Arb air locker – factory switch integration (1 Viewer)

[hazard]

I have used factory switch to run fr and rear ARBs. I didn't use any relays, just power from switch to compressor and solenoids. Seems to work good but I have no indicator lights. My 97 80 doesn't seem to have the 15(?) pin locker ecu plug. Only one empty plug under kick panel and it only has 11.
Any help out there to make indicator lights work. I have installed the bulbs.
Thanks

 

[hazard]

I have a 97 80, US vehicle with no factory lockers and the gray plug is definitely not there. The locker switch plug is there and works. I am in the process of wiring and all seems to work with testing but I would like the dash lights and for that I need the locker ECU plug. Is there any chance I don't have one or it is elsewhere?

 

[nuclearlemon]

old thread

bringback. found this thread while researching this conversion. i have a 95 with oe lockers and a 96 without. both have the grey plug. for the 96, i did have to dig it out of the kick panel, it was tucked in. i suspect 97 would be the same. i do not know if the earlier years are the same. here's what it looks like loose from my 96 and attached to the controller on my 95

 

[nuclearlemon]

in the few wiring diagrams i've found here, i see no inclusion of the pressure switch. are people doing this without the switch, and if so, why?

 

[landcrshr]

Do you mean the compressor cutoff switch? It's integrated into the ARB wiring.

 

[alia176]

in the few wiring diagrams i've found here, i see no inclusion of the pressure switch. are people doing this without the switch, and if so, why?

Iggy,

I don't have the typical ARB system in my 80 but IIRC, the comp is wired so that as soon as the pressure is reached, it cuts off power to the unit. So, my guess is that the guys who are using the factory switch, are simply turning the lockers on/off. Perhaps the comp is being put on "standby" by flipping another in cab switch. After that point forward, it simply cycles on/off as needed (based on locker activation)?

 

[nuclearlemon]

the wiring schematics folks are posting up are including the compressor. the pressure switch is additional wiring and is tied to the lockers, i believe

 

[nuclearlemon]

Do you mean the compressor cutoff switch? It's integrated into the ARB wiring.

so you're just using the supplied harness? i don't have a complete one. this setup came out of a friends rig, so i've got the parts to the two locker switches, battery power, and the parts to the compressor and cutoff, but not to the compressor dash switch

 

[alia176]

so you're just using the supplied harness? i don't have a complete one. this setup came out of a friends rig, so i've got the parts to the two locker switches, battery power, and the parts to the compressor and cutoff, but not to the compressor dash switch

if you can find it, back in the day, QuickAirII had this diagram online that shows how to wire up their unit in a very nifty way. I've used this diagram for all OBA installs, using a lighted dashboard switch. Cool thing about this install is that the light in the switch would turn off when the compressor has reached the pressure, usually 105 or 150 psi. I'll see if I have it saved on my hdd someplace. QA-II was sold by Sun Products I think.

 

[Darasick]

I used Viair's diagram and pressure switch (PN 90217 – 110/145 psi) when wiring mine. I have a rocker switch to turn on the compressor and let the pressure switch do the work afterwards. I used a Puma compressor and built a manifold dedicated to the lockers which I have regulated to 95psi IIRC.

 

[landcrshr]

the wiring schematics folks are posting up are including the compressor. the pressure switch is additional wiring and is tied to the lockers, i believe

You may be referring to an additional pressure switch that can be used between the solenoid and the locker. This setup can be used to trigger the factory dash indicator when the locker is actually pressurized, instead of relying on just the dash switch.

ARB compressor cutoff switch is on the left. Added are the brass tee and adjustable pressure switch for the locker indicator.

 

[alia176]

You may be referring to an additional pressure switch that can be used between the solenoid and the locker. This setup can be used to trigger the factory dash indicator when the locker is actually pressurized, instead of relying on just the dash switch.

ARB cutoff switch is on the left. Added are the brass tee and adjustable pressure switch for the locker indicator.

