- Thread starter
- #121
I don’t want to sound disrespectful but maybe you should research the engineering behind a wet belt. You sound like every other guy that doesn’t understand it because their buddy said it was a bad idea.
Attempting the next best engine swap for 80s IMO (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter Drewthecarguy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #123
Weird, everyone I talked to with small diesels loved them and had zero regrets. They all recommended to swap one. And said they were all super reliable. Thanks for you input
I think it's a very cool swap and can see the appeal for many. I could see a lot of interest if you could do this legally in California with full emissions intact.
That said, I've been in the deep end of 80 series diesel swaps for over 15 years and I've become planted in the "bigger is better" camp.
I want reliable, proven platforms that deliver MPG and smiles per gallon.
The raw numbers on the 3.0 Duramax look impressive, but I've not had a small turbodiesel blow my skirt up to date. They make power a lot different from a larger engine and performance options usually don't deliver the results I hoped for.
So I will be cautiously optimistic this could be a very cool swap for 80 series, but I won't be doing one anytime soon.
I am not a fan of timing chains and belts, especially at the rear of an engine. I feel it puts an engine in the disposable category. Chain guides do not last forever. Wet belts can last 200k miles. Or they can come apart much sooner. Especially the belt that you replace the original belt with as it doesn't have a legally binding performance guarantee with GM. Belts and plastic chain guides seem to degrade with time as much or moreso than miles. Just the nature of plastic things. Long term, it's unlikely these engines will be remembered as great. There's a chance though. I'll wait and see.
That said, I've been in the deep end of 80 series diesel swaps for over 15 years and I've become planted in the "bigger is better" camp.
I want reliable, proven platforms that deliver MPG and smiles per gallon.
The raw numbers on the 3.0 Duramax look impressive, but I've not had a small turbodiesel blow my skirt up to date. They make power a lot different from a larger engine and performance options usually don't deliver the results I hoped for.
So I will be cautiously optimistic this could be a very cool swap for 80 series, but I won't be doing one anytime soon.
I am not a fan of timing chains and belts, especially at the rear of an engine. I feel it puts an engine in the disposable category. Chain guides do not last forever. Wet belts can last 200k miles. Or they can come apart much sooner. Especially the belt that you replace the original belt with as it doesn't have a legally binding performance guarantee with GM. Belts and plastic chain guides seem to degrade with time as much or moreso than miles. Just the nature of plastic things. Long term, it's unlikely these engines will be remembered as great. There's a chance though. I'll wait and see.
I've heard a lot of praise for the 3.0. The wet belt is to be replaced every 100k. I've heard the fuel range and power delivery is really nice. I thought the gm 2.8 diesel had nice power delivery as well.
I was reading up on that wet belt. It's 150k on the LM2, and they extended it to 200k on the LZ0 (updated version of the engine), but the belt itself is the same part number. I mean, I'm coming from a 1FZ here... what's worse, drop the trans, or do a headgasket?
hopefully the wet belt holds up better on this one then the wet timing belt on the fords and euro Honda
Well you are!
I’ve read, seen in plenty of videos the problem with this engine.
I didn’t not say anything negative, just expressed an opinion.
If it works for you great, I’m impressed with your work, but if you can’t handle opinions then why post
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I'll be interested to hear your thoughts after you've driven it for a few months.
I really didn't like the 3.0V6 TDI/8 speed auto combo in the VW Amarok work truck I had previously. Other people love them
Power delivery and shift patterns were no comparison to the driving experience of a 4.2L Toyota diesel and 5 speed.
Come to think of it, the big lazy v8 & 4 speed auto in my '04 F150 is more satisfying to drive than the VW was.
I'll be interested to hear your thoughts after you've driven it for a few months.
I really didn't like the 3.0V6 TDI/8 speed auto combo in the VW Amarok work truck I had previously. Other people love them
Power delivery and shift patterns were no comparison to the driving experience of a 4.2L Toyota diesel and 5 speed.
