Apparently my misfire was caused by a crushed spark plug boot. OEM vs aftermarket? (1 Viewer)

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Jun 27, 2014
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Of course, I pulled the manifold to rewrap the harness, checked my injectors, etc - I even replaced the spark plugs, but just assumed the plug wires themselves must be fine because, hey, they LOOK new. Nope, apparently one was crushed. I hunted this misfire for a month.

Anyway, I guess I'll replace the wires, rotor, and cap. Should I go OEM or aftermarket? Thanks.
 
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I always go OEM on stuff like that. Comparing to aftermarket, I have found the factory wire set is much more well made. Everything fits perfectly. It costs a bit more, but you're not replacing them that often. It also affects things like reliability, performance, and even water-tight sealing. I would stick with factory wire sets (and rotor/distributor cap/plugs as well)... I have found the Toyota wires are better than anything else I can buy. But that's me.

Muddy1
 
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Don't forget the PCV valve and the grommet that goes with it.

Muddy1

P.S. I'd likely do the fuel filter as well.
 
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There is definitely sticker shock at $100 + for a set of wires. I will say they are far and away the most well put together set I've ever installed on a vehicle. Besides, look how long the OEM made it, mine were at 18 years and doing fine.
 
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In case you've not noticed CruiserDan and Beno mention they can get mud members a discount on OEM parts. (If you decide to mail order them.)
 
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There is definitely sticker shock at $100 + for a set of wires. I will say they are far and away the most well put together set I've ever installed on a vehicle. Besides, look how long the OEM made it, mine were at 18 years and doing fine.

^^this^^ I just replaced my wires [and cap/rotor/plugs/pcv/valve cover gasket] and the oem fit is super easy to replace and mine were original at 18+ yrs old so I cant-wont complain about the cost.......
 
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just priced out OEM wires at $180 at the stealership this week. No thanks.

@cruiserdan quoted us about $128 for everything, wires, distributor cap, etc. I also made an ass of myself when I called since I didn't even bother to specify the vehicle at first - in my mind, @cruiserdan is as synonymous with Land Cruisers as are diff locks and oil leaks.
 
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I would gladly pay $100 or even $180 for a set of OEM leads. Unfortunately, I have to pay $290 here in AUS. But after a horrible experience trying to remove aftermarket leads that melted to the plugs, I consider it money very well spent. Never again will I fit aftermarket leads. Whatever they cost, it's worth it.
 
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Just pulled the #6 plug boot. It LOOKS fine, but interestingly, the truck didn't misfire after a real mechanic re-seated it (for awhile, I guess it rattled loose after about 50 miles). I just re-seated it (a fun task with the PHH in the way!) and it stopped missing...for about two seconds. Definitely ordering a new set of these next paycheck. I want to make it clear that these are aftermarket parts - PO/PPO installed them. OEM is what I'll reinstall.
 
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I just got rid of aftermarket Bosch on my 96. #6 plug tube was full of oil and the boot swelled up and stayed on the plug. It took me 3 hours to get that boot out. PO put on the Bosch. I put on aftermarket (and fixed the tube seals)
 
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Just pulled the #6 plug boot. It LOOKS fine, but interestingly, the truck didn't misfire after a real mechanic re-seated it (for awhile, I guess it rattled loose after about 50 miles). I just re-seated it (a fun task with the PHH in the way!) and it stopped missing...for about two seconds. Definitely ordering a new set of these next paycheck. I want to make it clear that these are aftermarket parts - PO/PPO installed them. OEM is what I'll reinstall.

uh, that's the heater valve and its hoses in the way of #6 plug access, the phh is actually under the intake manifold, best accessed thru the drivers front wheel well [I believe] I can let you know, I have my radiator out at the moment and had forgotten to get the hose from the thermostat housing to the "pipe" that then connects the lower hose to the radiator so its sitting till next weekend, and we took the day to celebrate my nephews birthday, and shot his new .45 pistol and my aero precision ar15 build instead of wrenching. The phh is being changed next Saturday and then everything else is going back together.
 
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uh, that's the heater valve and its hoses in the way of #6 plug access, the phh is actually under the intake manifold, best accessed thru the drivers front wheel well [I believe] I can let you know, I have my radiator out at the moment and had forgotten to get the hose from the thermostat housing to the "pipe" that then connects the lower hose to the radiator so its sitting till next weekend, and we took the day to celebrate my nephews birthday, and shot his new .45 pistol and my aero precision ar15 build instead of wrenching. The phh is being changed next Saturday and then everything else is going back together.

Please do. The PHH has already been done on this truck so I know jack about doing it. Also, when choosing between shooting and wrenching, remember that one costs money and the other saves you money :D
 

DSRTRDR

I can mangle anything ...
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the Yazaki wires I found on my 40 in 2004 were from 1983, and the truck was running fine - and there really didn't seem to be a need to replace them

that alone convinced me into buying Yazaki wires again any time for any of the cruisers - if they last 20 years, you are way ahead in paying for OEM compared to changing some aftermarket wires every 5 years

and that isn't even counting the reliability issue if you are out in the backcountry or somesuch

just my $0.02 cents
 
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I just got rid of aftermarket Bosch on my 96. #6 plug tube was full of oil and the boot swelled up and stayed on the plug. It took me 3 hours to get that boot out. PO put on the Bosch. I put on aftermarket (and fixed the tube seals)

the oil is because a spark plug seal failed. i don't know that the OE wires would be easier to remove - i tore many of mine getting them out.
 
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Nov 23, 2014
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I just stumbled across this thread. I recently just left the dealership, and they quoted 190 and some change for a set of wires for my 96 cruiser. I'm not having any issues with mine, but since I was doing the cap, rotor, and plugs thought might as well. Toyota parts zone has them for $105. Are they worth going through? Sorry to jack the thread.
 

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