Axle Pitfalls (2 Viewers)

[fj40charles]

I will have to shave the 14 bolt a lil' more this weekend since I am working on pinion seal (it leaks) and my rear driveshaft, which I broke.

My front axel it's bone stock and prolly the original internals since 1979, and it's a live, a lil' loosy on the gears, but works.

My alternatives are the ones mentioned above. What I understans is that all the options are not strong enough on a stock form.

All those options have to be upgraded in order to last longer, not to mention the weight added if the D60 goes under.

So how does the weight of the dana 60 compares to the FJ40 and FJ 60 axel?

I am planning of upgrading my tires to 40's or 39's

Domek,

I would replace the pinion yoke and go with some 1350 or larger ujoints on your driveshaft.

I would not worry about he weight of D60 in the front. I like the idea of having unsprung weight in the front.
I'm guessing the D60 will weigh around 500 lbs. Probably 2x the weight of Cruiser axle.

Charles

 

[Domek]

Domek,

I would replace the pinion yoke and go with some 1350 or larger ujoints on your driveshaft.

I would not worry about he weight of D60 in the front. I like the idea of having unsprung weight in the front.
I'm guessing the D60 will weigh around 500 lbs. Probably 2x the weight of Cruiser axle.

Charles

I am already doing the 1350 slip yoke on my rear d-shaft and I am working an idea for my front d-shaft too.

Some how I keep reading that the front axels of LC's does not break as much as the rear w/ the upgraded parts.

I really don't want my truck to be a heavy weight either, since I haul my junk for long ass trips just to wheel.

I am trying to keep all factors in mine, durabilty, weight, width, looks and available parts.

that's one of my dislikes about the Cruiser axels. down here there aren't many parts available in the parts store much less in the junkyard.

My truck looks funny right now w/ the wide ass and narrow front.

The D60 in my opinion is too heavy and expensive in a stock form, Once we get one, we need to upgrade to the HD stuff for them, not to mention making it fit under the truck.

I'll keep an eye on this thread

 

[fj40charles]

The D60 in my opinion is too heavy and expensive in a stock form, Once we get one, we need to upgrade to the HD stuff for them, not to mention making it fit under the truck.

I'll keep an eye on this thread

I think the cost will be close by the time you upgrade the inner/outer axles, hubs, knuckles, etc.,

Get a used D60 and go through it. Get some 4340 CrMo axles (Alloy USA or Yukons) and cut down the long side to make it about 65" wide (WMS to WMS).

Making it fit under the truck will be little problem if you don't have the equipment and/or fab skills.

Weight of the D60 is a non issue and should not be considered for decision making purposes IMHO.

Also, you could sell your FJ40 axles for around $500 to help pay for the D60.

What gears are you running in the 14 bolt?

 

[Domek]

I think the cost will be close by the time you upgrade the inner/outer axles, hubs, knuckles, etc.,

Get a used D60 and go through it. Get some 4340 CrMo axles (Alloy USA or Yukons) and cut down the long side to make it about 65" wide (WMS to WMS).

Making it fit under the truck will be little problem if you don't have the equipment and/or fab skills.

Weight of the D60 is a non issue and should not be considered for decision making purposes IMHO.

Also, you could sell your FJ40 axles for around $500 to help pay for the D60.

What gears are you running in the 14 bolt?

I got 4.10 since my truck stilland will be driven on the streets.
Some time next year I'll be buying lower gear for the axels or a t-case lo max 205 or an atlas depend on the $$$$

I am on the look out for D60, waiting for cheap one!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Bumping to the top.

I'm picking up a 14 bolt CandC rear tomorrow. Even If I don't end up using it, it's the right price and less than an hour away.

The thing that sold me on the 14 bolt is the extra pinion support. That's just old school Eaton stuff. Cool, can't wait.

This will be a good match with the 2009 Chevy 3/4 ton rear springs I just got.



Edit: Picked it up this morning. Not at all rusty, 4.10 gears open diff. WMS is 63 inches, can go to 67 with junk yard hubs. What a monster, though-550 pounds plus or minus. Pulled one hub apart - it's clean looking, gear oil (not water) present. The spindle/inner/flange/attachment bolts make the Cruiser stuff look like a joke. Tell me again why GM could not survive? They made great stuff at one time. This particular one is from 1988.

It fits in the back of an FJ62 without bottoming the springs in case anyone is wondering!

 

[mookie]

LC Wizard 3" extension sleeve in the mail for the front axle - has been suggested I mod a FJ60 axle - that will put me at around 62.50" give or take

instead of doing the wizard weld on sleeve, has anyone ever taken a 40 rear axle, cut off the flanges/bearings and welding knuckle balls to it? i've made some rough measurments and it seems like it would be about 8" wider....i'm getting ready to 4 link and tube out my front end and am thinking about doing this to get wider for a better shock angle and for stabitity.

currently i am running a 60 series rear axle with 2" wheel spacers which makes it about 62" a modded 40 rear should come out to about 63" i eventually will probably put a cut down 14 bolt in the rear when i use up all my spare axle shafts lol

i have 2 sets of 40/55 axles laying around to play with and no 60 or 80's is the main reason why i'm looking at this option

 

[locrwln1]

Bumping to the top.

