Can one install Trail Gear Chromo Spindle Nut Kit on a 100 Series, Yes & No

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LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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I run this awesome set up on my 80 and off road race vehicles is the past so I wanted to install a set on my LX470. Called TG and the guy on the phone tell me they are not listed for the 100 series. Ok, but the spindle nuts and star washer are exactly like the 80s. The guy on the phone tell me 'I dont what to tell you'. :rolleyes: Being one against the system I think they will work so I ordered a set. :flipoff2:

Very nice product and never worry about a wheel bearing becoming loose again if set up properly when installed.


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The install goes smooth and Im checking clearances along the way. Keep in mind my LX470 is Part-Time.

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The assembly is flush with the hub, good.

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Lots of room, this works what is TG talking about, no workie.

Then I think I should check the drive plate before I go talking s*** about not for a 100.


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▲NO BUENO▲ on factory drive plate

End results if you dont have ▼THESE▼ TG Chromo Spindle Nut Kit
will not work:(

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I like the spindle nut kit but I have mixed feelings about the locking hubs. 70/30 like / not sure. Seems like it would save wear and tear on the front driveline but might drive the traction control system nuts
 
Hello.

Not sure about the lc100, but for my full time lc80, i was told by TG to use button head screws instead of the one supplied. Not installed them yet so i can't tell for sure, just what they told me after i bought the nuts.
 
Hello.

Not sure about the lc100, but for my full time lc80, i was told by TG to use button head screws instead of the one supplied. Not installed them yet so i can't tell for sure, just what they told me after i bought the nuts.

▲Good info▲ I bought some Philips screws for backup/spares for my 80. I need to check and see it they give the needed clearance.
 
Do the stock nuts have a tendency of loosening up? Is this something that should be checked periodically?
 
Do the stock nuts have a tendency of loosening up? Is this something that should be checked periodically?

IMO the stock design requires strong attention to detail to set correctly and stay tight for any given length of time. With that said it is a good idea to checked wheel bearing tightness from time to time.
 
I wouldn't say tendency or anything. They can, and it's something you should check, but maybe once a year. It's an easy check, jack up tire, hold tire at 6 and 12 and wobble in that axis. You'll have a small amount of play, but anything more means you need to check the tightness of the spindle nuts.
 
I wouldn't say tendency or anything. They can, and it's something you should check, but maybe once a year. It's an easy check, jack up tire, hold tire at 6 and 12 and wobble in that axis. You'll have a small amount of play, but anything more means you need to check the tightness of the spindle nuts.

You will have zero/no play if adjusted correctly and parts in good shape.
 
You're going to get a small amount of jiggle shaking the whole tire, not necessarily through the hub, but from the upper arm or deflection sideways from the tie rods. It's just an indicator.
 
I wouldn't say tendency or anything. They can, and it's something you should check, but maybe once a year. It's an easy check, jack up tire, hold tire at 6 and 12 and wobble in that axis. You'll have a small amount of play, but anything more means you need to check the tightness of the spindle nuts.

You're going to get a small amount of jiggle shaking the whole tire, not necessarily through the hub, but from the upper arm or deflection sideways from the tie rods. It's just an indicator.

Your post are miss-leading for a newbie. At 6 and 12 o'clock position there should be Zero movement as noted above. Any play should be check out. At 3 and 9 o'clock you will always get movement from the steering linkage on any vehicle.
 
I don't think it's misleading at all, go jack up your truck and try it. Chasing a noise I just did last week, hub nuts are set per FSM. There's a small amount of jiggle. Definitely not wobble or noticeable movement, but you can jiggle it. Maybe your truck is super uber within spec and special, but for all the 100s, other LCs, etc. I've worked on, it's the same as mine. Maybe your definition of "Zero" movement and mine are different. Saying it tends to loosen, that's misleading.

BTW, appreciate you trying these out, didn't know TG was producing them. Can't say I like the company, but they do make some neat kit.
 
Sadly, I jumped the gun an purchased the TG kit and they arrived the day after you posted that they don't fit.....bummer...

had my bearings replaced by an indie shop and have taken it back twice in the past year because of developing excessive play.....on the first return they admitted the the claw washer was in bad shape, so I ordered new nuts and washer and had them tighten again on the second return visit....now I have play again, mostly the driver's side and I'm just going to take the time to tear down and reset myself. :slap:

Any tips on getting it tight so it doesn't come loose again(or at least as quickly)....I figured I would get a fish scale and just err on the side of tighter, rather than looser....and I guess while I've got it apart again, I'll repack the bearings with fresh grease :cool:
 
Sadly, I jumped the gun an purchased the TG kit and they arrived the day after you posted that they don't fit.....bummer...

had my bearings replaced by an indie shop and have taken it back twice in the past year because of developing excessive play.....on the first return they admitted the the claw washer was in bad shape, so I ordered new nuts and washer and had them tighten again on the second return visit....now I have play again, mostly the driver's side and I'm just going to take the time to tear down and reset myself. :slap:

Any tips on getting it tight so it doesn't come loose again(or at least as quickly)....I figured I would get a fish scale and just err on the side of tighter, rather than looser....and I guess while I've got it apart again, I'll repack the bearings with fresh grease :cool:


Use your money for a torque wrench. The only thing your fish scale is good for is fish if you want a correct long lasting bearing set up;)

►Tighten your first preload 54mm nut tight
►Turn rotor/wheel several times
►Loosen preload 54mm nut
►Torque to 30 ft/lbs or 360 in/lbs - I like using an inch/lb torque wrench for better accuracy
►Turn rotor/wheel several times
►Check torque
►Install star washer
►Install second locking 54mm nut and tighten
►Bend star washer tabs in and bend tabs out to secure 54mm nuts from loosening

This is a proven set up. Some guys with larger (+35) go with more torque without issue.

In the end there should be ZERO play using the 12 & 6 Oclock checking method.
 
Use your money for a torque wrench. The only thing your fish scale is good for is fish if you want a correct long lasting bearing set up;)

►Tighten your first preload 54mm nut tight
►Turn rotor/wheel several times
►Loosen preload 54mm nut
►Torque to 30 ft/lbs or 360 in/lbs - I like using an inch/lb torque wrench for better accuracy
►Turn rotor/wheel several times
►Check torque
►Install star washer
►Install second locking 54mm nut and tighten
►Bend star washer tabs in and bend tabs out to secure 54mm nuts from loosening

This is a proven set up. Some guys with larger (+35) go with more torque without issue.

In the end there should be ZERO play using the 12 & 6 Oclock checking method.


Good instructions, one addition though:►Install second locking 54mm nut and tighten (to 47FT lbs)


 
Well, after reading LandcruiserPhil's post, I took another look at the Trail Gear kit I put on my 100 a couple weeks ago....... I checked for fit and found that one of the four little allen bolts was touching inside of the spindle cap? lightly. To be safe, I countersunk the two little allen heads into the tabbed washer with all the holes, about halfway down.
Each time the bearings get packed, the allen head bolts will need to be checked because it may be in different holes.
Seems to work but the beauty of the Trail Gear kit is was it was supposed to be easy and quick for multiple settings. Countersinking the allen heads adds time.
In hindsight, I would just use the stock tabbed washers.
The Lokka kit is calling me.......
 

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