Baselining my 1997 fzj80 3xlocked Rust Bucket of Hope! 🙏🙏🙏 (1 Viewer)

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I'm confused... Are you doing all this stuff BEFORE figuring out the side that is trashed and rotting?


Lol this truck is my DD, it will go under the knife soon enough, still looking for a good body guy.
In my garage sit a replacement door, b pillar, and both driver and passenger side rockers... I thought I posted about finding that stuff on like page 5,.,.,

Just do me one favor, don't go getting behind the wheel all confused ok! I mean I'm also looking for a parts car ;) but I'd hate to see another northeasterner go!
 
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Now I’m confused, when you were collecting all the parts I thought you were going to do the work. Paying someone for that kind of work well cost three times what you paid For your truck.
 
Well
Now I’m confused, when you were collecting all the parts I thought you were going to do the work. Paying someone for that kind of work well cost three times what you paid For your truck.

I figured as much... It's the DS rocker,b pillar, and hanging the rear door...u really think a good job would be in the $4,5,6k range...hmmm

Well sir,.,. Then this becomes an intense weekend project...kinda seems like I'd have to do all 3 jobs together for it to not be insane extra work.....I really have no idea....How long does a rig have to sit after a fresh weld job...???

I wonder if I could hammer it out Friday night into Saturday morning and have it road worthy by Monday... Sounds like something I would do..
 
I've been focusing on drivetrain after my local Land Cruiser Dr. gave me the green light on the frame and eased my worries u had about the rust... I'm still playing it by ear... Bought it with 268k now sitting at 271k and feeling amazing as my DD to work! Still I need to have certain assurances about the drivetrain before I go spending all that time and money into anything other than driving it,.,. I could literally give 2 s***s about a it's appearance as long as it holds up structurally, hell I'd even continue driving it everyday as long as it's sound, and bide my time to do the job right....lol I only spent 2,700 on this vehicle. It's almost guaranteed to pay me my investment in a couple clean yrs of service... After that I feel like it's kinda money in the bank... :meh:
 
I've been focusing on drivetrain after my local Land Cruiser Dr. gave me the green light on the frame and eased my worries u had about the rust... I'm still playing it by ear... Bought it with 268k now sitting at 271k and feeling amazing as my DD to work! Still I need to have certain assurances about the drivetrain before I go spending all that time and money into anything other than driving it,.,. I could literally give 2 s***s about a it's appearance as long as it holds up structurally, hell I'd even continue driving it everyday as long as it's sound, and bide my time to do the job right....lol I only spent 2,700 on this vehicle. It's almost guaranteed to pay me my investment in a couple clean yrs of service... After that I feel like it's kinda money in the bank... :meh:
Focus on the mechanical first.

You can scuff, solvent wipe. and prime over welding as soon as it's cool enough to lay your hand on it. Yes, you could do a panel a weekend, easily.

On the rear gate, I would shop for one to bring that's from the southern or western states. Probably even find one in that color and just R/R and be done.
 
I've been focusing on drivetrain after my local Land Cruiser Dr. gave me the green light on the frame and eased my worries u had about the rust... I'm still playing it by ear... Bought it with 268k now sitting at 271k and feeling amazing as my DD to work! Still I need to have certain assurances about the drivetrain before I go spending all that time and money into anything other than driving it,.,. I could literally give 2 s***s about a it's appearance as long as it holds up structurally, hell I'd even continue driving it everyday as long as it's sound, and bide my time to do the job right....lol I only spent 2,700 on this vehicle. It's almost guaranteed to pay me my investment in a couple clean yrs of service... After that I feel like it's kinda money in the bank... :meh:
270k is nothing for the 80 especially if it was maintained. There one of the most over engineered vehicles even built. Love it and it will love you back. 😉
 
Well


I figured as much... It's the DS rocker,b pillar, and hanging the rear door...u really think a good job would be in the $4,5,6k range...hmmm

Well sir,.,. Then this becomes an intense weekend project...kinda seems like I'd have to do all 3 jobs together for it to not be insane extra work.....I really have no idea....How long does a rig have to sit after a fresh weld job...???

I wonder if I could hammer it out Friday night into Saturday morning and have it road worthy by Monday... Sounds like something I would do..
With a fraction of the money you would spend to pay someone to do the work you could invest in some tools to do the job you’re self. A 110 fluxcore welder is all you would need to do that kind of body work, that and a cut off wheel Would be a good start.
The satisfaction you would get from doing the job you’re self is priceless.
There are countless YouTube videos on how to do this. 😉 just sayin
 
Focus on the mechanical first.

You can scuff, solvent wipe. and prime over welding as soon as it's cool enough to lay your hand on it. Yes, you could do a panel a weekend, easily.

On the rear gate, I would shop for one to bring that's from the southern or western states. Probably even find one in that color and just R/R and be done.

Yes those trunks seem to be abundant, in Queens junkyards I'm seeing tops w/out glass for under 100

270k is nothing for the 80 especially if it was maintained. There one of the most over engineered vehicles even built. Love it and it will love you back. 😉

Lol the two I've owned I bought em both with 270k
 
With a fraction of the money you would spend to pay someone to do the work you could invest in some tools to do the job you’re self. A 110 fluxcore welder is all you would need to do that kind of body work, that and a cut off wheel Would be a good start.
The satisfaction you would get from doing the job you’re self is priceless.
There are countless YouTube videos on how to do this. 😉 just sayin

I think this is the path I'm headed down, the more guys tell me I can pull this off the more I'm starting to believe :slap:
 
It'll just be very wise to secure another ride for a while or else you will be checking your watch and trying to make the work fit your time window. This is not the kind of job for that, lots of measuring, lots of mock-up and re mock-up , lots or corrosion protection work etc. The paint and finish can wait a little while but not months.
 
The "baselining" continues...

Abs problem diagnosis
Or
Purchase grease gun and appropriate greases

Let's do both!

@BILT4ME Would
make it run
make it drive

include rough suspensions?
Not sure how bad I am, but it's not super comfy..it's actually jarring over mild bumps..

ah the problems of a LC owner :grinpimp: :grinpimp: :grinpimp:
 
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Good for you to tackle a very difficult project (if you ask me). I bought a LX450 recently and pulled the head due to the pesky heater hose.

That's a frame off restoration 80 if you ask me though and +6 months of time/work. Sand blast and then weld in any new base material.
 
Good for you to tackle a very difficult project (if you ask me). I bought a LX450 recently and pulled the head due to the pesky heater hose.

That's a frame off restoration 80 if you ask me though and +6 months of time/work. Sand blast and then weld in any new base material.

That reminds me to add that PHH to the ever growing list lol

Thanks for rooting me on,.,.I'm in way over my head lol,.,. sink or swim ;)
 
The "baselining" continues...

Abs problem diagnosis
Or
Purchase grease gun and appropriate greases

Let's do both!

@BILT4ME Would
make it run
make it drive

include rough suspensions?
Not sure how bad I am, but it's not super comfy..it's actually jarring over mild bumps..

ah the problems of a LC owner :grinpimp: :grinpimp: :grinpimp:
That could fall under "make it safe" or under "make it pretty".

If the suspension is unsafe such as a broken spring or bad shocks, then yes.

The basic "make it drive" refers to making it physically able to move under it's own power, so replacing bad bearings, changing oils, no bent axles or broken steering components.

The "make it safe" part could include replacing tie rod ends, or new tires.

It depends on your interpretation.
If it will take you to/from work in relative safety, then I would push it further down the list.

In example, I knew I had one spring that was collapsed by 2" on the RR of my truck.
It still got me where I needed to go and I was only able to feel it as a problem a few times.
I knew my plan was to install a lift, but I had many other things to spend the money on before I was ready for the lift.
I made my list of what I wanted it to be and the parts I needed to get there, then I prioritized according to safety or urgent need. I wasn't ready to drop $1200 on a lift until I had the oil leaks taken care of and the front axle rebuilt and new tires.

So I waited. Since I knew exactly what I wanted, I was able to jump on an opportunity when another member installed a lift and decided he didn't like it. My needs were different than his and it was exactly what I wanted. I got it for a huge discount and timing was right. It still took another 18 months for me to get it installed because.of timing.

It took me about 8 hours in my driveway to replace the springs and shocks.

I had done longer brake lines long before because I needed to replace the lines and I knew what I needed eventually, so I did them at that time, do when the time came for the suspension, it was fast.
 
Hey AL I am in a similar boat but with less rust. I recently started repairing rust under my rear tail light when I saw my inner rear quarter panel on both sides are shot. I am considering cutting them out and trimming the bottom, does yours suffer from that regard? How do you plan to tackle the surface rust in the undercarriage?
 
Hey AL I am in a similar boat but with less rust. I recently started repairing rust under my rear tail light when I saw my inner rear quarter panel on both sides are shot. I am considering cutting them out and trimming the bottom, does yours suffer from that regard? How do you plan to tackle the surface rust in the undercarriage?

Yo led, a fellow NE'erner?
I have the same rust coming through the trunk floorpan near the wheel arch,.,.I dare not pull those rear lights,.,.I'm taking my mudflaps off in fear they will fly away one day,.,.love those suckers ,.,.trying to repaint logo on em! o_O

As far as dealing with rust,., I'm avoiding it and replacing panels instead as often as I can. Example 1 I'm buying that rear trunk hatch, mine is a near corpse, r.i.p. my rear wipers function lol I have a gaping hole below the spot where the wiper bolts in, and of course the spot under where the blade rests! Lol rust! Because rust

I hate to open a can of worms buuuut have u looked under your flares?...
I'm afraid...lmao
Actually I love the how the truck looks w AND w/out em! I'm torn,.,.but curiosity will probably get the better of me and I'll take em off and hoard them away on my top shelf!

Opinions!?!

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U will laugh at the end results...not even gonna post lmao

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Cry with me on this one guys, no emblems ,.,."send it" is right ,., damn

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