I'm picking up a 14 bolt CandC rear tomorrow. Even If I don't end up using it, it's the right price and less than an hour away.

The thing that sold me on the 14 bolt is the extra pinion support. That's just old school Eaton stuff. Cool, can't wait.

This will be a good match with the 2009 Chevy 3/4 ton rear springs I just got.



Edit: Picked it up this morning. Not at all rusty, 4.10 gears open diff. WMS is 63 inches, can go to 67 with junk yard hubs. What a monster, though-550 pounds plus or minus. Pulled one hub apart - it's clean looking, gear oil (not water) present. The spindle/inner/flange/attachment bolts make the Cruiser stuff look like a joke. Tell me again why GM could not survive? They made great stuff at one time. This particular one is from 1988.

It fits in the back of an FJ62 without bottoming the springs in case anyone is wondering!

There are some shops on Pirate that are working on a "shave kit." It will have everything to complete a shave, bottom plate and diff-cover, etc.

Jack

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Bumping to the top.

I'm picking up a 14 bolt CandC rear tomorrow. Even If I don't end up using it, it's the right price and less than an hour away.

The thing that sold me on the 14 bolt is the extra pinion support. That's just old school Eaton stuff. Cool, can't wait.

This will be a good match with the 2009 Chevy 3/4 ton rear springs I just got.

Edit: Picked it up this morning. Not at all rusty, 4.10 gears open diff. WMS is 63 inches, can go to 67 with junk yard hubs. What a monster, though-550 pounds plus or minus. Pulled one hub apart - it's clean looking, gear oil (not water) present. The spindle/inner/flange/attachment bolts make the Cruiser stuff look like a joke. Tell me again why GM could not survive? They made great stuff at one time. This particular one is from 1988.

It fits in the back of an FJ62 without bottoming the springs in case anyone is wondering!

Are you planning on putting all of this under your 60? That's one hell of a setup.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Are you planning on putting all of this under your 60? That's one hell of a setup.

I was originally going to put it under the 40 in centered configuration. However, these things are cheap and plentiful and I doubt they will run out before I get back to the 40.

So, I am thinking hard about getting it under the 60. I am going to copy the work of Brenden (Fred's 40) in some manner and run it with an airlocker. Unfortunately, I'm working too much through the winter to make a lot of progress, so I'll have to run the current axles in the 60 (Polys + ARBs) for the 2010 wheeling season. Then next winter I could concentrate my efforts on the rear axle. We'll see.

Here is some good introductory reading:

Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive


The amount of time all the little steps take is what makes Boots4's build thread so impressive. It will easily take me the rest of the winter to get the springs under the 60 and the rear bumper built. Boots could get all of that and half a tranny rebuild done in a day.

 

[boots4]

The amount of time all the little steps take is what makes Boots4's build thread so impressive. It will easily take me the rest of the winter to get the springs under the 60 and the rear bumper built. Boots could get all of that and half a tranny rebuild done in a day.

You're funny. I wish I worked that fast.

 

[rusty_tlc]

... I am going to copy the work of Brenden (Fred's 40) in some manner and run it with an airlocker. ..

Even a bad copy of Brenden's rig would kick ass. In your case I know it will be as good or better than the original. I can't wait to see it.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

More progress.

There is a very cool axle shop in Auburn--WFO who narrows 14 bolts. Very nice guy Trevor, that owns the shop. It turns out, he has narrowed one that the guy ended up not using on his FJ40. So he suggested I call his customer rather than narrowing the one I have. He was right, the guy did not want it, or use it and I could have it for $150. (which is $75 cheaper than getting one narrowed). It runs 2 shortside shafts that moves the diff over 4 inches or so and will work fine in my 60. The WMS width is 61 inches. The axle came with disc brackets already welded on.

So anyway, I now have 2 14 bolts. A CnC axle that is centered and 63 inches wide, and an offset one that is 61 inches wide.

Taking everything apart, I learned that the Hubs, while basically the same, use slightly different internal parts. THe internal C clip is different, and the spindle lock nuts are different.

Found something else cool:

https://www.highangledriveline.com/order.php

Scroll down to the 14 bolt to Toyota Companion flange. Pricey but trick. I'll probably have to do that! Cheaper than a new driveshaft too.

I have a ton of other work to do on the 60 before spring, but I hope to have the 14 bolt in there sometime this summer.

 

[Sputnik40]

More progress.
There is a very cool axle shop in Auburn--WFO who narrows 14 bolts. Very nice guy Trevor, that owns the shop. It turns out, he has narrowed one that the guy ended up not using on his FJ40. So he suggested I call his customer rather than narrowing the one I have. He was right, the guy did not want it, or use it and I could have it for $150. (which is $75 cheaper than getting one narrowed).

That is a killer deal - damn lucky score.

