Baselining my 1997 fzj80 3xlocked Rust Bucket of Hope! 🙏🙏🙏 (1 Viewer)

[80 Series Al]

Well that persistent C E L ... Yep it's the dreaded 0401 time for egr delete

 

[80 Series Al]

What's next....
Grease diffs
Heater control valve
PHH
Then all this stuff...

View attachment 2423861
My horn sounds,.,.funny

This latch has caused my heart to skip a beat on more than one occasion. I've hit it w PB for months...it has a plastic grommit thing that won't allow for smooth operation...replacement down by the eBay 15$ or @slow95z
View attachment 2423863
Pcv, just do it?
View attachment 2423864
Looking pretty discolored and one hose bulging... Only a matter of time... This job should be near the top.

Opinions?

Al out

day

Can someone

That could fall under "make it safe" or under "make it pretty".

If the suspension is unsafe such as a broken spring or bad shocks, then yes.

The basic "make it drive" refers to making it physically able to move under it's own power, so replacing bad bearings, changing oils, no bent axles or broken steering components.

The "make it safe" part could include replacing tie rod ends, or new tires.

It depends on your interpretation.
If it will take you to/from work in relative safety, then I would push it further down the list.

In example, I knew I had one spring that was collapsed by 2" on the RR of my truck.
It still got me where I needed to go and I was only able to feel it as a problem a few times.
I knew my plan was to install a lift, but I had many other things to spend the money on before I was ready for the lift.
I made my list of what I wanted it to be and the parts I needed to get there, then I prioritized according to safety or urgent need. I wasn't ready to drop $1200 on a lift until I had the oil leaks taken care of and the front axle rebuilt and new tires.

So I waited. Since I knew exactly what I wanted, I was able to jump on an opportunity when another member installed a lift and decided he didn't like it. My needs were different than his and it was exactly what I wanted. I got it for a huge discount and timing was right. It still took another 18 months for me to get it installed because.of timing.

It took me about 8 hours in my driveway to replace the springs and shocks.

I had done longer brake lines long before because I needed to replace the lines and I knew what I needed eventually, so I did them at that time, do when the time came for the suspension, it was fast.

I love it when a plan comes together!
Can't wait to get to the final stage, everything done, rock solid, saving up for the big ticket items,.,.at least for now all the parts are cheap compared to all that stuff later, bumpers, tents, shiny stuff!

 

[80 Series Al]

Just found a place with top hatch for 120!
Gonna go n see this weekend!
Will report back!
!

 

[Perfected]

Since you are looking for reliability:

Do the MECHANICAL things first, unless the rust or other makes something unsafe. Rocker panels are low on that list.

* Make sure the brakes work very well. Replace brake hoses, rotors, calipers, pads.
* Make sure your engine is reliable. It may leak a little, but that's rust protection. If you can get 5000 miles on an oil change and only be down one quart of oil at the 5000 miles mark, you're golden.
* Make sure your cooling system is up to the task. If the radiator is yellowed, replace it. Replace ANY hoses that have dry rot marks on them, especially the PHH and around the heater valve. Do the rear heater bypass at this time. Keep the heater, but bypass the hard steel lines with Gates green stripe hoses and tuck them up, away from the catalytic converters.
* Make sure your axles and wheel bearings are good. Do one axle at a time, prepare ahead of time with all parts necessary. Do rebuilds in "groups" so you only expend your labor once.
* RESEARCH your projects. Everything you are planning on doing here has been done before by SOMEONE. Search it out, look up videos, ask on here on the hard stuff. Rusty stuff is hard, but there are techniques that can make it easier, but you will have to own specialty tools.
* PB Blaster is you friend. Buy a LOT of it, by the case. Seriously.

Make it run
Make it stop
Make it safe
Make it reliable
Make it pretty.

Always in that order.

So... has anyone swapped a 7.3l power stroke into a 80 series before?

 

[80 Series Al]

So... has anyone swapped a 7.3l power stroke into a 80 series before?

Sounds purdy but I love my 4.5straight six,.,.maybe one day ...

 

[80 Series Al]

Uhhh guys,.,Why does it feel like I lost a ton of brake pressure last night and I have like 50% more pedal travel,.,.stops kinds good I guess.. but that pedal travel even makes it take longer,.,.it bites,.,.but not til I'm like at the floor,.,.my abs light is on,.,.kinda weird,.,.if I spool up the revs and try to hit the brake there's is almost no bite even at the bottom,.,. Until the revs drop... Then it bites...huh

Edit***Uhh I started a thread for that one in 80series tech feeling kinda crazy driving through an intersection...

