Bad Driveshaft Damage

[Tools R Us]

Tools R Us - you can also get them re-tubed by a local drive shaft shop.

It looked like his damage was to the dust cover over the splines? They have never replaced that when I have had retube jobs done? For $20 I would just call Dan?

 

[NorCalDoug]

...It's not a DIY kind of thing so I'm reluctant to aggressively suggest it. Labor and liability in the States is hefty and it might be cheaper to buy a new shaft and install it. A new shaft is certainly the safest route and bound to be more reliable so if the savings isn't significant, I'd go with a new one...

Actually, the price isn't bad at all. I put a nice little bend in my rear driveshaft a couple years ago on a trail run. I had it retubed with a thicker tube, balanced, lubed, etc. All for under $90.

The cost of a new DS is significantly higher than that -- I was quoted around $450 at one place.

 

[alia176]

Curious, how much of the slip yoke is exposed after the lift and caster plate installed?

 

[ridgerunner]

Front drive shaft u joints are not supposed to be in phase on 80 Land Cruiser.

How does that work? Is one end a double cardan?

 

[cruiserdan]

Nope, conventional u-joints at both ends.

 

[CruisinGA]

Interesting.

I've been driving around town in 2wd since the incident, and must say it is definatly smoother than it has ever been-I guess I wrongly attributed this vibration to an out of phase d-shaft.

There was about an inch of clearance between the d-shaft and swaybar, I thought only an out-of phase or otherwise malfunctioning driveshaft would "wobble" that much. Guess I was wrong.

I will just make some drop blocks out of aluminum bar stock, how much clearance should I shoot for between the swaybar and d-shaft?

Looks like this lesson learned might not cost me as much as I feared.

Dan is getting a call as I type...

Raven- I would like some measurements, see pic below.

 

[MADDEN72]

Should the rear driveshaft be in phase?

 

[Rich]

Rear shaft is installed with u joints in phase. Front shaft installed with u joints out of phase. From the factory the rear transfer case output shaft is more or less parallel with the rear axle pinion. In contrast, the front transfer case output shaft and the front axle pinions are not parallel, they both point "upward from horizontal". I expect that this is why the front shaft is installed with the u joints out of phase.

 

[Josh83]

To drop my sway bar I cut the end links and sleeved them. I made them 2" longer with my lift of J springs and 20mm of packers. Slee's blocks he sells are 1.5".

 

[CruisinGA]

Hm.

I like the sleeving idea. If I can con someone with a welder to give me a hand, may go that route.

Some 1.5" aluminum blocks and longer bolts seem pretty easy though...

Thanks!

 

[RavenTai]

Raven- I would like some measurements, see pic below.

with the slip spline fully compressed:

7 & 1/4" to the first line
7 & 29/32" to the second

looking at the better pic you posted asuming it is shown fully compresses you lost at least an inch of travel.

 

[CruisinGA]

That's what I was afraid of. No 4wd until I get this taken care of-don't want any cracked tcase issues to result.

Looks like I am the owner of the only new Toyota spare slip yoke cover in North America

A simple R&R of this $15 part and I will be back on the rocks...

Thanks again!

 

[Safado]

make sure to mark it well when you pull it out so that you don't misalign the grooves when reinstalling. Ususally you mark the sleeve for proper reinsertion, you'll have to be creative now that you have to remove it.

Good Luck.

 

[Kalawang]

Hm.

I like the sleeving idea. If I can con someone with a welder to give me a hand, may go that route.

Some 1.5" aluminum blocks and longer bolts seem pretty easy though...

Thanks!

A word of warning.

Mine was done in a machine shop. I think it's a bad idea to try a DIY on this thing. I'm not even sure it's a fair idea in the States as driving speeds there are pretty high and the part is in too critical a place. I did do it to my own, but we normally drive at much lower speeds and can get away with much here. Plus, the place I had it done was used to doing things like that.

If you were only going to use it to climb rocks and such, I'd say go ahead and bring spares. A Dialy Drive is a whole different thing.


Kalawang

 

[Waggoner5]

Rear shaft is installed with u joints in phase. Front shaft installed with u joints out of phase. From the factory the rear transfer case output shaft is more or less parallel with the rear axle pinion. In contrast, the front transfer case output shaft and the front axle pinions are not parallel, they both point "upward from horizontal". I expect that this is why the front shaft is installed with the u joints out of phase.

Would this mean that with a front axle cut and turned, and a double cardan shaft on the front, that it should run in phase? I would think so.
G

 

[Safado]

my DC is stil out of phase.

 

[CruisinGA]

make sure to mark it well when you pull it out so that you don't misalign the grooves when reinstalling. Ususally you mark the sleeve for proper reinsertion, you'll have to be creative now that you have to remove it.

Good Luck.

It's already out of alignment. I'll just put it back in 90 out of phase and should be fine.

A word of warning.

I've been driving with one or no swaybars for several weeks now. Not really that bad. (unloaded heavy springs help a lot). So, I'm not too concerned about having swaybars.

Priced out some aluminum, looks like I can get it done with blocks pretty inexpensively, probably goin that route. Thanks!