Anyone recognize this 80 (1 Viewer)

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When I bought the rig it had no parking brake handle, so I sourced a used one along with a parking brake cable. The parking brake actuators were badly rusted and I bought new parts. This morning I dug into the driver side rear brakes. Pulled the rotor and there are no parking brake parts inside the hat. Add that to the list of parts needed.

I did replace the rotor, caliper, pads (dumping the cheapy O'Reilly pads), and soft line.

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Wrapped up the brakes and bled the system but have air in the lines somewhere. So, more bleeding to come.

Plugging away at other items.

Pulled the TJM bumper and Superwinch. Next up will be replacing the radiator, hoses, and vacuum lines, etc. under the upper intake.

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Today was pulling out cheap radiator and all the blue silicone heater hoses, and as long as I'm in that far I'll be replacing the crank seal. I was also planning on doing the oil pump cover seal but it's already been done. I was still going to do it but 5 of the allen head bolts stripped so I retorqued to two that did loosen. If the cover leaks in the future I go back in and drill out the bolts.

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Someone had also routed a long small water line, from near the water pump, around the front of the engine to a pipe near the PHH; bypass hose? I'm going to correct that with the proper length of hard line. Some shop in CO by the name of Nomad Cruisers did a head job on this 80. With what I'm finding from their work I cannot recommend them.

The engine runs like it has a vacuum leak at idle and since I had a spare intake I decided to clean up the spare throttle body and refresh all the vacuum lines and other hoses under the intake. Removed the upper intake today. I know it's going to be a pain reinstalling with the rear bolts difficult to access.

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Heater control valve was replaced, the old one was frozen.

Small injury but first good blood letting while working on this Cruiser. A major step toward bonding with it :lol: . I've often said that the most important material holding my Cruisers together has been my blood.

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You should go ahead and delete the ABS and LSPV

ABS is gone, LSPV will be next. Also ripped out the cruiser control module since cruise wasn't working.

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I'm in deep correcting sloppy work by a shop that worked on it a couple of years ago. One item was to replace the bypass hardline that routes around the front of the engine. Easy enough with the distributor out, and I had the dizzy out to replace the O-ring on the shaft.

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I'm also replacing the bolts on the lower intake since the shop that worked on it a couple of years ago did a sloppy job allowing for a massive vacuum leak. I want to pull the ECU harness through the firewall and pass the wiring down through the lower intake but an having a lot trouble splitting a wiring connector. I cannot see how to release any tabs to pull the halves apart. I think there is one more smaller connector above this one that needs to also be separated. I'm not sure how deep I'm going to have to dig under the dash the free the wiring harness. I did this a few years ago doing an engine swap on our other 80 and I don't recall these steps being that difficult.

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Wiring harness has been pulled through the firewall and lower intake removed. One item I wanted to deal with was the long small hose routed around the front of the engine. In this photo you can see where it connects to the side of the head; has the yellow tab on the hose clamp. It's now out.

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The inner fuel filter mount bolt was a tough also. I could not get a good fit of the socket on it and it began to round. It's now been taken care of. New filter will have the inner mount slotted for future ease (ha!) of replacement when needed.

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Also have something going on with the AC and oil sending unit sub-harness. The wiring to the oil sender is not connected and the ground wire is broken. Also a wire on the rear of the AC compressor is looped together.

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I'm waiting on an order from Serra Toyota and once I have that things will start going back together.
 
Today was pulling out cheap radiator and all the blue silicone heater hoses, and as long as I'm in that far I'll be replacing the crank seal. I was also planning on doing the oil pump cover seal but it's already been done. I was still going to do it but 5 of the allen head bolts stripped so I retorqued to two that did loosen. If the cover leaks in the future I go back in and drill out the bolts.

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Someone had also routed a long small water line, from near the water pump, around the front of the engine to a pipe near the PHH; bypass hose? I'm going to correct that with the proper length of hard line. Some shop in CO by the name of Nomad Cruisers did a head job on this 80. With what I'm finding from their work I cannot recommend them.

The engine runs like it has a vacuum leak at idle and since I had a spare intake I decided to clean up the spare throttle body and refresh all the vacuum lines and other hoses under the intake. Removed the upper intake today. I know it's going to be a pain reinstalling with the rear bolts difficult to access.

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Heater control valve was replaced, the old one was frozen.

Small injury but first good blood letting while working on this Cruiser. A major step toward bonding with it :lol: . I've often said that the most important material holding my Cruisers together has been my blood.

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Went through all of that recently, but she still ran like there was a vacuum leak. Pulled the throttle body (yet again) and tested the tps and aicv. Both were out of FSM spec. New o-ring and aicv and a new tps… unplugged the battery, let the ecu reset, hooked it back up…and the idle/throttle issues cleared up. Idles right where it’s supposed to now, and it accelerates without any hesitation. While you're in there…
 
Since this had a head gasket replacement and I don't know the history of the issue I'm replacing cooling system items that could have contributed. Today was the thermostat. The upper rear nut hides behind a heat shield, or did until I notched the corner of the shield.

Once I pulled off the thermostat housing neck I found a torn rubber cap inside. ???? What sort of clownage allowed this to happen? That's been rectified and leads me to wonder if the cap impeded water flowing leading to overheating and the head gasket blowing.

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That TJM bumper is pretty cool. It looks like it is built similar to my commercial version arb bumper which allows you to bolt up an 8274 winch if you wanted to. The extra bolt holes above your fairlead and the center cross tub that is bent to extend forward instead of go strait across is what makes me think this.

I have not seen very many bumpers for the 80 like this.
 
That TJM bumper is pretty cool. It looks like it is built similar to my commercial version arb bumper which allows you to bolt up an 8274 winch if you wanted to. The extra bolt holes above your fairlead and the center cross tub that is bent to extend forward instead of go strait across is what makes me think this.

I have not seen very many bumpers for the 80 like this.

I've been watching for a good affordable 8274 to put on this 80. If the Superwinch works well I may leave it on, or pull the 8274 off the 40 since it's hardly driven.
 
Since this had a head gasket replacement and I don't know the history of the issue I'm replacing cooling system items that could have contributed. Today was the thermostat. The upper rear nut hides behind a heat shield, or did until I notched the corner of the shield.

Once I pulled off the thermostat housing neck I found a torn rubber cap inside. ???? What sort of clownage allowed this to happen? That's been rectified and leads me to wonder if the cap impeded water flowing leading to overheating and the head gasket blowing.

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What’s up with the plastic cap? Did it have holes in it? Was there a thermo stat in there as well? Crazy.
 
I have an 8274 I am selling for $1000 if your interested send me a pm.
 

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