Battery/alternator help (2 Viewers)

[gamecock2009]

Searched through prior posts about the batttery light coming on but here's my story...

Battery died a few weeks ago, got a jump and it tried to die on me on the way home so I thought maybe alternator was going out. Would re charge the battery at home, start once then be dead. Ran the "alternator diagnosis" function on my home charger connected to the battery, it came back ok. Got a new battery and fixed issues but now light is back on. At idle I'm only getting 11.06 from the battery on my multimeter which is read is low... should be in 13-14 range?

Might have nothing to due with it but my DRL ( less) no longer work, I haven't replaced them with old fashioned halogens yet.

Sounds like alternator is going out... can anyone confirm my work? Gonna dig in a little deeper.

 

[2001LC]

97% sure the alternator on its way out, based on your statements.

Make sure your checking volts on battery clamps and also directly on battery post. They should read the same. A difference in voltage, indicates oxidation between post and clamps, resulting in low charging due to current being inhibited.

 

[gamecock2009]

97% sure the alternator on its way out, based on your statements.

Make sure your checking volts on battery clamps and also directly on battery post. They should read the same. A difference indicates oxidation between post and clamps, resulting in low charging due to current being inhibited.

Thanks! All signs point to alternator

 

[gamecock2009]

Just out of curiosity, I noticed the light goes away when accelerating. Why would this be?

 

[2001LC]

Weak charge below limit, improves with RPM (generator turns faster)
Could be belt slippage is issue or could be alternator.

 

[2001LC]

I found many bad alternators, sing. That is, we hear a sound like bad serp belt squeal or either of its pulley's singing/chirping (bad or going bad). 7 out of 10 bad alt's , are missing front splash shield (#1 undershield) or even just the round coolant drain cover for #1. With the off road crowd, they go deep water to slowly or too deep. Our alternators aren't as good as they should be, at sealing out water and debris.

Be sure all wires including grounds, battery post, clamps, ect. Free from corrosion and sung. Checking voltage at multiple points, all voltage readings, should be the same as on battery post.

 

[gamecock2009]

I found many bad alternators, sing. That is, we hear a sound like bad serp belt squeal or either of its pulley's singing/chirping (bad or going bad). 7 out of 10 bad alt's , are missing front splash shield (#1 undershield) or even just the round coolant drain cover for #1. With the off road crowd, they go deep water to slowly or too deep. Our alternators aren't as good as they should be, at sealing out water and debris.

Be sure all wires including grounds, battery post, clamps, ect. Free from corrosion and sung. Checking voltage at multiple points, all voltage readings, should be the same as on battery post.

Thanks for the response and the information! Everythings pointing to alternator and I have a charger that tests the alternator and its saying there's a fault as well. Got quoted $500 but doesn't look that complicated to do myself so might give it a shot. Can anyone suggest a replacement?

 

[gamecock2009]

Decent access

 

[2001LC]

I only use Toyota OEM -84. -84 is code for remanufactured.

There is a 10mm bolt holding the wire/cable hanger bracket. Make sure to swap that bracket over to your new alt. I can't see well in your picture, if yours is even there. Oftens times, when an ALT has been replaced. The bracket is not moved over to new. Which wire, then bounces around (not good).

The main wire lug held by 10mm nut, is keyed. Make sure both tabs (keys) are their slots in and clocked.

There is also a plastic cover over wire lug and its 10mm nut/stud. Best it's placed back on. It's a guard against arc/spark in event, metal contacts it and ground. A spark that can start a fire otherwise!

 

[gamecock2009]

I only use Toyota OEM -84. -84 is code for remanufactured.

There is a 10mm bolt holding the wire/cable hanger bracket. Make sure to swap that bracket over to your new alt. I can't see well in your picture, if yours is even there. Oftens times, when an ALT has been replaced. The bracket is not moved over to new. Which wire, then bounces around (not good).

The main wire lug held by 10mm nut, is keyed. Make sure both tabs (keys) are their slots in and clocked.

There is also a plastic cover over wire lug and its 10mm nut/stud. Best it's placed back on. It's a guard against arc/spark in event, metal contacts it and ground. A spark that can start a fire otherwise!

Seems all denso are discontinued? Can you point me in the right direction for a good substitute? Thank you for all the help

 

[hadacol]

Rockauto.com and handles core returns

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Decent access

View attachment 3679560

famous last words.

They are doable, but they aren't fun. gotta finagle the thing out. A lot of folks will swing the powerstreering pump out of the way to get more access.

 

[Bisho]

Just did this in the driveway. Remove the PS pulley. You can then get it out through the bottom with a little finagling without removing anything other than the skid plate and air intake.

 

[Bisho]

On later models you may have to take the bolts out of the PS pump. IIRC they changed the pulley to a pressed on at some point.

 

[2001LC]

Seems all denso are discontinued? Can you point me in the right direction for a good substitute? Thank you for all the help

I only use Toyota OEM -84. -84 is code for remanufactured.

I buy from my local Toyota Dealership and return core to same. Always! I do not use anything but Toyota. I do, replace a lot of aftermarkets, as they don't last.

Toyota requires a higher standard and that certain parts be replaced. Other remanufactured ALTs & starters, the tech rebuilding has option as to what is replace and what parts manufacture used.

 

[gamecock2009]

Thanks everyone for your help! Took me about 1.5 hours and this video was a huge help for anyone looking to do this job. Now I have my DRLs back and healthy voltage while engine running.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Next up, make new ground cables

 

[rjh71]

Just out of curiosity, I noticed the light goes away when accelerating. Why would this be?

because it is getting weak but when you accelerate it is maxing out its available power. it should charge at idle. sounds like it is on its way out. mine lasted for a few weeks with me boosting then it would charge for a bit as a drive until it finally failed