 

[71-CRUISER]

Jesse at High Angle makes some super nice stuff. I have been running the same High Angle front shaft in my 40 for the last 5 years.

 

[Dusty]

What a find

Drew are you sure that is the pattern for your driveshaft? If so Id go that way. I had Tom Woods make me basicly the same thing for my Dana 70 and I run an oe yota 80 shaft. it has held up fine. I cant recomend Tom Woods for this job as he made me my part with 3/8" holes even after I sent him the actual oe drive shaft and told him i wanted metric holes that fit the flange perfect.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

What a find

Drew are you sure that is the pattern for your driveshaft? If so Id go that way. I had Tom Woods make me basicly the same thing for my Dana 70 and I run an oe yota 80 shaft. it has held up fine. I cant recomend Tom Woods for this job as he made me my part with 3/8" holes even after I sent him the actual oe drive shaft and told him i wanted metric holes that fit the flange perfect.

He said he would drill to whatever pattern you had. So in my case, I'm using the early FJ60 pattern. It's close enough that I can drive up there in an hour and make sure the drill pattern is correct.

I had the same issue with Warden's back in the day, drilling a new FJ40 flange. The holes just were not right. I finally got sick of it, pulled the flange and drilled it myself in my drill press. It's been perfect ever since. I think the original flange was drilled with a hand held drill!!!

This 14 bolt axle is weirdly, just what I needed.

I'm going to do the shade tree shave (not the superhardcore welding different materials shave)

Probably going to do an ARB in there, since the truck is already wired and plumbed for ARBs, and I love ARBs and have been using them in 3 trucks for almost 10 years. OTOH, I was thinking about a Detroit as well so I have 1 less thing to think about.

 

[rusty_tlc]

He said he would drill to whatever pattern you had. So in my case, I'm using the early FJ60 pattern. It's close enough that I can drive up there in an hour and make sure the drill pattern is correct.

I had the same issue with Warden's back in the day, drilling a new FJ40 flange. The holes just were not right. I finally got sick of it, pulled the flange and drilled it myself in my drill press. It's been perfect ever since. I think the original flange was drilled with a hand held drill!!!

This 14 bolt axle is weirdly, just what I needed.

I'm going to do the shade tree shave (not the superhardcore welding different materials shave)

Probably going to do an ARB in there, since the truck is already wired and plumbed for ARBs, and I love ARBs and have been using them in 3 trucks for almost 10 years. OTOH, I was thinking about a Detroit as well so I have 1 less thing to think about.

Jesse will get it right, even if he screws up he will make it right ASAP. He messed up on my last flange order but it was all cleared up in a day or so.

I still worry about what the shock loading from the Detroits is doing to the axles in my 60. You might want to think hard about that one. Aside from the bang when they unload and the odd behavior on the street I am unimpressed with how they work on loose side hill situations.

 

[Dusty]

He said he would drill to whatever pattern you had. So in my case, I'm using the early FJ60 pattern. It's close enough that I can drive up there in an hour and make sure the drill pattern is correct.

I had the same issue with Warden's back in the day, drilling a new FJ40 flange. The holes just were not right. I finally got sick of it, pulled the flange and drilled it myself in my drill press. It's been perfect ever since. I think the original flange was drilled with a hand held drill!!!

This 14 bolt axle is weirdly, just what I needed.

I'm going to do the shade tree shave (not the superhardcore welding different materials shave)

Probably going to do an ARB in there, since the truck is already wired and plumbed for ARBs, and I love ARBs and have been using them in 3 trucks for almost 10 years. OTOH, I was thinking about a Detroit as well so I have 1 less thing to think about.

arbs all the way. with huge tires and flex i hardly need lockers anyway

i shaved my 70 and pulled off an inch of lip. bolt your diff cover on and use it as a guide. make sure your diff cover doesnt hang below your shave job or u will leak after snagin the cover lip on the rocks and have to go back and trim the cover. im lovin the lube locker gaskets too

 

[freds40]

Nice score Andy. It's funny you mention Jess' 14 bolt to Toy flange. Mine just showed up today.

I have been running welded since I got the 14 bolt going and it has been working fine. I came across a screaming deal on a Detroit but before I even installed it I decided against it. I've wanted to run ARBs from the get go and couldn't convince myself that I'd be okay with the Detroit. I've run Detroits before and for just trail use they are great. For anything that hits the street I prefer an ARB.

I've since picked up a couple of ARBs. With any luck they'll be in in a couple of weeks.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Nice score Andy. It's funny you mention Jess' 14 bolt to Toy flange. Mine just showed up today.

I have been running welded since I got the 14 bolt going and it has been working fine. I came across a screaming deal on a Detroit but before I even installed it I decided against it. I've wanted to run ARBs from the get go and couldn't convince myself that I'd be okay with the Detroit. I've run Detroits before and for just trail use they are great. For anything that hits the street I prefer an ARB.

I've since picked up a couple of ARBs. With any luck they'll be in in a couple of weeks.

Still got the Detroit?


You up for modding another set of hubs to run 6 studs?


It's all your fault.