i guess that was more what my question was, how did you tap into ignition and acc for illumination?
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I was thinking about this, and believe the heat already in the compressor from sitting in the hot closed engine bay is a big problem. Yes fresh air being ingested would help but if it’s already sitting at 150F before even running it.. that cool air is only going to go so far if it has to make pressure right away.ARB compressors have quite a few reported long-term failures, and as I understand it, the consensus is that they primarily fail due to overheating. I open up my hood when using my ARB twin. Additionally, by opening the hood you're letting the hot air in the engine bay escape, and are allowing the compressor to suck in slightly cooler air than you would otherwise. Seems like wins all around IMO.
There are circuits for both of those options in the fuse block. I used a fuse tap for both.i guess that was more what my question was, how did you tap into ignition and acc for illumination?
On both my ‘13 and ‘16 (so I assume all 200 years) the IGN fuse position is only hot when the ignition is on. I used a product called Add-a-Fuse to grab that power source. I don’t have experience tapping into an ACC source.i guess that was more what my question was, how did you tap into ignition and acc for illumination?
Cool, just bought some of those Add-a-Fuse units this morning. Thanks for the pic.On both my ‘13 and ‘16 (so I assume all 200 years) the IGN fuse position is only hot when the ignition is on. I used a product called Add-a-Fuse to grab that power source. I don’t have experience tapping into an ACC source.
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I tapped into the 12volt from the 12volt port in the center console and tapped illumination from one of the other switches in the area. Found the info in some other thread, of course probably hard to find now.i guess that was more what my question was, how did you tap into ignition and acc for illumination?
ARB compressors have quite a few reported long-term failures, and as I understand it, the consensus is that they primarily fail due to overheating. I open up my hood when using my ARB twin. Additionally, by opening the hood you're letting the hot air in the engine bay escape, and are allowing the compressor to suck in slightly cooler air than you would otherwise. Seems like wins all around IMO.
If that doesn’t bother you, then keep it simple and do the underhood set-up. The wiring and plumbing will be easier.Maybe I’m naive but I’d have no problem sitting with my hood up for ten minutes while I air up. It’s not exactly downtown Detroit out there..
On the last day of LCDC, we took Cimarron RD north to 50 to go home. We were aired down and Google said there was a diner at Cimarron and I decided to just go there thinking there would be a parking lot to air up and we could get some food. There was a diner but it’s been few years since anyone has eaten there:If that doesn’t bother you, then keep it simple and do the underhood set-up. The wiring and plumbing will be easier.
Do you worry about compressor overheating with the hood closed? I guess with engine off it might be okay with hood closed.
On the last day of LCDC, we took Cimarron RD north to 50 to go home. We were aired down and Google said there was a diner at Cimarron and I decided to just go there thinking there would be a parking lot to air up and we could get some food. There was a diner but it’s been few years since anyone has eaten there:
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Anyway, we aired up on the side of 50. Not great as I don’t like being on the side of a highway doing anything to my vehicle. I was plenty off the road so felt it was ok. With my hood up, two cars stopped to see if I needed help. I closed my hood to stop that. Not a big deal but hood up is a distress signal depending where you are at. I know, the real moral of my story is not air up on the side of a main highway.
This removal is for a right hand drive, but same steps for a left hand drive.