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Uhhh guys,.,Why does it feel like I lost a ton of brake pressure last night and I have like 50% more pedal travel,.,.stops kinds good I guess.. but that pedal travel even makes it take longer,.,.it bites,.,.but not til I'm like at the floor,.,.my abs light is on,.,.kinda weird,.,.if I spool up the revs and try to hit the brake there's is almost no bite even at the bottom,.,. Until the revs drop... Then it bites...huh

Edit***Uhh I started a thread for that one in 80series tech feeling kinda crazy driving through an intersection...

My rusty 91 had to have all new brake hard lines because they rusted through. I wouldn’t drive it until you figure out what’s wrong.

 

[JeepinPete]

You popped a brake line. Should be easy to find, there will be a new wet spot somewhere. If it is still braking decent, you probably blew the rear line. If you are unlucky, it will be the line that runs between the fuel tank and the frame.

 

[Pippylongsausage]

You popped a brake line. Should be easy to find, there will be a new wet spot somewhere. If it is still braking decent, you probably blew the rear line. If you are unlucky, it will be the line that runs between the fuel tank and the frame.

I would add that if one popped, the rest aren’t far behind. Get a bunch of tube, a bender, and a flare tool and start replacing them all, unless you want to be chasing brake fluid leaks every couple months.

 

[80 Series Al]

My rusty 91 had to have all new brake hard lines because they rusted through. I wouldn’t drive it until you figure out what’s wrong.

I ordered the one on the driver rear, $20 from Toyota parts local, I'm about to call back and order the rest!

You popped a brake line. Should be easy to find, there will be a new wet spot somewhere. If it is still braking decent, you probably blew the rear line. If you are unlucky, it will be the line that runs between the fuel tank and the frame.

Pete thx for chiming in!
When I took it out this morning my normal pedal travel was fine, hit the brakes for a stop, and it kinda hinged up where it usually stops then clicked past and ALLL the way down.,.
It stopped fine,.,.but felt like my foot was on the floor... made it home with a few more similar stops loooong pedal travel but stops ,.,.

I would add that if one popped, the rest aren’t far behind. Get a bunch of tube, a bender, and a flare tool and start replacing them all, unless you want to be chasing brake fluid leaks every couple months.

At 20$ a pop Id rather use OEM
Are they discontinued or what
Gotta call toyota back

 

[Grandlooser]

Buy A roll of 3/16 copper nickel and a load of fittings. Trust us, if rust is an issue on your truck (it is) then they all need doing. It's so much easier to get into the mode and do all of them at once, flush all fluid and bleed them , than it is to deal with parts of it every 3 months.

 

[80 Series Al]

Buy A roll of 3/16 copper nickel and a load of fittings. Trust us, if rust is an issue on your truck (it is) then they all need doing. It's so much easier to get into the mode and do all of them at once, flush all fluid and bleed them , than it is to deal with parts of it every 3 months.

How does this look

I'll be burning that midnight oil tonight boy
Better pick up some bottles

 

[80 Series Al]

Well this is the before...

Come for the bad mechanic skills stay for the rust show

 

[80 Series Al]

Saw this while under there ,.,.geez I have no idea what it even is...anyone wanna tell me what I'll be replacing next.. smh do I laugh or cry?!

I bet one hit from my trusty Hart hammer and it shatters into a million peices

 

[80 Series Al]

Not that I'd ever do that

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Damn you work quick! I believe that used to be your lspv. You can replace it with a “T” if you don’t want to buy a new one.

 

[Saito]

Saw this while under there ,.,.geez I have no idea what it even is...anyone wanna tell me what I'll be replacing next.. smh do I laugh or cry?!

View attachment 2428180
I bet one hit from my trusty Hart hammer and it shatters into a million peices

That *was* your LSPV. Read up on how to delete it here and get it done. You won’t regret it. You’ll only reuse one line off the frame(top one IIRC) and your brakes will work a lot better once it’s gone.

 

[80 Series Al]

That *was* your LSPV. Read up on how to delete it here and get it done. You won’t regret it. You’ll only reuse one line off the frame(top one IIRC) and your brakes will work a lot better once it’s gone.

That would be nice lol
I just can't wait to bleed the brakes ooo wee my favorite!!

 

[80 Series Al]

Damn you work quick! I believe that used to be your lspv. You can replace it with a “T” if you don’t want to buy a new one.

It's work quick or don't work as it's my daily lol what have I gotten myself into!

 

[80 Series Al]

Carnage

Couldn't loose one line bolt! Brackets started bending...