bamachem's 2000 UZJ build thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bamachem
- Start date
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We don't have DT here in Alabama, unfortunately. .
Just picked it up. $430 and change was the total damage. About $95 of that just for the studs.
Verdict: WELL worth it.
The ride is superb. These are as quiet as I remember my old Michelin LTX's to be. I was expecting a STIFF ride with the Load Range E rating, but I am PLEASANTLY surprised that the ride feels very plush - maybe due to the increased sidewall height. I don't feel any appreciable power loss, and the rubber FINALLY fills up the fenderwells the way it's supposed to.
These are 33.1" tall tires on a NON-LIFTED cruiser. Amazing that they come with puny 30" michlins from the factory when this looks SO much better!
I'm ecstatic with them on the drive back from the tire shop, I'm very pleased with how Cooper handled this, and will know more about differences/performance after going hunting in north Mississippi in the coming weeks.
Sandwiched between the boss' Sequoia and a Scheduler's GS350.
Been waiting for someone to post something like this for quite a while, thanks! I've been very nervous about getting rid of my D rated tires for the larger, heavier, E rated tires. Didn't want to lose my plush ride...
But you say the ride is still very good with the E tires? No real noticeable difference?
- Thread starter
- #44
Lovin' the new tires... 60-miles so far and couldn't be happier...
Also, just got some pics in from Don at Dallas Custom Steering Wheel of my completed rebuild. 2-days as promised and my wheel is ready to ship. I will have it in-hand by Monday.
Also, just got some pics in from Don at Dallas Custom Steering Wheel of my completed rebuild. 2-days as promised and my wheel is ready to ship. I will have it in-hand by Monday.
FullyLitLED
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thats an awesome job on the wheel! Are those the ones in your group buy?
How are you liking the electric fan? Did you see an increase in MPG? How hard to wire up, and how does the thermostat control work?
- Thread starter
- #47
I really like it. ONLY time it kicks on in cooler weather is when I'm sitting and idling for a few minutes and the coolant temp kicks up.
I can't say that I saw a definitive increase in MPG, so it was probably just incremental. However, I did notice a nice increase in power response.
When the power bump from the electric fan is coupled with the deckplate airbox opening and the straight intake pipe, I have more power with my current 33" tires than what I had on a completely OEM setup.
I also saw a slight JUMP in MPG when going from 31" tires to the 33" tires. I'm using a GPS to watch my speed and driving the same style/speed as I was before. Doing so, my average MPG on the highways has gone up just a tad from about 15-ish to just under 16MPG. That makes sense as I have lowered my RPMs for any given speed. As long as the engine is producing enough torque to spin the rubber, then the throttle position doesn't really change much, but the RPMs go down, resulting in a lower overall fuel consumption.
I can't say that I saw a definitive increase in MPG, so it was probably just incremental. However, I did notice a nice increase in power response.
When the power bump from the electric fan is coupled with the deckplate airbox opening and the straight intake pipe, I have more power with my current 33" tires than what I had on a completely OEM setup.
I also saw a slight JUMP in MPG when going from 31" tires to the 33" tires. I'm using a GPS to watch my speed and driving the same style/speed as I was before. Doing so, my average MPG on the highways has gone up just a tad from about 15-ish to just under 16MPG. That makes sense as I have lowered my RPMs for any given speed. As long as the engine is producing enough torque to spin the rubber, then the throttle position doesn't really change much, but the RPMs go down, resulting in a lower overall fuel consumption.
- Thread starter
- #48
It's the one that's posted in the steering wheel thread - but it's not a group buy on them.
However, it's for a 2002+, so it didn't work for me. Don at DCSW has it now and would make a nice addition/compliment to anyone with a 2002+ LC, Tundra, or Sequoia...
- Thread starter
- #49
I now have ~1000 miles on the new tires. So far, I'm loving them. Got in some nasty stuff over in MS and they performed really well. Only noise is over 60-ish, and then they barely have a hum to them. Below that, and they're pretty much silent.
