what everyone else does who adds accessories...

Also, Matt what AWG/Gauge are your B+ cables you make up on vintageteq.com....? im making up my own negative cable and I purchased a positive able from you and your website doesn't have the AWG labelled...

 

[bhsdriller]

No need especially for a ground. Even 1/0 is overkill but all depends on what you're going to be doing and added accessories.

Don't confuse 2awg and 2/0 they are two separate things so you'd use one over the other depending on current demands.

 

[Kschep]

GROUND STRAP KIT CABLE BOND NO. 1 Starter Motor to Upper Frame Rail Ground Strap Cable Incudes ALL Mounting Hardware Part# 90980-07003-R Fits: 1962-1990 FJ40, FJ55, FJ60, FJ62 , MUST HAVE when doing NEW battery cables we also offer .. - Vintag

MUST HAVE when doing NEW battery cables we also offer .. Reproduction part , Exceeds OEM Original spec's CABLE...

vintageteqparts.com

Positive B+ CABLE, BATTERY TO STARTER ( FOR BATTERY TO MAIN SWITCH ) 90982-01370 -R Hand Made By our Skunk-Works Staff in-house ! MADE FROM 100% NEW Modern TOYOTA GENUINE PARTS Fits: 1962-1984 FJ40, FJ45 , FJ43 2F ,Old F engines also ! - Vi

- CABLE Sub Assy , BATTERY TO STARTER (FOR BATTERY TO MAIN SWITCH) - Positive B+ - Part #...

vintageteqparts.com

What size cable did you use for these?

 

[Kschep]

No need especially for a ground. Even 1/0 is overkill but all depends on what you're going to be doing and added accessories.

Don't confuse 2awg and 2/0 they are two separate things so you'd use one over the other depending on current demands.

no I understand completely about the sizes...but im curious if doing 1 gauge or 1/0 is prudent for someone using all the accessories?
im thinking because after looking at the amperage chart I wanna use 1gauge wire for my battery cable pos and neg....is that not correct thinking? if not ill just do the regular 2AWG ... but I wanted to see if anyone had ever made the ultimate decision to go with 1gauge instead of 2 because they had: winch, powerful stereo equipment, arb lockers, dual fuel tank solenoid, tachometer, flood lamps...

 

[C6H12O6]

It's always a good idea to have your ground able to flow as much current as the power wires. I just built 1/0 cables for my 8274 winch, and made new battery power and ground cables. @Fourrunner and @ToyotaMatt are both excellent options if you want to just hit the easy button and have something perfect ready to bolt right on, but it's pretty straightforward to make your own if something custom is what you're looking for.