Are all 80's this loud (1 Viewer)

[jamisobe]

I was debating between 4.88s and 5.29s, but after running 35s on stock gears for a while, making engine mods, and talking to some others who have switched my thoughts have changed. When I finally break for gears they will either be 4.56s or 4.88s. I have never seemed to need any more gear off road then what I currently have (maybe I will get more hardcore someday?) and the truck has been running great on stock gears with 35s. Still, I think i have some untapped on road performance due to having 35s on stock gears. I'll probably go with 4.88s, but 4.56s would get the truck drive ratio back to original and that might actually be the best ticket for me since I use it on road 98% of the time. Either way I will be looking into this:
Surface Enhancement: The Mikronite Process - Gear Solutions Magazine

Mikronite Surface Treatment For Power - Car Craft Magazine

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

I was debating between 4.88s and 5.29s, but after running 35s on stock gears for a while, making engine mods, and talking to some others who have switched my thoughts have changed. When I finally break for gears they will either be 4.56s or 4.88s. I have never seemed to need any more gear off road then what I currently have (maybe I will get more hardcore someday?) and the truck has been running great on stock gears with 35s. Still, I think i have some untapped on road performance due to having 35s on stock gears. I'll probably go with 4.88s, but 4.56s would get the truck drive ratio back to original and that might actually be the best ticket for me since I use it on road 98% of the time. Either way I will be looking into this:
Surface Enhancement: The Mikronite Process - Gear Solutions Magazine

Mikronite Surface Treatment For Power - Car Craft Magazine

Thanks for your input. I plan to go with 37's at my next tire change and 5.29's seem to be the way to go at that size. I had originally planned on the 4.88's with 35's too but now I want to go bigger. Over compensating I guess. The main problem is I have to drive the 33's I currently have until they wear out. And with a bit of luck come august I won't have to DD this rig any more as I plan to get a civc or prelude or something to drive to work. What I want to know is how the truck's going to react to being insanely over geared for a little while. Like I said I don't ever really need to go faster than 60 at the moment. My major upgrades will be done in this order, Regear (number 1 because I have to get the pinion bearing fixed, this would be number 3 otherwise), Lift (2 inch body-6 inch suspension), Tires (37-38). After that will come bumpers and all the other stuff. The 2 inch body lift may be a little over kill and it may end up being just an inch. I mainly need some extra room between the frame and body to reroute the exhaust and to raise my cats above the frame line. I don't plan to do the drive line lift. I can get all of this done probably in the next 6 months or so. So the question still remains, 33's and 5.29's, what's the worse that could happen?

 

[jamisobe]

Thanks for your input. I plan to go with 37's at my next tire change and 5.29's seem to be the way to go at that size. I had originally planned on the 4.88's with 35's too but now I want to go bigger. Over compensating I guess. The main problem is I have to drive the 33's I currently have until they wear out. And with a bit of luck come august I won't have to DD this rig any more as I plan to get a civc or prelude or something to drive to work. What I want to know is how the truck's going to react to being insanely over geared for a little while. Like I said I don't ever really need to go faster than 60 at the moment. My major upgrades will be done in this order, Regear (number 1 because I have to get the pinion bearing fixed, this would be number 3 otherwise), Lift (2 inch body-6 inch suspension), Tires (37-38). After that will come bumpers and all the other stuff. The 2 inch body lift may be a little over kill and it may end up being just an inch. I mainly need some extra room between the frame and body to reroute the exhaust and to raise my cats above the frame line. I don't plan to do the drive line lift. I can get all of this done probably in the next 6 months or so. So the question still remains, 33's and 5.29's, what's the worse that could happen?

Go for it! I put 33s on my truck with the stock suspension and I kept them for 2 years after I lifted until they wore out. I also added a speedo correction computer with the 33s to keep the ECU thinking right so it managed my engine correctly. When I added 35s it was simple enough to recalibrate the computer to keep everything working right.

BTW, I have 3" mandrel stainless exhaust over the frame without a body lift. Google EMS Powered if you are looking for a mandrel exhaust that will go over the frame with or without a body lift. They will do any cat combo you want.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

Go for it! I put 33s on my truck with the stock suspension and I kept them for 2 years after I lifted until they wore out. I also added a speedo correction computer with the 33s to keep the ECU thinking right so it managed my engine correctly. When I added 35s it was simple enough to recalibrate the computer to keep everything working right.

BTW, I have 3" mandrel stainless exhaust over the frame without a body lift. Google EMS Powered if you are looking for a mandrel exhaust that will go over the frame with or without a body lift. They will do any cat combo you want.

I've heard that EMS has trouble getting product out. They are pretty expensive too. Is that what you have? And being in California I have to have the right cats. I found a guy willing to do it but he says there there may be a heat problem on the PS floor boards. So you think it'll be ok to run 5.29's with the 33's for a few months?

 

[jamisobe]

I've heard that EMS has trouble getting product out. They are pretty expensive too. Is that what you have? And being in California I have to have the right cats. I found a guy willing to do it but he says there there may be a heat problem on the PS floor boards. So you think it'll be ok to run 5.29's with the 33's for a few months?

If you actually talk to EMS they will tell you how long it will be before you order. I have been looking years for someone that will do professional quality, MANDREL bends over the frame. I had it over the frame before, but not like they do it. Crush bend steel robs power and radiates heat. Those guys do it right and yes, they did it for me custom in 3". Stainless eliminates the heat issue (never had an issue with heat over the frame anyway) since it holds the heat in so well. I say spend a little more and be prepared to wait a couple of weeks if necessary. The exhaust will be on your truck for a long time (forever if it's stainless).

Personally, I would make sure the exhaust is done right and buy a speedo computer and get it hooked up. I would probably spend my money on the lift (suspension lift for me. If I did the body it would be 1" at the most) before the gears. Maybe your 33s will be ready to come off by then? 5.29s are a lot of gear for 33s and I definitely wouldn't do it without the speedo computer. If I did I would be switching to bigger tires much sooner rather than later. But then again, I am happy on 35s with my stock gears right now. Eventually I will regear.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

Job is done finally. It was quite an adventure. I decided to save the regear for when I get tires. This actually a pretty easy job when you have the right parts and tools. Thanks to Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters for coming through in a pinch. I am officially Aussie Locked and back to a stock ring and pinion set in my rig. Pretty funny when I opened the rear end someone had already worked on it before. All of the bearings where National and I had koyo on the carrier and pinion that I'd received. Also the last people to work on it WELDED the pin inside of the carrier. Thanks to everyone that helped me with this and now the only sounds I hear on the highway are tires and wind.

 

[snakeman]

now the only sounds I hear on the highway are tires and wind.

Awesome. That's the only way it should be!

Did you have to replace the carrier?

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

They guy I ordered the Aussie from sent it installed in a carrier with his stock ring and pinion. I just reused all his set up with an install kit from Cruiser Outfitters. I also needed the nuts and bolts to attach the ring gear to the carrier so I pulled those off the old one. Once we had all the right parts and everything it only took two hours to put it all together and another 30 to install it back on the cruiser. Next I have to figure out what is binding my driveline in turns. I think I may have a seized VC or my diff isn't fully unlocking. I'm leaning towards the VC though. After this work trip I'll be tearing into my t-case to check it out.

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