Axle wrap bar for the front? (1 Viewer)

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Jun 30, 2008
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cheshire CT.
So i put new oem springs on the front, did the shackle reversal, moved everything forward 5in. Put 6in. shackles on for more articulation and took off the spring pack clamps for even more articulation. The droop im getting now is great and my wheels are almost always on the ground and im not feeling like im gonna tip over on every obstacle. Now Im getting so much axle wrap that my drive shaft drops right out. I am using the oem drive shaft that I lengthened, Going to order Woods drive shaft soon as i get the right measurements, I checked the diff wrap and it will bind on the ujoint with any skinny peddle. Has any one done an anti wrap bar for the front and have it work out, or is there something I'm missing? thanks Rick
 
I had one and it worked great. It was on an SOA front that was not cut and turned. The axle I have now is C&T and the anti-wrap bar hits the cross member I made so it's not currenty on. I was just under the cruiser today looking at how I was going to put it back on because without it the front springs don't last long. I have a Tom Woods drive shaft with something over 10" of spline travel so I don't pull the shaft apart.

Here's a link to the anti-wrap bar I installed.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/222772-heavy-duty-traction-bar-front-axle.html
 
Has any one done an anti wrap bar for the front and have it work out, or is there something I'm missing?

Lots of people have done it. Axle wrap tends to be more of a problem in the rear due to the circumstances of common wheeling situations. There isn't much of a difference, You do need to account for the axle swinging away from the frame side mount of the anti-wrap bar when the shackles are behind the axle....unless you are running the anti-wrap in front of the axle...I've seen similar setups before, some are pretty slick.

Put your spring clamps back on!

x 1357
 
My buddy I wheel with has one on the front, and it works good.

Mine: ever since going to 1-tons I get some pretty good wrap on my fronts. Even with the spring clamps on.
I'm in need of a wrap bar on the front as well. If I could afford it, I'd like to link it.
 
SR makes your axle move forward alot on droop. I get about 7" of slip in my driveshaft. Had to make a square driveshaft for the slip length
 
What's the point of a shackle reversal these days? A couple of inches of clearance in the front? Shackles in front seem to work just fine with soft springs.
 
What's the point of a shackle reversal these days? A couple of inches of clearance in the front? Shackles in front seem to work just fine with soft springs.

:hmm:

Approach angle? tired of inverting shackles and the resulting damage to the springs?...
 
Forget the axle wrap bar and 4 link the front. Kill two birds with one stone
 
Your spring clamps are your issue.

Articulation is not everything.
 
:hmm:

Approach angle? tired of inverting shackles and the resulting damage to the springs?...

I've never inverted a shackle. Probably because I have pretty flat springs on top of the axle and therefore do not need long shackles to help with articulation.
 
Big tires solve the approach angle issue as well.

It's awfully nice not having to go to a long travel DS..
 
Rick, take a pic of your pinion angle at rest with the truck weight on it, then another one at full droop
 
In response to the SR as to why...
I opted to do it for clearance reasons / departure angle. I know big meats will remedy this issue, but I like to keep a reasonable tire size (37 in).
However, it was a BITCH to get the geometry right and keep a tame steering arm angle too. This, while using fj60 springs and axles which I had to outboard the hangers.
Right now, I'm hoping that I don't regret the decision as tie rod is tight to the springs. I may need to get 4x4 labs steer arms if there is an issue.
 
u might have to cut and turn that front axle for better pinion angle,
 
older toyota pickups and 4 runners had them from the factory on the front that should give you an idea where to start.
 

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