Did a little PM over the weekend, including changing the oil/filter (152K now :: Mix of M1 5W20 and RP 5W20 w/ a M1 209 filter like last time), and dropping the transmission pan to inspect the magnets, Followed THIS to see if I could adjust the shift firmness, and refill with M1 Syn Dex ATF. I had a tiny bit of metallic "dust" on the magnets in the bottom of the pan. Not bad at all. I cleaned them up, wiped out the pan and it looked like new. I cleaned the OEM RTV off with a plastic putty knife, cleaned with Acetone, then applied a nice bead of Blue RTV and re-installed.
With the pan off, my valve body looks exactly like this one.
Only problem is that my little round "knob" is not like this one... Mine was already on the left-most setting.
Looked under the hood for the transmission kick-down cable... I guess that's not on a 2000 UZJ either. On well...
Did a little PM over the weekend, including changing the oil/filter (152K now :: Mix of M1 5W20 and RP 5W20 w/ a M1 209 filter like last time), and dropping the transmission pan to inspect the magnets, Followed THIS to see if I could adjust the shift firmness, and refill with M1 Syn Dex ATF. I had a tiny bit of metallic "dust" on the magnets in the bottom of the pan. Not bad at all. I cleaned them up, wiped out the pan and it looked like new. I cleaned the OEM RTV off with a plastic putty knife, cleaned with Acetone, then applied a nice bead of Blue RTV and re-installed.
With the pan off, my valve body looks exactly like this one.
Only problem is that my little round "knob" is not like this one... Mine was already on the left-most setting.
Looked under the hood for the transmission kick-down cable... I guess that's not on a 2000 UZJ either. On well...
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Just checking in... I have developed huge CRACKS in the tread shoulder where the tread meets the sidewall in all 4 of my Zeon LTZ's. Pics will be posted soon... NOT GOOD! 1.5 years old and about 34,000 miles. Still have 6/32 of the original 14/32 of tread left too!
I got in the Hundy last night to go to the store - it's been sitting there since Friday afternoon. Anyway, had a flat. No biggie - probably picked up a nail in the tread. Aired it up and went 1.5-miles to the store. Came out in 3-min to find the tire half-flat. OH SCHIDT! Booked it home and the tire went flat as I turned in the neighborhood. Limped it home and changed it out w/ the spare in the garage.
It has HUGE cracks along the tread, both inside and outside edges. Cracks are in ALL FOUR tires!
I called Cooper and got a Customer Service Rep on the phone and then emailed them the pics. Cooper Zeons have a "premium" warranty for the life of the tire on defects. They will give me a new set 100% free, or I can get an adjustment/credit from the MSRP of these tires towards another set of Coopers.
Here's the pics... Not so sure I want another set of these - even though they have been wearing VERY well with no issues until now.
Do you happen to know the production date on the tires? Mine don't show any signs of this happening. Keeping a close eye on them though.
- Thread starter
- #52
Did some "clean-up" on the Hundy this afternoon and looked at the seat mechanism again to see if I can come up with a way to extend the front legroom by 1.5-2.0".
On the "clean-up", I pulled all 4 door panels, cleaned and lubed the window mechanism and tracks, zip tied and secured some of the cables and wires that were making some noise (rattles), and then decided to peel off the stick-on woodgrain from the window/lock control panel.
To peel the woodgrain, I turned the oven on 170 (lowest setting) and placed a piece of aluminum foil on the top rack. I would take each window/lock control panel out of the truck, remove the switches, and then place it in the oven for about 5-7 minutes to warm up. After removing from the oven, I used a plastic putty knife and slipped it under the woodgrain to peel it up. Doing this made quick work of the goo, and I wish I had done this w/ my center console...
After getting the wood off, I messed up on one by using some goo-gone to try to get the film off. BIG MISTAKE. The stuff began to melt the ABS plastic! I quickly wiped it off, but it left streaks/runs on the surface of the plastic.
