bamachem's 2000 UZJ build thread (1 Viewer)

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Should have done it last night. It would have unlocked itself for you! Seriously! Alarm wouldn't even go off... The driver door would randomly unlock itself between 10-seconds and 2 or 3 mintues NON-STOP. It's been doing that for 4 days now. It did it when driving, parked, truck running or truck off. Even did it when you locked it with the remote.

The little sensor had fallen down in the door, and it must have broken off last time I stuck the key in the door. The little dial in the center was spun all the way to one side, the unlock side, which tells the power locks to activate. When you stick the key in the door and hit the unlock side twice, then it unlocks all doors. THIS is the sensor that makes that happen...

All better now.

As far as that steering wheel goes, it's beyond words. I've got some new floor mats on the way, then next I'm focusing on is the leather. I either need to pull the seats and SPRAY them with the leatherique to get a better finish or just order some new lether. I want the new leather, but can't quite justify it just yet. I'm wondering if the middle row leather would even be worth anything on ebay. I know the front leather really wouldn't unless I did the re-spray and discolsed the refurb to the buyers. When I do it, one thing I MUST do is either replace the seat foam on the driver side. I think it's pretty much done.
 
Our keys work in the doors? I'm spoiled with the remote! :)

Did your 'free' replacement ECU/keys come in yet?
 
LOL - not quite "free", and not it's not in yet...
 
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Should have done it last night. It would have unlocked itself for you! Seriously! Alarm wouldn't even go off... The driver door would randomly unlock itself between 10-seconds and 2 or 3 mintues NON-STOP. It's been doing that for 4 days now. It did it when driving, parked, truck running or truck off. Even did it when you locked it with the remote.

The little sensor had fallen down in the door, and it must have broken off last time I stuck the key in the door. The little dial in the center was spun all the way to one side, the unlock side, which tells the power locks to activate. When you stick the key in the door and hit the unlock side twice, then it unlocks all doors. THIS is the sensor that makes that happen...

All better now.

As far as that steering wheel goes, it's beyond words. I've got some new floor mats on the way, then next I'm focusing on is the leather. I either need to pull the seats and SPRAY them with the leatherique to get a better finish or just order some new lether. I want the new leather, but can't quite justify it just yet. I'm wondering if the middle row leather would even be worth anything on ebay. I know the front leather really wouldn't unless I did the re-spray and discolsed the refurb to the buyers. When I do it, one thing I MUST do is either replace the seat foam on the driver side. I think it's pretty much done.


I've been thinking about replacing my front leather too. I'd like to use a good quality perforated leather with alcantra or similar side bolsters for grip (then I could get rid of the seat covers all together...) along with replacing, like you, the DS foam. If you do this please post up your results!
 
I've been thinking about replacing my front leather too. I'd like to use a good quality perforated leather with alcantra or similar side bolsters for grip (then I could get rid of the seat covers all together...) along with replacing, like you, the DS foam. If you do this please post up your results!

For me, I would like to have the perforated center section on the two front seats, but I think I'd skip the alacantra for wear issues.

I wonder if ATLAS1X can do perforated center sections for the fronts in his kits???
 
For me, I would like to have the perforated center section on the two front seats, but I think I'd skip the alacantra for wear issues.

I wonder if ATLAS1X can do perforated center sections for the fronts in his kits???

Ditto on the centers. I assumed, but not from experience, alcantra would be more durable than suede for the bolsters. Any recommendations for a grippier leather for the bolsters?

I've e-mailed and PM'd ATLAS1X but never got a response...
 
Well... not quite the $200 I was expecting. The shop is charging me $74/tire for the difference in sizing. Comes out to $323 with tax.

But wait, that's not all...

When removing the Driver-Rear wheel, THREE of the 5 lugs were cross-threaded from the last tire monkey that did a rotation for me.

One Toyota dealer has 1 stud and 3 nuts and the other Toyota dealer across town has 2 studs and 1 nut. Either way, to get at least 2 of the broken studs replaced, then they have to go to BOTH dealerships for the parts, so the tire shop is going to go ahead and replace 3. Since this shop wasn't the one who did the last tire rotation, then the cost is going to be tacked on to the bill. At $4.89 per stud and $12.79 per lug nut, all the driving around to pick up parts, and then the labor to pull the rear drum/rotor and R&R the studs, it's going to add another $100-$150 easily to that tab.

In all, I expect to spend around $475-$500, but a BIG part of that are the stupid cross-threaded lugs.

At any rate, a LT 33" set of tires for 18" wheels out the door including mounting and road-force balancing on a Hunter 9700 for that price is good enough for me considering that I would normally be out $1200 for all this...

that is f'ing not on. When i had my Monaro (Oz muscle car) years ago, i used to tell them "no rattle guns on the wheels"....and they'd go "yes of course, sir."...and i'd pick it up and you could see they used a gun. Same thing, when i got it home and had to remove a wheel for whatever reason, the thread had been cross threaded by the moron at last place i went to.
No more trade from me, and bad word of mouth by me too.

Word of mouth is such a big thing, and so many of these places just dont get it.
 
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LOL... That's not all. This shop - Fausak Tire - bad mouthed the previous shop for cross-threading the nuts on the wheels and said "If our guys did anything like that I'd have their ass".

Two weeks ago I went to change the rear brake pads. One lug on each side had been torqued so bad that they each bottomed out. One broke the stud coming off and the other one messed up the stud so bad that the threads were popping off half-way up the shaft.

I took it back to them last week, and they're making it right. They had to get Toyota to order the studs and nuts and should have them installed this week.

I warned them last time to NOT put an impact gun on the lugs and to use the OEM lug wrench or a socket. They obviously didn't listen. I bet they take it easy on them this time around...
 
thanks. gonna give the 80-series a go for a change. :D

found an aluminum TJM for it already, too!
 
Paul, just sent you a text.
 

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