MC and booster failures are apparently rare in the 200. I couldn’t easily find a Mud write up on replacement. There is a lot of great brake info in the beginning of this thread, so that may help with a bleeding.
All 4 calipers locking up any ideas? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter 05ls430518
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Just ordered a master cylinder brake booster from bell lexus they had there 15% off, so saved $200 was only $1100 should be here wensday. I will do a write up on how to replace the master brake booster.
- Thread starter
- #23
So update I tried bench bleeding it, spoke to bell lexus was told you have to use tech stream to bleed the master cylinder. Can I just pump the brakes and bleed using the calipers bleed screws.
Last edited:
The FSM does say you need to use tech stream. You can get a mini VCI cable and a copy of the software for $50 off ebay
- Thread starter
- #25
I do have a scantool arriving tomorrow that does have the ability to bleed abs systems, I hope that will be able to take care of the issue. If not I will go online and get tech stream as you suggested. Thank you for your help.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Only time I saw something like this was someone bled the brakes with, as it turns out, diesel fuel that was in a brake fluid can …. Swelled up all the seals and locked up the brakes. Dumb stuff happens.
- Thread starter
- #27
I totally agree mistakes happen but, I only use unopened bottles of brake fluid when doing brake stuff. I was told that it collects moisture once open, so any bottles thats over a couple months old is s***. Dk if its true but its something I always follow same as never using never-sieze on wheel studs, or spark plugs.
This was also doing it before I even touched the master cylinder/brake booster, unfortunately.
- Thread starter
- #28
Just looked at my friends all data page, it says brakes can be bleed like normal and you only need to use techstream if there is air in the abs system. This is OE factory repair information.
- Thread starter
- #29
So here is a rough write up on how to do the master cylinder disconnect battery push on the brake pedal after its been disconnected. Remove plastic kick plate 2 philios head screws. Remove 4 bolts shown need stubby wrench 12mm with flex entension and 6 inch extension on rachet, regular 12mm wrench, and 12mm deepwell socket with 6 inch extention.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #30
The pedal will have a bracket with a pin and a special clip on it you need 2 picks to get it put I recommend turning the clip upside down and removing it that way.
- Thread starter
- #31
Put plastic down then rags underneath and round the master cylinder, put plastic on the driver fender of the truck. Remove all clips loosen 12mm brake lines and remove old booster push lines down while pulling booster up at an angle.
- Thread starter
- #32
Make sure you rinse any paint that gets brake fluid on it immediately. Bench bleed the master cylinder install is reverse of removal. For the pin that connects the booster arm to the pedal put it in the left side first line it up with the hole in the pedal and push it through. Go over the top of the pedal when doing this. Bleed brakes like normal start with rear passenger, then rear driver, fromt passenger the driver front.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #33
So the vsc and abs light are on truck brakes like it should no issues tried resetting them with a scan tool to no avail. Anyone know how to reset the abs ecu?
I am pretty sure it needs to be programmed to match up to the truck not positive though.
I am pretty sure it needs to be programmed to match up to the truck not positive though.
- Thread starter
- #34
Figured out how to reset everything so there is no lights on the dash, go into the sas portion of your scan tool reset that and that should clear all codes. On the tool I was using it was talking about resetting the steering angle sensor etc and it shut all the lights off, once I did the reset procedure.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #35
So any help would be appreciated the rotors are still getting really hot to where I drive for 5-10 mins throw water on them it sizzles. I can touch the calipers themselves they are warm but not scorching hot. Is that normal it is 92°F out today.
Only thing left is the abs at this point?
Only thing left is the abs at this point?
Last edited:
Unless you did a series of hard stops, there is no reason for rotors to be sizzling hot. Are you sure you don’t need Techstream to correctly bleed a new install? Are there any master cylinder tweaks needed after a new install? Did you hook up the code reader to see if there are pending codes (but not yet set)? Did you ever replace the rotors, pads, hardware, and calipers with OEM? If you’re back at square one with the same problem that occurred right after those aftermarket parts were installed at the wheels, maybe consider OEM?
- Thread starter
- #37
Its possible I may need to lengthen the arm that goes to the pedal maybe its still engaging part of the way so the brakes are pressed down partially. I did not measure the lengths of the master cylinder/booster arm
I cleared and read all codes there is nothing, I am going to check again for giggles right now.
It would be great if it’s just a simple mechanical adjustment!
- Thread starter
- #40
So rod length is the same, there is no stored codes or pending codes I am stumped. The truck did this with the original oem calipers also that's what led me to replace all 4 calipers.
I am open to any ideas at this point the brake booster master cylinder is defective, along with all 4 calipers, voodoo anyone have anything?
I am open to any ideas at this point the brake booster master cylinder is defective, along with all 4 calipers, voodoo anyone have anything?
Last edited:
