Builds Back in a 40! - AussieHJCruza's HJ47 Build - now back to a frame-off (1 Viewer)

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AussieHJCruza

Supporting Vendor
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Threads
61
Messages
2,621
Location
New South Wales, Australia
Website
www.completecruisers.com.au
G'day 40 series crew,

Happy to say I'm back in a 40 series, gotta say although the 60s, 79 and 80s were fun, there's something about a 40 that nothing else has.

Having got a company car and no-longer needing a cruiser as a daily, started to get the 40 itch again, so obviously the best solution was to buy one.

So, without further ado, here we go. (the below is pretty long-winded...sorry!)

Our candidate is a 1982 HJ47 that my cuzzie @Indestructible 47 very kindly found for me.

When purchased, she was said to be a good runner, but didn't have the opportunity to hear her run before purchasing.

@Indestructible 47 Kindly picked the truck up, got a battery and got her fired up, but she blew a lot of smoke and had a noticable miss. Furthermore, idle speed seemed to be approx. 2000 rpm. Anyway, thanks to @Indestructible 47 for bringing her up and spending a weekend doing cruiser therapy, we got a knuckle rebuild done on his HDJ79 + a bit of work done on the 47.

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So far, the following has happened:

1) Air, oil and fuel filters + oil change
2) Drained fuel tank and refilled with fresh diesel and the suite of products from www.costeffective.com.au - I realise many consider such things to be snake oil and whilst I agree for the most part, I've found the cost effective products to do what they say on the bottle and that's enough for me.
3) Run a bottle of liqui-moly diesel purge plus through the system - filled new fuel filter and pulled the rest of the bottle from the feed line as per instructions.
4) Used the cost-effective oil flush - this stuff works! Having had good results previously with this product, gave the 2H the treatment. Dropped the old oil, refilled with clean, warmed the engine, added the flush and ran for 20 minutes at a fast idle, then drained and refilled oil and replaced filter. The second batch of oil was stain your fingers dirty after the flush.
5) Old sock replaced with genuine fuel cap

So, smoke is basically gone but I think the injector pump needs a diaphragm replaced, which I have one sitting here. Running on the diesel purge below...

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This build isn't going to happen overnight because I'm young and saving for a house, so funds aren't excessive, but anyway, the plan is a bit like this:

1) Tear truck apart
2) Blast and paint chassis
3) Whilst 2 is happening, get axles cleaned up and serviced, knuckle job etc.
4) Atlas 4" lift springs - I'd like to coil this truck with the kit that I believe @TRAIL TAILOR has in the works but I can't find an engineer that will sign off on it for me, so at this stage that option is on ice as I wouldn't be able to legally drive it on the road, notwithstanding the fact that I would struggle to get it registered in the first place. Asking a few more engineers because I don't see why it can't be done but I think I'm in the too hard basket
4) 315/75/16s, not sure on rims yet
5) 60 series disc front
6) Probably bilstein shocks

Once the rolling chassis is sorted, bodywork time. I haven't done much bodywork before but have access to a paint booth, decent sized compressor, welder, some sheet metal equipment so I figure I'll get the hang of it. She's not bad for rust, a couple of bubbles + surface on the roof, a few bubbles in the rear cab section and bonnet, but tub looks pretty clean, besides having a horrible PO roller applied paint job and several questionable past repairs.
I have sprayed paint before, high solids polyurethane in an industrial setting, but never painted a vehicle so this is all kinda new for me, but planning the following:

1) Strip to bare metal
2) Repairs as neccessary, cut and weld and hammer and dolly as applicable
3) Still unsure if I want to etch or epoxy prime, would appreciate advice on this
4) Lizard skin to firewall, bottom of tub, doors, roof
5) Single stage 2k 416 Dune Beige - factory colour

And last but not least, the go part! I have a HJ61 on the way to provide a 12HT and H55 swap, so looking forward to that.
1) Have an OEM gasket kit for the 12HT so planning on clean, compression test and replace all external gaskets
2) Get the 12HT in with new engine mounts etc. Trying to make this look like how mr Yota would do it so no pod filters or excessive pipework here, going to try and get the factory airbox connected to the turbo whilst keeping it on the factory side - I might have to lose one of the 12HT crossovers.
3) 3" dump and exhaust
4) Eventually, pump and injectors rebuild and Gturbo green wheel.

So, I don't have much idea what I'm doing but have a reasonable workshop with hoist and most tools, my time is free and I've been messing with cruisers for a while so...what could possibly go wrong....

And a few more pics
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Whoops!

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Not bad for a steel roof
 
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And a couple more pics

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Gotta look after that sticker!

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Under a couple of other horrible paint jobs, there's the 464
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Oil leak from the vacuum pump feed line
 
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So, it begins, no pics, but the fuel tank had an old sock as the cap which had to be addressed immediately - 77310-60100 for the diesel cap

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Also pleased to report that doing some digging with a chisel, the cracks you see are from someone being too lazy to use a hammer and dolly and instead filling some minor dents with bog.