Come to think of it, the big lazy v8 & 4 speed auto in my '04 F150 is more satisfying to drive than the VW was.
Interesting, I (Canadian) come from a 3FE 80 series that has a manual swap, in a kitted out (heavy) 80. I recently did a Cape York trip in a loaded and mildly tuned diesel 4JJ1 Colorado with a 5 speed. On paper, it blew the 3FE out of the water, and on the highway it did. Held hills and speed nicely, had enough power to pass road trains, averaged 13L/100km for the trip (including the Old Tele and 5 days on Fraser Island on the way back).
But man, the power delivery sucked. A soggy, gutless dog until the turbo came online, then pulled nicely until the low-3k range, then became thrashy and ran out of breath. Idling around in the bush sucked, if you were caught in the wrong gear you had nothing in reserve. Stalls were common enough, I would often have to spool the turbo against the clutch, and on one occasion there was a hill (paved) simply too steep for us to pull away on.
I expected to be drooling over the diesel, but I would have just about paid the premium in fuel to have even a 3FE for much of the trip (which was a surprise to me). The off-idle torque characteristics really do make all the difference in those kinds of driving situations.
Oh, and the 4JJ1 sh@t out a $500 MAF sensor and $300 water in fuel sensor during the trip, negating much of the fuel savings over a big displacement gasser anyway (assuming no failures, or at least cheaper ones).
I'd love for a small domestic (North American) diesel to be the "a-ha" swap, but for bush work I'm thinking that the big, lazy powerplants might be the better option. Also saw a surprising number of 2UZ, LS, and 1FZ powered rigs on the Tele and Fraser.
Keeping an open mind though!
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #132
This 3.0 LM2 makes 500lbs of torque at 1500rpm. That’s what is so nice about it compared to gas engines. With the LT1 I took out needs around 4500rpm to match the torque numbers. Which will probably never be seen on slow speed trails. Baja maybe a different story
The LM2 is also hooked to a smart auto with a bunch of gears as well, which keep it where it wants to be I'm sure. With a manual that 800-1500rpm range really matters. That's where I'm curious how these higher-strung 3.0 I6 diesels perform (LM2, M57, OM606) with a manual. Enough aftermarket support for an LM2 / H150F adaptor to be developed is a pipe dream anyway, so I'll pipe down.
Looking forward to the updates.
The is another issue here when offroading in the low gears. RPMs tend to go high when you are in first gear and engage the Low range on your transfer case.
This would place the diesel in the higher RPM power band where most often the torque drops off, but the gasser shines.
Just a thought to consider.
This would place the diesel in the higher RPM power band where most often the torque drops off, but the gasser shines.
Just a thought to consider.
- Thread starter
- #135
Don’t mean to argue but I have 10 gears to manually select from. So in theory I can be in any rpm range I want to be in in low range
I'm going to guess that the 10 speed auto has a manual shift mode allowing you to control those RPMs
I love diesels, modern diesels. I drove one for almost 10 years. It was awesome on the streets and highways. It had tons of power above 80 MPH where people think diesels die. It kept on pulling hard to redline.
My post above was meant to shed some light over the low RPM torque while being off road.
In low range and first gear the RPM won't stay low on any type of engine.
If one wants to take advantage of a 40:1 (or better) gear ratio, it will only happen while in first gear. Once you go to second or third that ratio will quickly drop.
Ha ha beat me to it !
I have a clean rust free locked 80 with a bad motor waiting for a new lease on life !
I thinking the LM2 10 speed could be the answer !
Is there going to be any kind of kit developed ?
And nice work !!
I have a clean rust free locked 80 with a bad motor waiting for a new lease on life !
I thinking the LM2 10 speed could be the answer !
Is there going to be any kind of kit developed ?
And nice work !!
- Thread starter
- #139
In a couple weeks after I design a better thermostat, I’d love to start installing these for guys, using torfabs adapter and my mounts
I am already making plans to have my car registered in Florida since I cannot have nice things in California.
