Baselining with Wheel Bearings

[OTSWolf]

Hello All,

Ok. I have been slowly baselining everything on my 2002 LC. It has 160,000 on the odometer. No rust of any kind given that it is a SoCal car.

What has been done:

• Water Pump and timing belt at 150,000 just before I purchased it
• All shocks were replaced around 150,000 just before I purchased it
• All fluids were replaced. Synthetic for engine, but everything else was standard fluids, just this past weekend.
• Grease points taken care of this post weekend.
• Interior has had a full detail with carpet shampoo and leather treatment a few thousands miles ago, with kids giving it their treatment shortly there-after

I plan on taking care of the front wheel bearings as I can not confirm they were ever really taken care of and there is a little play.

My question is, what else am I missing for baselining?
And for the wheel bearings, can I just torque the adjusting nut and lock nut or do I have to use the fish scale method? No real consensus on my search.

Thanks all!

 

[DirtDawg]

Heater T's

Some just torque, some use the fish scale, I think everyone gets it close enough that it doesn't really matter. I used to be a fan of the fish scale, but after talking with several mudders, I'm a torquer now.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Anything rubber in the engine compartment.

Brake fluid-flush and bleed the entire system

Repack and possibly just replace the front wheel bearings.

Inspect and think about replacing the brake flex lines at the wheels (look for fine cracks in the bends)

 

[Mike6158]

Brake pads.

What is the recommended torque value for the wheel bearing nut?

 

[aging fleet]

Jonesy's video is pretty helpful, skip to 19:00.

 

[abuck99]

A comprehensive thread on wheel bearings is here
Bearing repack GURUs

@2001LC provided a wealth of experience on the process. Fish scale helps to establish breakaway preload as the starting point for setting torque. Your end point might be between 20-30ftlbs to maintain specified preload.

If your baselining bearings- use fresh everything: bearings, races, lock nuts, thrust washer, snap rings, cone washers, flange nuts. Check flange splines for excessive wear-play. Lube spindle bearings while you're in there.

 

[DirtDawg]

I torque to 25ft-lbs and then check with the fish scale. There is no official number.

 

[2001LC]

Adds to thread:
Use or replace wheel bearings, depending on condition or your wallet. Set the proper gap on hub flange snap ring. By the book (FSM)
Grease axle bearings & bushing, Short cut: Slee - Spindle Grease Tool
Steering rack bushing may be your play, assuming play is while driving. (WhiteLine poly bushing work well ~$50)
Check ball joints & tie rod end ball joints.
Check all suspension bushing front to rear.
----I not replace any rubber, except ones (hoses & belt) you find bad. Factory rubber is the best.
Clean PCV.
PCV DS & PS hoses usually crack and need replacing.
Some of the small hoses on the air box get cracks.
Replace air filter if needed.
Clean MAF sensor. Be sure to disconnect battery for 30 minutes while doing this.
Clean throttle body.
Flush transmission all 12qt. (I like M1 full synthetic MV ATF).
Flush power steering 1qt. (I like M1 full synthetic MV ATF).
Inspect spark plugs (by the book (FSM))
Torque valve cover bolts.
Make sure all rubber bleeder caps are on brakes.
Fix any leak, even smallest.

 

[2001LC]

Wheel bearing preload is set at adjusting & again at locking nut. Set at 9.5 to 15lb with fish scale, Per FSM

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Fish scales are for fish

Jonesy method is way to light.

Set at 30lbs and dont look back

 

[DirtDawg]

@2001LC knows his s***, but tends to over maintain his rigs He lists all good points though.

With 25 ft-lbs on the bearings I read about 12lbs on the fish scale IIRC. Maybe gonna try 30ft-lbs next repack to compensate for the oversize tires.

 

[abuck99]

"Fish scales are for fish" good one but it is a low budget and effective tool for measuring bearing tension though.

I think the FSM leaves room for mis-interpretation of pre-load in relation to torque setting. Easy to get confused by FSM recommendation of low torque setting in Inch pounds vs Foot pounds as most use here. Consensus is that the FSM settings are way too light for most of us and how we use our trucks, and also doesn't provide consideration for load variables like spacers, increased tire size, and so on. Also new bearings will require less torque than older bearings to achieve proper breakaway preload. My old bearings took almost 50ftlbs to achieve 14-15ftlbs of breakaway tension, the new ones about 25ftlbs +/-.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Can one install Trail Gear Chromo Spindle Nut Kit on a 100 Series, Yes & No

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Never understood how a fish scale can apply when temp and type of grease will vary the reading.

 

[DTCsk8er]

It would be a little wild to do them just to do em.. but starter contacts can leave you hanging, especially considering where the starter is located.

Also, is changing out cone washers and flange nuts really needed? My 4runner had been using the same ones for 31 years, probably tore it apart personally at least 10 times.. never saw a need to replace them.

 

[abuck99]

It would be a little wild to do them just to do em.. but starter contacts can leave you hanging, especially considering where the starter is located.

