ARCHIVE ASAP Flaps for the 200 (1 Viewer)

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Any updates @FJRanger ??

Would love some feedback after a few weeks of running these.

Love them! So far there they've seen only gravel and pavement. Great pics @CharlieS

If I stay heathly, we're headed to Arrowhead over Thanksgiving and I'll hit a forest road two. Made another trip to the north end of the state again; worked a bit in the morning yesterday and said adios to the team... Got a text this morning with one of them saying the popped positive w/the Vid. Plus, probably 30% of the class we were instructing were coughing and sneezing. Hopefully, my two previous times with it have some left me with some immunity.
 
Got mine on today. Tears are good to go, fronts rub at full lock so I’ll be running the rear only. My running issue may be caused by my install, I need to run my stock flap to hide the expel seam. Idk if it pushes it out enough or not.

My priority was to keep mud off my camper so running only the rears will accomplish this. There are some fitment issues with my Dissent bumper but it’s not a deal breaker, I can run them when I need to, the ease of removal is a massive benefit.
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My rear mud flaps fit well with my dissent, but my dissent isn't contacting the rear crossmember, so that is probably different from vehicle to vehicle and install to install.

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The gap is just gravity doing its thing. Here it is with me lifting the lower part.
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I took a test drive today on dirt roads, and found that I get minor scuffing at full lock on the fronts. I have the front lower plastics removed and have done some previous plastic trimming. I'm running 34" BFG AT KO2 on ET 40 Evo Corse Dakar rims. I'm not concerned about the minor contact.

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Got mine on today. Tears are good to go, fronts rub at full lock so I’ll be running the rear only. My running issue may be caused by my install, I need to run my stock flap to hide the expel seam. Idk if it pushes it out enough or not.

My priority was to keep mud off my camper so running only the rears will accomplish this. There are some fitment issues with my Dissent bumper but it’s not a deal breaker, I can run them when I need to, the ease of removal is a massive benefit.
View attachment 3173767View attachment 3173768View attachment 3173770

There are some 1/4" spacers in the bag that you can put between the body and the bracket of that top rear bolt. That will bring the flap out more so it doesn't hit the bumper like that.
 
My rear mud flaps fit well with my dissent, but my dissent isn't contacting the rear crossmember, so that is probably different from vehicle to vehicle and install to install.

View attachment 3173774
The gap is just gravity doing its thing. Here it is with me lifting the lower part.
View attachment 3173775
I took a test drive today on dirt roads, and found that I get minor scuffing at full lock on the fronts. I have the front lower plastics removed and have done some previous plastic trimming. I'm running 34" BFG AT KO2 on ET 40 Evo Corse Dakar rims. I'm not concerned about the minor contact.

View attachment 3173778
It looks like my rear bumper is mounted slighted closer forward than yours. There’s enough wiggle room with a aftermarket bumper to make any mud flap impossible to fit flush or perfectly. I can tame my ocd with the fitment with the satisfaction of not having to scrap hardened Moab mud off my camper to get into the front storage compartments.
 
There are some 1/4" spacers in the bag that you can put between the body and the bracket of that top rear bolt. That will bring the flap out more so it doesn't hit the bumper like that.
Ah, good to know. I figured those were extras incase of some being lost in the future. I’ll shim it up better tomorrow
 
Ah, good to know. I figured those were extras incase of some being lost in the future. I’ll shim it up better tomorrow

Yeah, there should be a good bit of extra spacers and the longer two bolts go in that top spot. You should be able to get the bracket flush with the bumper in that spot so it doesn't bend like that over the bumper.

If you don't mind, can you post some shots when you fix it? Just want to make sure people see it installed as intended.
 
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@Ramathorn15 : Quick question: what is the best position for the little bolt that prevents the flap from coming off?

I'd ask in email, but the answer might help others.

In fairness, this may be in the instructions, but I don't have them handy...

After installing the flaps, I loosened mine and moved them so they made contact with the flap, so there isn't any potential for upward movement. But now I'm questioning myself after seeing the post above where it is higher in the slot. Pasted below for clarity.

What is the ideal position?

Here is @Artie pic from above, zeroed in on the bolt I am referencing:

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And a snapshot of how I did it:

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@Ramathorn15 : Quick question: what is the best position for the little bolt that prevents the flap from coming off?

I'd ask in email, but the answer might help others.

In fairness, this may be in the instructions, but I don't have them handy...

After installing the flaps, I loosened mine and moved them so they made contact with the flap, so there isn't any potential for upward movement. But now I'm questioning myself after seeing the post above where it is higher in the slot. Pasted below for clarity.

