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Power steering pump gear bolt:doh:

But even that item is a truly unique item to need on the trail.

in six years and 100K miles that is one place I have not been on my 80,

Good to know, BTW what size is it? I don't think I have any 12 point metric sockets, there were lots of 12 point bolts at my job but all "inch". can you use a wrench or does it require a socket?
 
Sears usually runs a good sale on a 260 piece mechanic set for about $100, I have one and love it. It comes with 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive ratchet and most sockets you'll ever need. The only complaint on the particular set I have (there are various) is that there are no 6 pt sockets for the 1/2" ratchet and today I happened to need one while working on my Cobra. I broke two 3/8" 15mm 6pt sockets on one bolt, took them to Sears and got new ones no questions asked.

I personally wouldn't bother with an oil filter wrench, just don't over tighten the filter.

A good jack stand and floor jack set is priceless, I wish I had one.
 
Here is a good starting set (Craftsman 260 pc. Mechanics Tool Set) on sale for fathers day.

I started with a very similar craftsman set almost 20 years ago, still have a lot of those tools, craftsman sockets have decent strength if a little thick walled, the wrenches are strong but basic, those ratchets are not very good, but that can be fixed. the set is a good value to flesh out a new tool set.
 
That Craftsman 260 pc set is the one I bought last year after carefully considering all the other combinations they offered. It's a good selection and at $100 off you can take the money saved and get some pliers, hammers, crowbar, stethescope (locate exact problem before opening things up), etc.

DougM
 
I've always a bunch of odd Craftsman and a lot of no-name tools around. Last year I decided to start fresh, more or less, and bought that 260 piece Craftsman set. I then decided that I needed some Snap On torque wrenches and ratchets. Then I needed the Snap On line wrenches (for the brake lines).

Long story short and a lot of money later, I seem to have a rather large collection of Snap On with a little bit of Craftsman (still the same 260 piece set). I'm now looking for a big rolling box!

FWIW, I haven't bought any regular Snap-On sockets. I did buy 4 complete metric sets (3/8" and 1/2" shallow and deep) of Snap On impact sockets. They can be used with an impact wrench or a regular ratchet and the wall thickness is thin enough to use almost everywhere. In fact, I think they're are as thin or thinner than the regular Craftsman sockets.

I just bought a few Knipex pliers and I'm starting to research screwdrivers as the Craftsman are just so so. Toolitis can be as bad a disease as the LC sickness!
 
What should be the first torque wrench that I buy?? What will I need for oil and brake jobs in other words.
 
If the budget is tight, I would start with one range from 20-150 ft-lb, then you can add one to cover the lower end (eg. 5-75 ft-lb), and the higher range. Personally, I found the 5-75 ft-lb is the one I used the most. I work on bikes a lot, 40-200 in-lb is also very helpful. As these are precision instruments, you want to invest on a high quality brand like snap-on. Just my $0.02.

CDan started a thread (https://forum.ih8mud.com/tools-fabrication/94885-buy-torque-wrench-good-one.html) a while back might be helpful for your decision making.
 
Craftsman is not the best, but good enough for me and the ease of replacement is why I love them.
 
buy one of these at a "fire sale" :hillbilly:
burntfront.webp
 
Does the torque wrench need to be 1/2 or 3/8 drive?

While I have both, if I were to purchase just one, I'd get a good 3/8 and just use a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter when necessary. Gearwrench has a very nice one that spans the torque range you'll need. Whatever you end up with make sure it is low enough for little things like the oil drain plug/diff drain plug (somewhere around 20-25 ft/lbs) and high enough for items like the caliper bolts (90 ft/lbs).
 
Craftsman seems good enough for most stuff. For stuff like Allen wrenches I get better quality ball-end wrenches, individual L wrenches are more versatile than the folding sets.

Add a set of universal joints to your socket set, I prefer a cheap set of impact joints to an expensive set of standard joints. Adapters too. Extra socket extensions are also worth gold for things like starter motor replacement.

Vice grips are a necessary evil, and a huge pair of Channel Lock (slip joint) pliers is going to save a lot of grief.

Sometimes you need to heat things, and MAPP gas is much better than a propane torch for not much more money. Get an instant-start torch head, much safer and uses much less gas. MAPP torches are pretty common, easy to find.

It's important to stay organized, I use a toolbox drawer organizer to put parts and tools in as I tear things apart. Magnetic bowls are also nice for small jobs. I hate dropping fasteners down into my engine bay! Oh, and a magnetic pickup tool and a claw pickup tool will be worth gold when you do drop stuff into your engine bay.

Flourescent trouble light. Mines broken, gotta pick one up, I feel like I'm crippled without that thing.
 
Koffer-

I read the story about the "fire sale" and that my friend is the find of a lifetime!!!
 
Note on Box -end wrenches - back when I was driving the Tahoe, I got a set of metric Husky racheting box ends as a gift... They sat, shiny and unused. Now, they are a main tool with my 80.

These wrenches get used more often than my sockets, due their 5 degree ratchet capability and their ability to get into very tight spaces where sockets cannot sometimes fit.

I recommend them. A metric set is about $50 give or take, and includes the requisite 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm among others.
 
Flank-

Husky is a good choice, and I have several Home Depot store brand tools, but you can not beat craftman's warranty and ease of exchange. Just my .02
 
Sears is having a 50% off on gear wrenches and a bunch of other tool stuff for 3 Day Fathers day sale.
 
Sears is having a 50% off on gear wrenches and a bunch of other tool stuff for 3 Day Fathers day sale.

:hhmm: Hmmm.... father to be..... think i may have to drop some hints :D
 
just my 2 cents but i love uncle toys factory combo wrenches in the jack tools bag hahahah
 
I have a set of costco generic "gear wrenches." They seem to be holding up nicely and they were only about $20 for a set.

If you do any brake line work, Snap-on line wrenches are an absolute necessary for old frozen nuts. Save yourself >$50 in new hard lines by buying a set of 3. The set I have includes 10/12 13/14 and 15/17 IIRC. I bought them for under 50 bones on fleabay. I have used them on numerous other 80 projects and they are worth the money.

After reading the torque wrench thread, I went with a craftsman. I couldn't find any snap-on's in my budget and I found a craftsman on sale for around 60 or 70. It seems to get the job done, I think it goes from 20-140 or so lb-ft and it's a 1/2". I have a cheap HF 1/4 T. Wrench, but it's a complete pos and I'm prolly better off not using it at all.

I'm a big fan of my walley world stanley deep socket 1/4 set. I use it all the time on small stuff. For the bugger stuff, I went with 1/2" 6 point metric socket set from harbor freight. They are stout enough that they don't distort even at higher torques.

A cheap walley world stanely pick set has been valuable in many situations especially cleaning things in the front axle. I use those all the time.

I didn't know about a mapp torch, but my cheap propane torch has saved my bacon many many times with frozen nuts. Some sort of torch is a must have especially if you are in a rust belt.

Harbor freight has 3 ton (or larger) jack stands for under $30. They seem pretty stout and I have not had any issues with them. The cheap goodwrench wally world ones suck and will crush like a soda can under an 80. 6 ton would be nice, but I have been able to make due with the 3 tons. Even with jack stands I am sketched out getting under my rig, so if I can I throw some solid cement blocks under the lowest part of the vehicle in hopes that if a stand failed or the truck shifted I wouldn't be completely smashed under the truck. I also position myself carefully under the truck to lessen my chances of being pinned under and an axle or something. Also, anytime you are working with the truck on stands its a good idea to have someone keep an eye on you so they could potentially save you if you were unlucky enough to have your safety measures fail.
 

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