Luckily, I had some 400-grit sandpaper and some spray paint that was a perfect match.
The paint is Valspar Camoflage "Camo Sand" Number 17039
[edit: another shot of the color-match on this]
This is a falt finish, and matches PERFECTLY with the interior tan color on the doors.
Since this one turned out so well, I went ahead and sanded/painted the other three so they all had the same feel/finish. I'm very happy with the results.
While I was working on the Hundy, I pulled the driver seat to see what might be done to gain some legroom. Here's a pic of the bottom of the seat.
The seat attaches to the upper-rail via a series of brackets and bolts that are very hard to get to. However, the upper and lower bracket are only connected via a pinion screw that only has a single mounting bolt (pic below). Unfortunately, this bolt is captive and I can't find any way to remove it. I believe the seat is assembled and then some of the parts are welded after assembly, making this a non-servicable item. However, I thought of one possibliity that I'm going to explore a little more.
If you take a thin (1/8" or 1/16" thick) cut-off wheel on a variable speed grinder, or even a handfull of cutting wheels on a dremel, you could cut a channel (yellow lines on the pics) and then slide the bolt back to the rearward hole. At that point, you could place the piece that you cut out back in it's slot and weld it in place. Doing so would move the reference point for the pinion screw back about 2" and give you that much more travel rearward, while sacrificing the same amount of forward motion.
I'm going to brainstorm on this a little more before taking a cutting wheel to my seat tracks, but this could end up being a feasible modification that should work very well. The only other alternative at this point would be to fabricate a set of custom seat brackets that would basically relocate the seat mounting points a couple inches rearward. This is another option that I am looking at.
One way or another, I'm going to get my legroom that I want...
On the "clean-up", I pulled all 4 door panels, cleaned and lubed the window mechanism and tracks, zip tied and secured some of the cables and wires that were making some noise (rattles), and then decided to peel off the stick-on woodgrain from the window/lock control panel.
To peel the woodgrain, I turned the oven on 170 (lowest setting) and placed a piece of aluminum foil on the top rack. I would take each window/lock control panel out of the truck, remove the switches, and then place it in the oven for about 5-7 minutes to warm up. After removing from the oven, I used a plastic putty knife and slipped it under the woodgrain to peel it up. Doing this made quick work of the goo, and I wish I had done this w/ my center console...
After getting the wood off, I messed up on one by using some goo-gone to try to get the film off. BIG MISTAKE. The stuff began to melt the ABS plastic! I quickly wiped it off, but it left streaks/runs on the surface of the plastic.
Luckily, I had some 400-grit sandpaper and some spray paint that was a perfect match.
The paint is Valspar Camoflage "Camo Sand" Number 17039
[edit: another shot of the color-match on this]
This is a falt finish, and matches PERFECTLY with the interior tan color on the doors.
Since this one turned out so well, I went ahead and sanded/painted the other three so they all had the same feel/finish. I'm very happy with the results.
While I was working on the Hundy, I pulled the driver seat to see what might be done to gain some legroom. Here's a pic of the bottom of the seat.
The seat attaches to the upper-rail via a series of brackets and bolts that are very hard to get to. However, the upper and lower bracket are only connected via a pinion screw that only has a single mounting bolt (pic below). Unfortunately, this bolt is captive and I can't find any way to remove it. I believe the seat is assembled and then some of the parts are welded after assembly, making this a non-servicable item. However, I thought of one possibliity that I'm going to explore a little more.
If you take a thin (1/8" or 1/16" thick) cut-off wheel on a variable speed grinder, or even a handfull of cutting wheels on a dremel, you could cut a channel (yellow lines on the pics) and then slide the bolt back to the rearward hole. At that point, you could place the piece that you cut out back in it's slot and weld it in place. Doing so would move the reference point for the pinion screw back about 2" and give you that much more travel rearward, while sacrificing the same amount of forward motion.