What is the ideal position?

Here is @Artie pic from above, zeroed in on the bolt I ma referencing:

View attachment 3174138
And a snapshot of how I did it:

View attachment 3174142

They should gentry rest against the flap when it's in place. That prevents pretty much any movement upwards. If they push too hard into the flap, it can make it difficult to get past when trying to remove them. Too loose and the flap may work past it and come loose.
 
Thanks for noticing! They're technically 5/32" but 4mm hex works perfectly. Had to go with SAE as metric extruded nuts were not an option. From there on, I tried my best to make sure they were easy to install for those of us who don't carry SAE tools.
Funny note - I have some really high quality allen head wrenches that are just a hair too tight to fit those fasteners, but the 4mm from my lower quality tool sets fit perfectly. Sometimes it pays to have some lower quality tools kicking around. lol
 
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I got my rear shimmed up and the fit is far better. Haven’t had time to fiddle with the fronts again… I’ll get around to those at some time tho.
 
I got my rear shimmed up and the fit is far better. Haven’t had time to fiddle with the fronts again… I’ll get around to those at some time tho.

Can you post a pic when you get a chance? I'd also like to see the reason you're keeping the stock front flap on as well? I'm not familiar with expel, so I'm not sure what seam you were referring to.
 
Can you post a pic when you get a chance? I'd also like to see the reason you're keeping the stock front flap on as well? I'm not familiar with expel, so I'm not sure what seam you were referring to.

When I had my vehicle wrapped with Expel PPF they trimmed around the front mud flap versus removing the mud flap and applying the film then reinstalling the mud flap. This is something that, if at the time, if I had requested them remove the flap and apply the film they would have done so. However, at that time I didn’t have plans on ever removing the front flaps so I didn’t think to ask.

You can clearly see the seam in the picture below. I know… this is a tad bit ridiculous… and it may not bother me in a few years. Unfortunately, I’m the type to obsess over the lamest stuff and I’d likely look at this spot every time I approach the vehicle.

I believe if I take your advance and bend back the bracket more I could probably get enough clearance. My only concern is a situation where mud is caked on and dried which would allow the tire enough bite that it could cause the flap to lift and remove itself.

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Like with any part put on a customized vehicle, some tweaks were in order. I pulled the front brackets, put them in my bench vice, and gently bent them so there will be additional clearance. This should do the job.

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A little bit of heat and a body dolly made a little room to adjust the plastic wheel liners to allow more angle.
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Oh, and I'm sure there are lots of tools that would get the job done, but I find this little tool handy to fit tight spaces. It allowed me to install these brackets without messing with wheel removal.

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Oh, and I'm sure there are lots of tools that would get the job done, but I find this little tool handy to fit tight spaces. It allowed me to install these brackets without messing with wheel removal.

View attachment 3175275
I pulled the rears but not the fronts, I needed to check my LRA breather filter and that’s easier without the tire in the way.

Those but drivers are very handy.
 
Like with any part put on a customized vehicle, some tweaks were in order. I pulled the front brackets, put them in my bench vice, and gently bent them so there will be additional clearance. This should do the job.

View attachment 3175269View attachment 3175270View attachment 3175271View attachment 3175272
A little bit of heat and a body dolly made a little room to adjust the plastic wheel liners to allow more angle.
View attachment 3175273

Looks great! Thanks for sharing. Hopefully that eliminates any rubbing. This "mod" what the 100 series crowd does and I did on my personal truck. Mine clears 35s nicely.
 
When I had my vehicle wrapped with Expel PPF they trimmed around the front mud flap versus removing the mud flap and applying the film then reinstalling the mud flap. This is something that, if at the time, if I had requested them remove the flap and apply the film they would have done so. However, at that time I didn’t have plans on ever removing the front flaps so I didn’t think to ask.

You can clearly see the seam in the picture below. I know… this is a tad bit ridiculous… and it may not bother me in a few years. Unfortunately, I’m the type to obsess over the lamest stuff and I’d likely look at this spot every time I approach the vehicle.

I believe if I take your advance and bend back the bracket more I could probably get enough clearance. My only concern is a situation where mud is caked on and dried which would allow the tire enough bite that it could cause the flap to lift and remove itself.

View attachment 3174296

I wouldn't worry about mud caking. I've been through the worst of the worst with mine and have never had an issue. They stay put really well.

As for the seam. Would you be open to putting maybe some black vinyl over it? Could look similar to the profile of the stock flap, but cover the seam, offer protection, and allow you to scrap the stocks to make more space for the ASAPs.
 

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