View attachment 1032822

I can't quite recall at the moment, but the prevailing thought used to be was to simply use a relay to switch ground for the instrument panel locker symbol. Another words, when you switch the OEM dial to the right one click, this engaged the ARB solenoid and also tripped the relay. The ARB solenoid would engage along with the dash locker symbol would light up. Click the dial one more to the right and you'd now see both locker symbol in the dash.

 

[landcrshr]

That's what the OP of this thread did, but since the relays don't monitor air line pressure, you could have a line failure or solenoid failure and the "locked" light would stay on even though you are not locked.

BTW, the integration can be accomplished without any additional relays or dash switches.

Example: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/controlling-the-arb-dual-compressor-with-the-magic-dial.812037/ (this does not allow for the indicator lights however)

 

[hamishpotter]

Out of curiosity, and inexperience, is it ever preferable to select only the front locker? Seems the factory switch does not let you am I correct..

 

[Darasick]

That's what the OP of this thread did, but since the relays don't monitor air line pressure, you could have a line failure or solenoid failure and the "locked" light would stay on even though you are not locked.

BTW, the integration can be accomplished without any additional relays or dash switches.

Example: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/controlling-the-arb-dual-compressor-with-the-magic-dial.812037/ (this does not allow for the indicator lights however)

Very nice install!

Here's how I monitor air pressure. The gauge on the left is the tank pressure and the gauge on the right is the pressure at the locker solenoids.

 

[Darasick]

Out of curiosity, and inexperience, is it ever preferable to select only the front locker? Seems the factory switch does not let you am I correct..

Selecting just the front locker around here is called a "front dig". I've never seen anyone do it, nor have I ever been in a situation where I think it would have benefited me. None of this however, means that it is not beneficial.

 

[alia176]

Out of curiosity, and inexperience, is it ever preferable to select only the front locker? Seems the factory switch does not let you am I correct..

You're correct, the factory dial does NOT allow the locking of the front locker only. It's only a two position switch, hence the oem setup. You'd need a three pos sel switch for what you want to do: front or rear or both.

Truthfully, I thought this might've been an issue when I tied in my ARBs with the oem dial switch but haven't found it to be an issue. My last rig had two pneumatic switches for ARB locker activation so I had some apprehension with Toyota's approach but it's been working out fine.

Given the propensity of the birfs to explode under certain loaded conditions, I don't think you want the front dig capability anyway, but YMMV.

 

[alia176]

BTW, the integration can be accomplished without any additional relays or dash switches.

Example: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/controlling-the-arb-dual-compressor-with-the-magic-dial.812037/ (this does not allow for the indicator lights however)

That's a nice install, damn shame that the locker indicators can't be turned on/off.

 

[alia176]

Very nice install!
Here's how I monitor air pressure. The gauge on the left is the tank pressure and the gauge on the right is the pressure at the locker solenoids.

That's very nice and clean.

I took a diff approach since I have one press gauge under the hood, attached to the OBA manifold and another one on the front bumper. I really don't need to know "how much" air I have in the system, as long as it's enough to engage the air lockers. To that end, my in dash (left of steering wheel) air comp switch has a built in indicator. So, when the compressor clutch (york) is engaged, this light turns on. When the system has reached setpoint pressure, about 105psi, the system goes back into stand by mode and this light turns off.

Admittedly, if you have a typical elec air comp, then you can hear it run and this idea is not necessary. But, if you have a york which is practically silent, it's nice to know when the clutch coil is engaged vs not.

 

[UTkruzer]

I ran across this while pulling the wire connector from a parts truck to use an antenna switch for an inside winch switch. The wiring harness, 82141-60122, contains the connector for the antenna switch, the connector for the rear defrost switch (that I'm using for LED lightbar), a couple other connectors, and an 18 pin connector that fits the Gray 16 pin locker ECU connector. Then you can wire the ARB relays without permanent changes to your wiring harness. After you de-pin the unused wires, you also get a bunch of repair splices.