I'm going to brainstorm on this a little more before taking a cutting wheel to my seat tracks, but this could end up being a feasible modification that should work very well. The only other alternative at this point would be to fabricate a set of custom seat brackets that would basically relocate the seat mounting points a couple inches rearward. This is another option that I am looking at.
One way or another, I'm going to get my legroom that I want...
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Man, I am SO glad that you're willing to explore options like that for more legroom...my wife was just complaining about that very issue about an hour ago while at the grocery store. She is shorter than I am but is still very tall (5'10 - 6'0 depending on shoes ) and is all legs. She doesn't care for the lack of legroom at all, so if moving the reference bolt for the pinion would work, I'd certainly be willing to follow suit and give it a try.
Losing the forward travel is a non-issue in my case since I'm 6'3-ish, but others who are in the middle of the road on height might want to consider this a little further before chopping the seats.
Interested in seeing how this turns out...
) and is all legs. She doesn't care for the lack of legroom at all, so if moving the reference bolt for the pinion would work, I'd certainly be willing to follow suit and give it a try. Losing the forward travel is a non-issue in my case since I'm 6'3-ish, but others who are in the middle of the road on height might want to consider this a little further before chopping the seats.
Interested in seeing how this turns out...
- Thread starter
- #54
The crazy thing about the forward travel on these seats is that they will just about touch the lower dash panel in the foremost position. There's no feasible reason that I can see to have it move THAT far forward. Some of that could/should have been used for rearward movement!
I'll figure something out soon and post up the solution here...
This discussion blows me away. I wear 34x36 levi's and I my seat has room to move back more. How can you reach the wheel with it that far back? I do keep my seat pitch rear low/front high which gives a longer distance from hips to pedals (I like the feel of a bucket seat). I was always taught that your wrists should touch the wheel with your arms straight out and any further back and it's a reach. Maybe I just have t-rex arms...
Sorry to hijack your thread. The lack of wood/paint looks great!
Sorry to hijack your thread. The lack of wood/paint looks great!
- Thread starter
- #56
You have T-rex arms!
I have my seat adjusted like you but all the way back, and have an OK reach on the wheel. Problem is that my knees are at an awkward angle, causing me to have to shift around a lot to stay comfortable.
I have my seat adjusted like you but all the way back, and have an OK reach on the wheel. Problem is that my knees are at an awkward angle, causing me to have to shift around a lot to stay comfortable.
Exactly! I moved the seats all the way forward when I first bought it to vacuum the second row floorboards, and I was pretty surprised.
I guess those fiesty asians can be pretty tiny! Toyota designed accordingly, I guess.
- Thread starter
- #58
The power locks went nuts recently, which coincided with the CEL. They will unlock themselves at random intervals, with the driver side doing it 90% of the time, and if it does it twice, then all locks follow on the second hit.
I wasn't sure if it was the faulty ECU causing it or not, so I pulled the ECU fuse and it still did it. At that point I knew I was going to have to dig in. First place to start was the door lock on the driver side.
I pulled the door panel off and found this little guy laying in the bottom of the door cavity all alone....
Here's where it's supposed to be, on the lock cylinder:
Close-up:
Easy fix with a Zip Tie after you get it out:
Here's how you remove the cylinder:
And here's how you have to put it back in since the clip/sensor blocks one of the bolt heads.
Now everything's back to working like it should!
I wasn't sure if it was the faulty ECU causing it or not, so I pulled the ECU fuse and it still did it. At that point I knew I was going to have to dig in. First place to start was the door lock on the driver side.
I pulled the door panel off and found this little guy laying in the bottom of the door cavity all alone....
Here's where it's supposed to be, on the lock cylinder:
Close-up:
Easy fix with a Zip Tie after you get it out:
Here's how you remove the cylinder:
And here's how you have to put it back in since the clip/sensor blocks one of the bolt heads.
Now everything's back to working like it should!
