#6cylinder/spark plug (1 Viewer)

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Landcruisers ru

SILVER Star
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Mar 18, 2019
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Location
Tahoma, Lake Tahoe
Changing out my spark plugs and wires. It's always the last one right and so happens to be #6.
The Spark plug itself is in #6 with the broken off rubber from the boot still around the plug. I can not get the 16mm deep socket or a 5/8 around the plug itself to remove the plug. . I can feel the socket hitting the top of the plug however around the plug is the bottom portion of the boot..I can feel and hear the socket hitting this rubber.
I have tried with a mirror to see, headlamp, flashlight..and
A) Long needle nose pliers
B)assorted mechanic picks
C)17mm socket with small rubber glove inside, thinking this would help grab the pice of boot around the spark plug and turn it.
I have worked on this for 2 days, searched the threads but did not find anything that fits what I am going through.
I ask the UD members for some help and humorist my situation. Any and all help, knowledge, and remedies would be greatly appreciated.
I thank everyone in advance.
 
Here's a previous thread on the same subject, discusses a few different methods to go about it. I ended up using a 7/8" hole saw to grind up the plastic/rubber into bits then blew them out with air before removing the plug.

Someone else used the original Toyota stamped metal spark plug socket (in the tool bag) which has sharp edges. He apparently pushed that down which cut into and past the rubber, then was able to remove the plug.

 
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Here's a previous thread on the same subject, discusses a few different methods to go about it. I ended up using a 7/8" hole saw to grind up the plastic/rubber into bits then blew them out with air before removing the plug.

Someone else used the original Toyota stamped metal spark plug socket (in the tool bag) which has sharp edges. He apparently pushed that down which cut into and past the rubber, then was able to remove the plug.

Kernel, thank you much I advance for your help and reccomendations as they are much appreciated. .I am going back out with a fresh perspective and try this again. I will let you know the results a little later. Have a nice day.
Again, Thanks.
 
Kernel, thank you much I advance for your help and reccomendations as they are much appreciated. .I am going back out with a fresh perspective and try this again. I will let you know the results a little later. Have a nice day.
Again, Thanks.
Kernel, thank you once again for the help.
Sunday I was defeated. Monday, I went back out and got to it. I figured I would try one last time with a pick and hemastats, etc before I tried the grind the boot to bits procedure. I sat there and picked at it with a long mechanics /dental metal pick, finally spraying Electrical cleaner in the cylinder, to help loosen., I knew it would evaporate off, then blowing out with compressed air. I used a long dental pick and about 15 minutes into it I could hear the rubber breaking suction, couple.more picks and I got the broken boot off from around the Spark plug, out of the cylinder, all in One piece.
So if anyone else experiences the bottom of the Spark plug boot breaking off around the Spark plug in not only cylinder 6 but any cylinder, a little QD Electrical cleaner, and a long metal dental pick to grab the boot and pull upwards while keeping pressure against the boot itself,. The Spark plug boot will come up and off, allowing access to the plug itself with a 16mm deep socket, or the Spark plug tool in your Tool Bag that is provided by Toyota. With new Spark plug wires , I added just a tad of Dialetic grease to the outer ring of the boot that seats around the spark plug itself..
Thank you again Kernal to add to your work and reccomendations, I hope this helps for anyone else in the future with the broken boot on the plug still in the cylinder, royal P.I.T.A.. 😀 .
I have to think my Sailor language helped also.
 
Glad you got it out.

IIRC the boot I had stuck in the spark plug hole was from an aftermarket set of wires and may have been harder than the OEM boot/plastic. I also tried multiple different picks with no luck so resorted to grinding it to little bits.

What we need is a 2-3 pronged grabber tool ie: 2-3 narrow long fish-hook fingers with barbs on the end just for this job, narrow enough to slide into the tube to either slide around the boot or puncture through it, then pull up??
 
Glad you got it out.

IIRC the boot I had stuck in the spark plug hole was from an aftermarket set of wires and may have been harder than the OEM boot/plastic. I also tried multiple different picks with no luck so resorted to grinding it to little bits.

What we need is a 2-3 pronged grabber tool ie: 2-3 narrow long fish-hook fingers with barbs on the end just for this job, narrow enough to slide into the tube to either slide around the boot or puncture through it, then pull up??
1697598007415.png
 
IIRC I tried something like that (or that specific grabber), not strong enough.

I was thinking more like a narrow three fingered gear puller but with much thinner long fingers and sharp points and barbs, like a fishhook or flounder gig spear with the barbs facing inward.
(not this exact spear, but points like that in tripod set up??)

FWIW

Flounder gig spear tip.jpg
 
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As noted above, dielectric grease (and using OEM wires and boots) is usually your friend here for multiple reasons. This OP stuck boot issue is new one for me. I coat the plug electrodes and adjacent ceramics with dielectric grease, and also put some in the plug-wire boot hole. I also make sure the plug tube holes are relatively clean and the plug-wire rubber boot tops seal the tubes properly. I just did this last week with a set a fresh parts. Cheers.
 
As noted above, dielectric grease (and using OEM wires and boots) is usually your friend here for multiple reasons. This OP stuck boot issue is new one for me. I coat the plug electrodes and adjacent ceramics with dielectric grease, and also put some in the plug-wire boot hole. I also make sure the plug tube holes are relatively clean and the plug-wire rubber boot tops seal the tubes properly. I just did this last week with a set a fresh parts. Cheers.
Thank you WESTERN FLYER & KERNAL.... I completely agree, OEM wires and boots. I have to admit I am one of those OEM junkies, Denso, Aisin..This time however I chose to go with the NGK wires and boots.(blue in color) as well NGK Irridium spark plugs. Last time I did this 50k miles ago I did use Yakaza OEM wires/boots and changed out the Spark plug seals themselves also. I did not do the Spark plug seals this time however next time I do this I probably will. I did use dialetic grease at the end of the wires to the dizzy, as well the boots. I did not add dialetic grease to the inside of the boot to the plug, I am always concerned the grease will get down into the cylinder somehow. I am not 100% sure that is possible but...thoughts?... so I added dialetic to the outer 2 rings of bottom of the boot. Also, while I was back at plug.#6 I was adjusting my weight and broke the nipple off the fuel filter no1 on top of the manifold. This part (90917- 11022, PARTSORQ) came here today so I will change this out as well a new line in the AM. Sunday night I will list all "I did to the 80 this weekend" forum.
Thank you again KERNAL and WESTERN FLYER for the advice, help and kindness, it is all very appreciated. Both of you have a great weekend. MUD you all never disappoint, you all rock!!.

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