Builds Atwalz 2013 TLC 200 Build Thread. (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

tow hooks are overated nothing but trouble. Get 35's and a winch lol
Good work man love to see people fearlessly making things happen.
 
Got broken bolts out. No damage nut threads welded in the frame.

IMG_9987.JPG
IMG_9990.JPG
IMG_9992.JPG
 
Nice job. But how did you straighten it out? I see the brute force tools you had available, but curious how it all came together.

What will you bolt in there now?
 
Your a busy man atwalz 2 builds at once...great job! you make it look easy...
 
Nice job. But how did you straighten it out? I see the brute force tools you had available, but curious how it all came together.

What will you bolt in there now?


I stuck hitch square tubing in the bent Tundra tow hook as a leverage and strapped it on the other end and pulled it with my tundra in 4 low gear. Front cross member twist is now straight. One pictured below is an example using LC tow hook on driver side. Bent was on passenger side.

IMG_9986.JPG


IMG_9993.JPG
 
One more mod done today along with oil change service. Welded a plate to factory transmission pan skid.

IMG_9994.JPG
 
Test fitting 35" tires. They are 35x12.5x18 swapped from my Tundra. They are too wide and don't work with ride height I want. But in pictures it looks bad ass. Either option can work: a) Body lift along with trimming front body mount and some sort of fender flares or b) artic fender trim and flares or c) narrower tires and +25mm offset rim. I am not going that route at this time as it significantly impacts the daily drivebility on road. There is no rubbing on kdss bar as wheel +12mm offset takes care of that. I had truck on full droop in order to fully turn steering wheel.

IMG_0005.JPG
IMG_0007.JPG
IMG_0023.JPG
IMG_0025.JPG
IMG_0027.JPG
 
Last edited:
Another one . Admiring in my driveway before I switch it back to rock warrior.

IMG_0043.JPG
 
35s demand gearing, but fit with 50-60 mm offset wheels.
The spc arms can be used to push the wheels forward to clear the back if the wheel well and body mount.
20170321_115429.jpg


Admittedly, I specifically chose 11.50 inch width tires to keep rolling resistance lower and keep everything tucked up nice and tight.
 
FWIW your toyo mts measure 13.2 in width. Same reason i ditched the trail grapplers when i purchased new rubber.
A true 12.5-12.6 works fine for DD.
Lil rub a full lock. Looks great though

IMG_2382.PNG
 
but as you mentioned your wheel offset not the same as mine and you have an extra 1 1/2" extension on either front side which makes new contact points possible i guess.
 
Last week, driver side inside cv boot got busted and grease all over. Moral of the story is stay away from cheap axles, as I learned their cv design is weak. I installed the two new OE Tundra axles which is stronger by design and uses ball and cage.

IMG_0666.JPG
IMG_0668.JPG
IMG_0669.JPG
 
Those are off-the-shelf CVs? Just three roller bearings? Those look horrendously flimsy compared to the OEMs six ball cage design design.

I got them from ebay for ~$100 pair and lasted less than two months including one day of trail use. When I installed them I had a feeling it not going to last that long. I am glad they failed locally and not on a road trip or off-roading. I paid $760 for pair of OE CV axles at the local dealership. I also refreshed gear oil for transfer case and both diffs.
 
I got them from ebay for ~$100 pair and lasted less than two months including one day of trail use. When I installed them I had a feeling it not going to last that long. I am glad they failed locally and not on a road trip or off-roading. I paid $760 for pair of OE CV axles at the local dealership. I also refreshed gear oil for transfer case and both diffs.
I have all the parts in my garage to do the Tundra front end mod.... And as an FYI, you can buy "remanufactured" axles at the Toyota dealership as well. They charge a core fee, but are significantly less expensive than new. I want to say I paid $130 each after the core charge. I have a feeling they use Cardone (sp?) as the company that remanufactures them - so that could be another direct sourcing option as well. I am assuming that since they are purchased by the Toyota dealers - they are rebuilt to the factory specs - of course we all know what could happen when you assume.....
 
I have all the parts in my garage to do the Tundra front end mod.... And as an FYI, you can buy "remanufactured" axles at the Toyota dealership as well. They charge a core fee, but are significantly less expensive than new. I want to say I paid $130 each after the core charge. I have a feeling they use Cardone (sp?) as the company that remanufactures them - so that could be another direct sourcing option as well. I am assuming that since they are purchased by the Toyota dealers - they are rebuilt to the factory specs - of course we all know what could happen when you assume.....


I also assumed $100 pair of new axles were good. Nah.
 
I also assumed $100 pair of new axles were good. Nah.
Ha- yeah....live and learn, right? Like you said - you are lucky it happened near home/civilization!
 
Nitto trail grapplers are installed just in time for Moab and Breckenridge trip. I am going up in size 285/75r17 or 34/11.50r17. Alignment and trimming to follow tomorrow.
 
Nitto trail grapplers are installed just in time for Moab and Breckenridge trip. I am going up in size 285/75r17 or 34/11.50r17. Alignment and trimming to follow tomorrow.

FYI I had to trim a lot of front, even a small bit of bumper right at the bottom. back side of the front wheels required some "work" behind the plastic body panel where the mud flaps were. Tin snips and a hammer, then some heat to the plastic inner liner next to it. I'm on +25 offset
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom