ARB twin compressor wiring ideas (1 Viewer)

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bloc

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Hello all,

I'm installing an ARB twin on a slee bracket and looking for ideas on fuse mounting and wiring. The mechanicals of the bracket are easy enough, but the wiring can be case-specific and ambiguous.. and I'm sure users here have come up with some great ideas.

I was hoping people could post pictures of what they've done here as a resource for others doing this work in the future.

Thanks for any info
 
Pretty simple really - since the ARB dual has a relay in there harness, I just picked up an ignition source in the cockpit fuse panel, using an add-a-fuse. ran a single wire through the firewall to the relay. Bought a switch for the right-knee panel and all good!

Photos of my install.

IMG_3845.jpeg
IMG_3846.jpeg
IMG_3847.jpeg
 
I'm about to start this part of my build too. Compressors are back ordered but I have most of the other stuff.
Mine will be be SLEE bracket with dual compressor and manifold
Connected to ARB LINX pressure system to control the compressor as well as to rear airbags.

But a couple things to think of

I like the slimmer switch posted above as it's not as obnoxious as the ARB one they send
Some guys like to install it nearest to the door in the panel with the side mirror control switch as you will likely be outside the car, hood open, drivers door open when you want to activate the compressor so technically a little closer and easier access.
I'm also considering putting the switch in the engine bay. Less switches in the car. 99% of the time I will be turning on the compressor with the hood open standing next to it.
I will have ARB LINX in the cabin to control compressor if needed.
I am upgrading the fuse to the MIDI type fuse like in the SLEE and Ed Martin builds
I'm considering running lines to the front and rear to have air connections there but that's at a later time

I'll be documenting my build too but I'm also just collecting ideas and tips for my setup
 
Pretty simple really - since the ARB dual has a relay in there harness, I just picked up an ignition source in the cockpit fuse panel, using an add-a-fuse. ran a single wire through the firewall to the relay. Bought a switch for the right-knee panel and all good!

Photos of my install.

View attachment 2673145View attachment 2673146View attachment 2673147
Very nice and tidy install. Where did you get that switch for the compressor? Did you have to modify the dash any to make it fit?
 
Good stuff.

What are people doing for the battery connections and mounting the included large fuses?
 
I'm about to start this part of my build too. Compressors are back ordered but I have most of the other stuff.
Mine will be be SLEE bracket with dual compressor and manifold
Connected to ARB LINX pressure system to control the compressor as well as to rear airbags.

But a couple things to think of

I like the slimmer switch posted above as it's not as obnoxious as the ARB one they send
Some guys like to install it nearest to the door in the panel with the side mirror control switch as you will likely be outside the car, hood open, drivers door open when you want to activate the compressor so technically a little closer and easier access.
I'm also considering putting the switch in the engine bay. Less switches in the car. 99% of the time I will be turning on the compressor with the hood open standing next to it.
I will have ARB LINX in the cabin to control compressor if needed.
I am upgrading the fuse to the MIDI type fuse like in the SLEE and Ed Martin builds
I'm considering running lines to the front and rear to have air connections there but that's at a later time

I'll be documenting my build too but I'm also just collecting ideas and tips for my setup
The slee bracket has a slot for the included ARB switch already, though you’ll need to cut up the harness to use it vs passing through the firewall as designed.
 
I’ve been running mine thru a Bluetooth relay. This works well for an air compressor as it is obvious when it’s on or off. The free Bluetooth app isn’t stateful. I wired an override but have never needed it. Advantage is no need to add a cabin switch or go thru the firewall.
Also suggest running a short hose extension to the front bumper so you don’t have to open the hood. Easy to do with PTC fittings.
 
Do you worry about compressor overheating with the hood closed? I guess with engine off it might be okay with hood closed.
 
Do you worry about compressor overheating with the hood closed? I guess with engine off it might be okay with hood closed.
No. It runs less than 10 min to air up my 35s. It’s a 100% duty cycle compressor. . . I’ve never worried about it.
 
i tucked the arb fuses between the battery and the fusebox, and used the stock battery bar to bolt on the pos/negative. my spare wire is rolled up under the slee tray for that inevitable day when i'll just have to use that extra wire 😂

Using switchpros to trigger the arb relay.
1620963234483.png
 
I also just tucked the dual fuses a d wired directly to the factory positive
EABFEEE5-A2CC-498D-B94C-6D3363338AED.jpeg

Some other good points above. I’m putting the ARB pressure control system (Bluetooth) in my 100 since it doesn’t have Onboard Air pressure monitoring (‘99), but you could simplify the wiring by having switch under the hood. I open my hood for air fills, so it could be there. I use the onboard pressure monitors to tell me where the pressure is on the 200

I rolled the extra harness up under the Slee bracket for the future when I want to add lockers or use the relays for some other solenoid use like airbags. So for me having a switch in the cockpit was important the two blanks I’m my original post are for lockers and/or solenoid switching air.

I can’t exactly recall where I got the switch but I think it was OTTRATW or one of those things. I did not have to modify the panel, snapped right in. There are about 3 different toyota switch types but you can tell from the photos. I was able to pic the photo for the switch, etc. I think I found it on some other compressor thread in the 200 section.
 
Air on Board makes a broad selection of switches that fit our blanks.

4x4 seems to have a bunch too, but their site is not mobile friendly for my device.

This switch looks similar to yours: CH4X4 Push Switch for Toyota - Twin Air Compressor Symbol - Blue LED

Amazon product ASIN B019EJQPFQ
 
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I would be interested in hearing about options to place a switch in the engine bay since it will be open when I air up.

What kind of switch do people buy (heat resistant, vibration resistant, etc.) and what's the best way to mount it to the SLEE tray?
 
@sherman Best? No idea. I mounted the switch that came with my arb compressor in the place Slee made for it in their mount. The arb switch has worked fine for me (although others have reported failures).

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I ran mine with stock switch in Slee bracket like others above. I’ve since moved the filler to my bullbar, triggered using a waterproof switch

AC7F1668-BD82-4D9F-9D67-B276213E1B59.jpeg


No issues running compressor with hood closed.
 
No issues running compressor with hood closed.

ARB compressors have quite a few reported long-term failures, and as I understand it, the consensus is that they primarily fail due to overheating. I open up my hood when using my ARB twin. Additionally, by opening the hood you're letting the hot air in the engine bay escape, and are allowing the compressor to suck in slightly cooler air than you would otherwise. Seems like wins all around IMO.
 
The harness included with the compressor makes it pretty much a no-brainer...
 
anyone have a write up of how you did the wiring on the compressor?
It comes with a harness, and instructions. It is very easy to install - large red wire with inline fuse to the battery, black wires to ground, red and blue wires to the pressure switch, and then you need a switch that interrupts 12v power to the red wire in the pressure switch. Arb includes a switch as well. Then you could wire in the lighting circuit for the switch backlight if you want that feature.

I hacked mine up to shorten it and remove wires that I didn’t want.
 

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