ARB Deluxe bumper with winch

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Threads
7
Messages
41
Location
Indianapolis
Hi folks,

Got a straight forward question. I want to replace my stock bumper with the ARB Deluxe bumper (3411050) but I want to know what is the depth of it? Or in other terms how far will it stick out vs the stock? I ask because I have roughly 7-10 in left of space on my garage in front of the truck before the garage door won’t close with the truck in it. Going to order soon if I can make sure it clears. Thanks for the info ahead of time!
 
I’ve got a 1996 with that arb and the fair lead brackets stick out 13” past the front grill. (Measured next to the sombrero). It’s going to be close if you can fit.
 
i don't have solid numbers, but i know it is a good 12" or so away for winch plus fairlead. so you are adding at least 12-16"
 
Dang! If I went with a winch bumper but didn’t get the winch do you think I could fit it? I don’t plan on getting the winch for a little while.
 
The fairlead bracket is the part that sticks out the farthest. So waiting to get a winch will have no effect on fitting in the garage.
You may have better luck with a non winch arb. They don’t have the fairlead bracket and look like they fit tighter since they don’t need room for a winch.
 
Well darn, that’s unfortunate. Not to change the subject but for a guy that doesn’t off-road. Do I really need a winch?
 
Perhaps the non-winch bumper may fit. It looks better anyway and it you needed a winch you could cut a slot for a Hawse fairlead.

Better cosmetics; perhaps enough room.
 
Still better get the measurements to be sure you fit in the garage.

I need a deer deflector too, soon.
 
You could do hidden winch + other bumper, or hidden winch behind non-winch ARB.
 
I've got a '94 and it's 8.5" from grill to front plate of ARB. Mine's a winch bumper, so I'm not counting any of the roller fairlead protector hardware, but you should allow 9" to clear vertical supports that protrude another .5". If you will be touching rear wall of garage which means you won't be able to walk around front or around back of rig when/if garage door is shut. Not to mention trying to work on rig in inclimate weather. Hmmm, not the best of situations, but it's your call. :cheers:
 
I think having the non winch ARB is the way to go and just like subzali said, add a hidden one later. Do you folks who have a winch use it often? Since I don’t off-road I doubt I use it very much. But I am trying to think of creative ways to use the winch rather than just pulling folks out of the ditch in my home town when they forget you can’t go the same speed on small county roads after a snowstorm. Any creative ideas for winch use?
 
we once pulled a tree stump out of the yard with the winch (not on an 80 series) - the yanking went so well that then tree stump flung into the garage door and left a big dent there . . .

we couldn't stop laughing the whole rest of the afternoon :hillbilly:
 
Last edited:
great for doing recoveries for your buddies with 2wd trucks that think they are Ivan Stewart and can go anywhere anyspeed.
 
Do a lot of night travel through county roads and mountain roads and need a “deer protector 5000”

I completely get needing the hoop for deer strikes.

If you want, I can measure mine in the morning - I’m as low-profile as you can get with a Hawse fairlead & I used a grinder to break the spot welds the roller fairleads integrate into.

I run a lay-flat Factor 55 for my hook/termination, but you could extend a norm hook & just stow it on any place you think conveniently works, say either the hi-lift loops or drill a hole somewhere to get a hook tip to stay put.

If you look in my “ ‘Yota albums”, I had a few shots of it because another guy was after clearance verification for a Warn M12K. Those might help you see what I’m typing.
 
I completely get needing the hoop for deer strikes.

If you want, I can measure mine in the morning - I’m as low-profile as you can get with a Hawse fairlead & I used a grinder to break the spot welds the roller fairleads integrate into.

I run a lay-flat Factor 55 for my hook/termination, but you could extend a norm hook & just stow it on any place you think conveniently works, say either the hi-lift loops or drill a hole somewhere to get a hook tip to stay put.

If you look in my “ ‘Yota albums”, I had a few shots of it because another guy was after clearance verification for a Warn M12K. Those might help you see what I’m typing.

Thank you Linus, that would be great! Low profile might work better for me. But how strong is that bumper? Do you think you can take a whitetail at 55?
 
Thank you Linus, that would be great! Low profile might work better for me. But how strong is that bumper? Do you think you can take a whitetail at 55?
Just so you're aware, if you hit any animal larger than a medium sized dog at 55 mph, outside of the truck's frame rails, you're going to bend the bumper back into the body, at least a little. Even the ARB will suffer some damage. It was designed to protect the radiator from damage if you hit a kangaroo. Yep, there are some sizable "Roos" in Oz, so radiator should survive a whitetail and if the impact is between frame rails, you might escape any sheet metal damage. Although cleaning the hair and meat off the ARB might take a while. :yuck:

One other tip, resist your inclination or reflex, if you can, to swerve to miss the animal at highway speeds. Best thing you could do is brake hard to reduce impact speed as much as possible. Swerving can cause loss of control and cause more damage than hitting the animal. I know of and have seen several totaled rigs, with injury to the occupants, when the driver swerved to miss deer.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom