Builds Barn Find 1983 FJ45 Troopcarrier

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Cyclone is exactly its purpose, it works the same way a precleaner on a bulldozer or tractor works by swirling the inducted air forcing the foreign matter (dust' bees' grass seed) to the outside and downward where its caught in the collector
 
Cyclone.. the clean one is out of my FJ40LX 84' the other one is still covered with genuine aussie red dust from an 81' puck up. You can notice the difference the smooth top vs the late model ribbed enforcement.
@Honger - you can have the one with genuine dust :rofl: (no extra for the dust).
The clean one was like that before it got attacked with baking soda+water paste and rinse the hell out of that.

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Cyclone is exactly its purpose, it works the same way a precleaner on a bulldozer or tractor works by swirling the inducted air forcing the foreign matter (dust' bees' grass seed) to the outside and downward where its caught in the collector
I found foassiled bugs in the collector.. some biologist would love it. Maybe its made for Attenborough on his way across the atacama desert collecting the bug species while driving ..:steer:
 
Where is the closest port?

I will contact our ocean shipping agent in Estonia to get the ball rolling.:)



Oh, before you lock it in the container lose the blue spark plug wires.:p
 
Oh, the whole thing. I'm just working out the logistics ahead of time.:grinpimp:
 
Estonia is on the Baltic sea south of Finland and west of Russia.

We are in the US. The Expeditions7 shipping logistics were handled by an Estonian company and we have used them ever since for all our ocean vehicle shipping needs. They know us and we know them so we don't have to start over from scratch when we need a boat ride.

We just email Mike and tell him what we need picked up.:)
 
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And?:rofl:
 
You sure as hell can't drive her after you have made everything perfect plus. She is destined to be be in a museum for generations to lust after. We will let you store her here. Climate controlled, dry, secure and appreciated.:grinpimp:
 
Other than the blue sparkplug wires.:deadhorse:
 
Cyclone.. the clean one is out of my FJ40LX 84' the other one is still covered with genuine aussie red dust from an 81' puck up. You can notice the difference the smooth top vs the late model ribbed enforcement.
@Honger - you can have the one with genuine dust :rofl: (no extra for the dust).
The clean one was like that before it got attacked with baking soda+water paste and rinse the hell out of that.

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Wow, thanks a bunch man! PM coming your way. Fun!
 
Other than the blue sparkplug wires.:deadhorse:
i vote they stay :P other wise purists will have absolutely nothing to spends hours scrutinizing the vehicle for ;)
 
Progress with the rear heater pipes insulation thanks to @ginmtb and his post on the topic of the thin wall 1/2" insulation pipe at
Here is what I used just sprinkle some baby powder or similar inside to slide it on:

McMaster-Carr

I believe I got two lengths of it. Works great and looks like the old insulation. I'm assuming the diameter of your rear heater pipes are the same as my 74.

However I have a different method of installing these pipes.
I didn't wanted to introduce any foreign agent like talcum powder or grease that will eventually stay there forever and their impact on the insulation is yet to known.
Anyway, I've been experimenting with various things that includes compressed air and water. Air seemed to be a failure but water provided some excellent results.
I have employed the help of increased pressure expanding of the pipe.
Here is the trick how I did it. First take the metal pipe you want to insulate and make sure its clean inside. Once cleaned inside/outside plug (air-tight) the one end with a rubber or cork plug. Take your insulation pipe (uncut full length from McMaster-Carr) and begin inserting the pipe as far as 1". Don't force any further as yet!!
Now take a small funnel and carefully pour a small amount of tap water ie. 0.5L into the pipe. Make sure the pipe and the insulation are mate to hold that fluid weight.
Magic touch - once water is in, plug (air-tight) the insulation's open end.
Now very slowly apply some force and start pushing the insulation over the pipe. Make sure ( at least try keep) that the moving water within the wessel is at the meeting place of the insulation and the pipe. The water entering between the pipe and the foam hose will lubricate the insulation to slide on. Any given length you manage to slide on will compress (decrease) the volume within the vessel and create pressure. That pressure will slightly expand the insulation tube helping the process of sliding it on.
So the pysics again is that you have the water to lubricate and the plugs to create internal pressure to expand the hose over the pipe.
It will not go forever as the internal pressure after sliding on about 6-8" of the foam hose will blow the plug. But that is no problem, once that happens you refill the water if poured out and start the procedure again. I have released some pressure after each 5-6" went on so I didn't waited to blow the plug. There is an optimal pressure that expands the foam hose just enough to the water to flow between the hose and the pipe so you can feed the insulation with relatively zero friction or no resistance. Just keep an eye on the pressure that is building up within the vessel...

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The cotter key clamps ROCK!
 

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