Also, is changing out cone washers and flange nuts really needed? My 4runner had been using the same ones for 31 years, probably tore it apart personally at least 10 times.. never saw a need to replace them.

Sure you can reuse if they are in good shape, but all things considered, if you're doing new bearings do fresh hardware- it's a nominal cost for good benefits.

Many times the lock nuts will have been chiseled on or off from previous techs that didn't have the 54mm socket, thrust washers get grooved, cone washers loose their shape, snap rings loose tension and all of these add up to introducing driveline slack, incorrect bearing preload and early component wear.

It just depends on how anal you want to be about it.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Bearings on these truck are over sized and unless they were run loose they should last close to the lifetime of the truck if services . Lock nuts, cone washers, and flange nuts should also be good unless rusted. Greasing the inner axle bushing and its much easier and faster if you dont use a tool.

How to lubricate front axle shaft bushings?

 

[abuck99]

@LandCruiserPhil - I dont disagree with you. The Timken bearings I pulled out a 170k looked good, rolled smoothly, and may have lasted thousands more miles - who knows. But from the condition of the thrust washer (you could set a marble in the groove on either side and roll it around with out it falling off), the Chernobyled lock nuts from the hack that did the last brake job, the bent snap ring, hammered cone washers, and the finger loose preload, I opted to swap the bearings out since the rotor was already off and all the parts were on the bench ready to go.

Probably stating the obvious here; but longevity of component service life depends on operator input, time between services, quality mentality of the techs doing the work and how diligent they were in following FSM guidelines. I my case I bought my truck with 165k, and as extensive as the service history was, corners were cut over the years resulting in some catch up work.

 

[2001LC]

Fish scales are for fish

Jonesy method is way to light.

Set at 30lbs and dont look back

A bit fishy, anything else is guessing. 30ft - lbf is a good guess

@2001LC knows his s***, but tends to over maintain his rigs He lists all good points though.

With 25 ft-lbs on the bearings I read about 12lbs on the fish scale IIRC. Maybe gonna try 30ft-lbs next repack to compensate for the oversize tires.

It's called blue printing, everything to spec. Over maintainer if you like..

"Fish scales are for fish" good on but it is a low budget and effective tool for measuring bearing tension though.

I think the FSM leaves room for mis-interpretation of pre-load in relation to torque setting. Easy to get confused by FSM recommendation of low torque setting in Inch pounds vs Foot pounds as most use here. Consensus is that the FSM settings are way too light for most of us and how we use our trucks, and also doesn't provide consideration for load variables like spacers, increased tire size, and so on. Also new bearings will require less torque than older bearings to achieve proper breakaway preload. My old bearings took almost 50ftlbs to achieve 14-15ftlbs of breakaway tension, the new ones about 25ftlbs +/-.

Low budget for sure, as fishing scale is what was at hand.

I once thought FSM wrong. But now I read with the understanding the goal is breakaway preload and not torque. Then it becomes clear FSM means what it says.

Can one install Trail Gear Chromo Spindle Nut Kit on a 100 Series, Yes & No

Here is the post you linked in (I made some notes):
►Tighten your first preload 54mm nut tight (FSM: Lock nut)
►Turn rotor/wheel several times
►Loosen preload 54mm nut ((FSM Lock nut) Then; set preload with spring scale)
►Torque to 30 ft/lbs or 360 in/lbs - I like using an inch/lb torque wrench for better accuracy (not in FSM, I've never seen a in-lbf read as high as 360in)
►Turn rotor/wheel several times
►Check torque
►Install star washer
►Install second locking 54mm nut and tighten (FSM: first and only lock nut, it states: torque to 48ft-lbf. Then recheck breakaway preload)
►Bend star washer tabs in and bend tabs out to secure 54mm nuts from loosening

FSM is clear to set, then recheck preload. It demonstrates how breakaway preload is clearly the goal.

****.

Also, is changing out cone washers and flange nuts really needed? My 4runner had been using the same ones for 31 years, probably tore it apart personally at least 10 times.. never saw a need to replace them.

It's been said I'm and "over maintainer" true, but I only change parts because out of spec. Flange nut I should change, but just use blue lock-tight instead. Even snap rings in good shape I'll reuse, provided I get less than .20mm gap.

Bearings on these truck are over sized and unless they were run loose they should last close to the lifetime of the truck if services . Lock nuts, cone washers, and flange nuts should also be good unless rusted. Greasing the inner axle bushing and its much easier and faster if you dont use a tool.

How to lubricate front axle shaft bushings?

I agree, if bearing and snap ring are keep tight, most of these parts well last and last.

I do like the Slee - Spindle Grease Tool for axle & bushing. It save time and I find gets too the needle bearing much better and easily. Beside I can't gets my finger up the back side as some do.

 

[DirtDawg]

@2001LC you know I'm just teasing Mad respect for the time you put into these rigs.

Hopefully we can hear back from OP soon on how the base lining is going