MC and booster failures are apparently rare in the 200. I couldn’t easily find a Mud write up on replacement. There is a lot of great brake info in the beginning of this thread, so that may help with a bleeding.I am going to take a look at the cap and see if that cpuld be the issue before spending $1300 on a master cylinder and brake booster. I was watching videos online so just bench bleed the master, remove the 4 bolts and few houses for the brake booster install the master and brake booster then bleed the brake lines like normal?
If there is a write up could someone provide a link please.
Testing brake system:
Does brake pedal feel firm, that’s first test.
We activated ABS hearing and feeling ABS pulse the brakes on and off, so that's working.
No alarm with key on, so that's good. Don't freak out if CEL or ABS light on. If you set off a DTC it may need clearing, which happens often while flushing. I use my BT OBDII or mini VCI cable to clear DTC. In the past, I would to drive to a parts store where I’d get them to hook then I push the clear button, they aren’t allowed to.
Next we test accumulator pump function and for air in system. This is done by evacuating...
Does brake pedal feel firm, that’s first test.
We activated ABS hearing and feeling ABS pulse the brakes on and off, so that's working.
No alarm with key on, so that's good. Don't freak out if CEL or ABS light on. If you set off a DTC it may need clearing, which happens often while flushing. I use my BT OBDII or mini VCI cable to clear DTC. In the past, I would to drive to a parts store where I’d get them to hook then I push the clear button, they aren’t allowed to.
Next we test accumulator pump function and for air in system. This is done by evacuating...