Builds Back into an 80 - Australian Turbo FZJ80 build (1 Viewer)

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AussieHJCruza

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Joined
Jul 8, 2013
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61
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2,620
Location
New South Wales, Australia
Website
www.completecruisers.com.au
G'day Guys and Girls - it's been a couple of years, but back into an 80 series again! Tried a few other things and they just didn't tick the boxes, so here we are again.

If you don't like reading my ravings, no worries and totally understandable - there will be pics below...

1) The background - as the signature line might suggest, diesel has been the way I roll. But, clean HDJ80s here go for crazy money and as I have a daily, can't justify dropping close to 20k on a weekend toy, plus the mods etc. I had a 93 HDJ80 - Gturbo, intercooler, exhaust, fuel pump, airbox, clutch to cope etc, so that was making 154 and 580 rwkw and rwnm when I sold her. I got the fast car itch for a bit so sold the 80 and bought a WRX. Well, that didn't last long, so I sold that after a year or so and got a work rig, typically a 2017 Ford Ranger Wildtrak, or sometimes a VW Amarok V6. So, that was good for a while, but soon the 80 bug came back. So the hunt began.

2) So, since HDJ80s are expensive for what I want to do with it, and 1HZs are slow it was necessary to step into unexplored territory - petrol (Gasoline) powered cruisers. After a bit of research, it seemed that 1FZs seemed to take boost well, so seemed like forced induction was a good way to go. There aren't many turbo or blown 80s around these parts so had to be patient. Anyway, long story short, I just missed a green 95 with a well-executed 'home-made' setup on it - cast manifold from I think it was Turboglide, GT35, W2A intercooler etc, and lo and behold, Gumtree suggested another 80 which so happened to have a Safari Turbo kit on it. So, after having a look, I am now the owner of a 95 FZJ80.

So, where to start:

The truck as she sits is an Australian Market FZJ80 GXL so RHD, 1FZ-FE, H151, HF2A full-time case, 4.10 diffs, factory CDL and rear LSD, cloth seats, power windows, and so-on She's got a couple of mods already, namely:

2" lift - seems to be Lovell's springs and Koni shocks
TJM alloy roof rack
Custom made Herd alloy bullbar
3" exhaust from Safari
Snorkel


So, the plan is the following (And please, suggest things that I need to do while I'm at it or have forgotten in any of these steps.

I'm lucky to have a friend with a 2-post lift that is free on weekends so makes all this much easier.

Step 1: Baseline - Fluids, Spark plugs, leads, dissy cap and rotor, Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Oil Filter, possibly have injectors cleaned, maybe change fuel tank sock. She's done 192,000 km so pretty low, would be glad of any suggestions. Brakes as needed

Step 2: Cooling System - Belts and hoses, fan clutch mod, maybe a big aluminum radiator and maybe a water-pump. Seems the archillies heel of the 1FZ is the head gasket so need to keep her cool

Step 3: Deal with oil leaks - So she's got a few oil leaks. First ones I can see are rocker cover (Hopefully not HG) and a bit of dampness around the oil pan, plus either gearbox or transfer case - I'm thinking transfer

While I'm in the transfer, part-time kit to get rid of the driveline backlash

Step 4: The actual build.

Plans for this are up in the air a bit still but it's gonna be along the lines of:

Front and rear bar + sliders, front winch. Remove current roof rack and front bar - if anyone would like them please let me know. Would like a bit tighter barwork and a nice low roof rack.
3" lift - slinky or dobinsons probably, would like a reasonable remote resi shock
35s or 37s (Would like 37s but I don't want to regear so would be glad of everyone's opinion regarding if I'd need to regear considering the shorter first of the H151 vs A442/343)
17x9 rims, SCS F5 maybe or perhaps just 'Sunraysia' style steel wheels
A quantity of LED lighting on the front
See if I can find some Recaro or stratos front seats or similar
Rear drawers
New head unit and a bit of a sound system upgrade
Hopefully this itch doesn't bite, but Haltec S2000 or something, big injectors, more boost, smoke clutch so really expensive clutch, break driveline and so-on

Also, a certain part of me wants to remove the perfectly reasonable muffler and put in a chambered muffler (Lukey or something) or maybe a couple of hotdogs. I'm still young and like a bit of a bark. Suggestions here would be good too.

Pics to come soon (Yes, I know...this thread is worthless etc etc)
 
pictures or its not real
Can't seem to upload from my phone - I'll try again on the computer tomorrow morning.
 
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Pics or it didn't happen :flipoff2:

I get a chuckle at reading texts from an Aussie. Y'all have a cool way of saying things that we don't hear in the states!!
 
I don't think I would regear diffs. NA FZ-FE with H151 and 33s is perfect on road. With turbo, I don't think you'd have any trouble on 35s on road.
You might want to look at some low range reduction gears for 37s off road
 
Pics...

Front DS.jpg


front PS.jpg


3.jpg


2.jpg


Interior Front.jpg
 
And again...

I'm a few hundred km away from the truck at the moment so if anyone wants pics of anything please shout out and I'll get them mid-next week.

1_LI.jpg
 
Nice looking rig dude! I thought that petrol was stoooopid expensive for the long run. So, do vehicles equipped to run on petrol sell for less than diesel equipped vehicles?
 
I run a 6.0 and 35's with the 5 speed and its fine gearing wise on the hwy about 2200rpm from the OBD port. Also the reduction gears which are great. I dunno about NSW but here in Mexico 37's will have you pulled over faster than a 6.0 5 speed for a chat with Mr Plod.
Good luck with the build.
 
Nice looking rig dude! I thought that petrol was stoooopid expensive for the long run. So, do vehicles equipped to run on petrol sell for less than diesel equipped vehicles?
Thanks! Here, Turbo Diesel 80s are the desirable thing, and finding one with less than 400,000 km and for less than 20k is difficult. 1HZ trucks are cheaper but slooooow unless you turbo. Petrol cruisers are the cheapest cruisers around in Oz, because if you're doing a lot of Ks, the fuel economy of a diesel makes sense. Because this isn't a daily, the extra 10 grand for a HDJ80 is a heck of a lot of fuel for a truck that is gonna do less than 10,000 km per year.
 
I run a 6.0 and 35's with the 5 speed and its fine gearing wise on the hwy about 2200rpm from the OBD port. Also the reduction gears which are great. I dunno about NSW but here in Mexico 37's will have you pulled over faster than a 6.0 5 speed for a chat with Mr Plod.
Good luck with the build.
Thanks for the feedback.

Regarding 37s, yep probably the same here but the fine for 37s seems to be the same as 35s so...:D

The theory is, if I keep it as low as possible, hopefully won't get too much unwanted attention.
 
Thanks for the feedback.

Regarding 37s, yep probably the same here but the fine for 37s seems to be the same as 35s so...:D

The theory is, if I keep it as low as possible, hopefully won't get too much unwanted attention.

I reckon keep it low, and keep the tyres tucked in the guards, if the rest of the truck looks mild, you'll get away with it.
I ran 35s on a low, stock looking 105 series in NSW for ages with no unwanted attention
 
Excuse the dumb question... What tire sizes are you guys allowed to run down there?

It varies a little from state to state, and laws are heading guard a national standard.

generally we're allowed a maximum total vehicle height increase of 50mm, including suspension and tyres.
And allowed an increase in tyre size of 50mm over OEM. 33's are legal on a cruiser, 35's are not
Also, not allowed to increase track width, so wheel spacers, and large wheel offsets are not allowed either.
 
Wow, remind me never to move to Australia :eek:
 

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