ARB twin compressor wiring ideas (2 Viewers)

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ARB compressors have quite a few reported long-term failures, and as I understand it, the consensus is that they primarily fail due to overheating. I open up my hood when using my ARB twin. Additionally, by opening the hood you're letting the hot air in the engine bay escape, and are allowing the compressor to suck in slightly cooler air than you would otherwise. Seems like wins all around IMO.
I was thinking about this, and believe the heat already in the compressor from sitting in the hot closed engine bay is a big problem. Yes fresh air being ingested would help but if it’s already sitting at 150F before even running it.. that cool air is only going to go so far if it has to make pressure right away.

My plan is to run the compressor for a bit with the blower attachment (meaning developing flow but very little pressure, which is what really heats up air compressors) to get some cooler air through it before starting to actually inflate any tires.
 
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i guess that was more what my question was, how did you tap into ignition and acc for illumination?
There are circuits for both of those options in the fuse block. I used a fuse tap for both.
 
i guess that was more what my question was, how did you tap into ignition and acc for illumination?
On both my ‘13 and ‘16 (so I assume all 200 years) the IGN fuse position is only hot when the ignition is on. I used a product called Add-a-Fuse to grab that power source. I don’t have experience tapping into an ACC source.

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On both my ‘13 and ‘16 (so I assume all 200 years) the IGN fuse position is only hot when the ignition is on. I used a product called Add-a-Fuse to grab that power source. I don’t have experience tapping into an ACC source.

View attachment 2716485
Cool, just bought some of those Add-a-Fuse units this morning. Thanks for the pic.
 
i guess that was more what my question was, how did you tap into ignition and acc for illumination?
I tapped into the 12volt from the 12volt port in the center console and tapped illumination from one of the other switches in the area. Found the info in some other thread, of course probably hard to find now.
 
ARB compressors have quite a few reported long-term failures, and as I understand it, the consensus is that they primarily fail due to overheating. I open up my hood when using my ARB twin. Additionally, by opening the hood you're letting the hot air in the engine bay escape, and are allowing the compressor to suck in slightly cooler air than you would otherwise. Seems like wins all around IMO.

I think this is a valid point, but an open hood will also send the universal sign to other motorists that something is wrong, car is overheating, etc. and that you need help and/or are distracted, in a vulnerable position. Not a huge deal if you’re leaving a dedicated 4x4 trail with lots of Jeeps; but my mind goes to traveling out west when I would air up several times a day while jumping back on tarmac to get to the next dirt road in rural NM or AZ. I always liked to air up quickly (as inconspicuously as possible) and get moving. Not that I was ever in a bad location or anything, but you never know who could see potentially stranded motorist (in an expensive 4x4), alone, in a rural area, and decide to stop to take advantage of the situation. I think an open hood invites unwanted attention.

Because of this, my vote would be an in-cabin or bumper mounted switch. I too, like @82SC, am planning to use an ARB Linx system with their pressure control kit and related accessories. I think the Linx, with a hard mounted back-up switch, and a custom fabricated four outlet air line would be the trick to airing up in as quickly as possible. Connect the air line, hit ## psi on the Linx, and let it do the work.
 
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Maybe I’m naive but I’d have no problem sitting with my hood up for ten minutes while I air up. It’s not exactly downtown Detroit out there..
 
Maybe I’m naive but I’d have no problem sitting with my hood up for ten minutes while I air up. It’s not exactly downtown Detroit out there..
If that doesn’t bother you, then keep it simple and do the underhood set-up. The wiring and plumbing will be easier.
 
If that doesn’t bother you, then keep it simple and do the underhood set-up. The wiring and plumbing will be easier.
On the last day of LCDC, we took Cimarron RD north to 50 to go home. We were aired down and Google said there was a diner at Cimarron and I decided to just go there thinking there would be a parking lot to air up and we could get some food. There was a diner but it’s been few years since anyone has eaten there:

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Anyway, we aired up on the side of 50. Not great as I don’t like being on the side of a highway doing anything to my vehicle. I was plenty off the road so felt it was ok. With my hood up, two cars stopped to see if I needed help. I closed my hood to stop that. Not a big deal but hood up is a distress signal depending where you are at. I know, the real moral of my story is not air up on the side of a main highway.
 
Do you worry about compressor overheating with the hood closed? I guess with engine off it might be okay with hood closed.

I’ve run and used the twin for years now in extreme heat…including airing up a zillion times after slow-moving, all day wheeling in wrll over 100 drgrees (so almost no airflow to fight the heat under the hood). Its never missed a beat. No worries whatsoever.
 
On the last day of LCDC, we took Cimarron RD north to 50 to go home. We were aired down and Google said there was a diner at Cimarron and I decided to just go there thinking there would be a parking lot to air up and we could get some food. There was a diner but it’s been few years since anyone has eaten there:

View attachment 2758675
Anyway, we aired up on the side of 50. Not great as I don’t like being on the side of a highway doing anything to my vehicle. I was plenty off the road so felt it was ok. With my hood up, two cars stopped to see if I needed help. I closed my hood to stop that. Not a big deal but hood up is a distress signal depending where you are at. I know, the real moral of my story is not air up on the side of a main highway.

On a happier note… The other moral of your story is… there are still a lot of nice folks willing to stop and offer help. :)
 
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I hope to have time this weekend to at least start my compressor install. I want to put my switch one of the open spots in one of the OEM dash panels like shown in some of the pic above. Before I just start trying to blindly pry things apart, I thought I'd check the forum and find a thread with how to do this or maybe some pictures but I'm not finding anything. Does than switch plate just pop out with a pry tool? What is the best way to get access to under dash wires so I can tie into an ignition power source for the switch light? What has to get removed to get access to the fire wall penetration? I'm sure that some of this maybe obvious if I was looking at my truck but it is not where I am currently at.
 

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