I was planning to get the 12HT in and drive this thing for a bit, but the springs are sagged out, the 2H leaks like a sieve and the knuckles are leaking badly so I think it's gonna be a frame-off straight up - possibly not realistic but I'd like to have her back on the road by Christmas.
 
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Really looking forward to this build. Should be really tidy, @AussieHJCruza seems to have the same sickness as me, buying lots of genuine or high quality parts.

As @AussieHJCruza has said, I picked up this cruiser from a farm about an hour away from me. I took it back home and did a few small things before we decided that i needed to bring it the 900kms to @AussieHJCruza.

So on Thursday afternoon afternoon last week, I went and hired a trailer rated to 1200kg, loaded up the 40 and hit the road.
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The plan was to swag up for Thursday night about 3 hours from where we were going. As it started to get dark, I pulled off the main highway and onto another less used country road for the last 60ks to camp. Unfortunately I pretty quickly realised that the kangaroos were really thick through this area.

The kangaroos had been feeding on the grass which is unusual for them to have at this time of year. Because they had been feeding, they have energy but unfortunately no more brains. Not willing to be on the road longer than i had to be (was starting to feel tired) I was pushing 100km/h+ through to camp. Unfortunately, Skippy decided that it was a good idea to jump out in front of a moving vehicle...... needless to say I unfortunately hit 5 before I made it to camp. 3 of those went straight under the ute.

When i got to camp, I noticed that i could not turn left much at all, but we decided to cook steak and hit the hay.
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When we got up in the morning, a very unpleasant sight greeted us:
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Fortunately, damage to the ute was minimal. The bulbar was only 5mm out of straight and the radiator drip tray was broken. The steering was fine except we had to take off the steering damper because it was bend so bad that it wouldn't compress allowing me to turn left.

We stopped for fuel in town, grabbed a bacon and egg roll and continued into town, getting there at 11am without plowing through any more wildlife.

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The teardown begins
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Tenderized and ready for the Barbie!
 
Not much physical progress I'm afraid due to work things, have been doing a bit of parts ordering tho.

Got a terrain tamer knuckle kit, caliper rebuild kit, Excedy Safari Tuff clutch, DBA T2 slotted disc rotors and Bendix brake pads. Doesn't sound like much but the wallet is a little lighter!
 
Quite a large part of the puzzle has arrived
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Following this closely. You are using the hole front Fj60 RHD Axle in the swap?
Ive got an 82 Troopy ( see profile pic) that was imported from AUS. It needs a disc conversion something drastic. Apparently the rear is simple but the front can be a hodge podge of mini truck and OEM stuff. Im trying to assess the best way to do it.
Also looking to do P/S conversion, although it steers pretty well when moving
 
Following this closely. You are using the hole front Fj60 RHD Axle in the swap?
Ive got an 82 Troopy ( see profile pic) that was imported from AUS. It needs a disc conversion something drastic. Apparently the rear is simple but the front can be a hodge podge of mini truck and OEM stuff. Im trying to assess the best way to do it.
Also looking to do P/S conversion, although it steers pretty well when moving
I'm using knuckles out because I don't want to cut/weld on this chassis to outboard the springs like would be required if I was to keep the 60 series axle. (Besides, doubt I'd get it registered because I haven't found any vehicle engineers very co-operative so far on this project. )
 
I'm probably putting the cart before the horse a bit here but Yokohama Geolandar G003 came on sale here so I bought 4 in the 255/85r16 flavour. I can't find an engineer interested in helping me with coils, decent lift or anything so change of build plan and shooting for 2" springs, 2" extended shackles for a 3" lift which should look good with 255/85 on stock rims
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So, this coronavirus has changed things at work, so this build will take a bit different path for the foreseeable future. I've decided to hold off on the 12HT swap and frame off for the moment for a couple of reasons, firstly to give the budget a bit of a break and second because I've been able to get the 2H running quite nicely. So, now the plan is:
1) replace governor diaphragm - done
2) Suspension, I have ordered 2" springs, extended shackles from Superior Engineering and Bilstein 5100s from summit racing. The springs and shocks in it are absolute toast.
3) sort the wiring for the taillights and trailer harness which is terrible
4) a bit of wet sanding to clean the body up a bit
5) wheels and tyres
6) exhaust because the one on it has leaks and besides, a cruiser needs to be seen AND heard!

This should give me a reliable driver, albeit a bit slow and steady with the 2H but that never killed anybody.
Springs have arrived
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Wet sanding underway - still not looking great but it is coming off
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In other news, the busbar is getting 12v when the key is turned backwards so I've ordered glow plugs - hopefully that sorts the 2H's reluctance to cold starts
 
Slow progress today, more wet sanding plus got the heat shields off the exhaust so I could coat the manifold nuts in penetrating oil on preparation for headers. Also sprayed shackles, pins and U-Bolts.
Lastly, with the airbox out to pull the heat shields, not necessary but easier with it out, decided to paint it so gave it a round of degreaser, dish soap and a scrub and lastly a phosphoric acid rust converter in prep for satin black tomorrow
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A bit more - cleaned, rust converted, wire brushed, cleaned with acetone and primed. Not concours quality by any means but I think I've put the brakes on the rust for a while
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