Excellent way to protect the brake rotors Dust shields, and so on.
With the spare extra wheels!!
With the spare extra wheels!!
Build Anyone recognize this 80
- Thread starter Godwin
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- #142
Spare wheels will be put to use when installing these axles under the Cruiser, just roll them under and without tires no need to jack things up to the clouds.
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- #144
Since this time I've put >5000 miles on the engine. I changed the oil and filter at ca. 5000 miles and had no noticeable oil consumption during this time. I'll call this no significant damage to the engine even with the massive puking of oil, but I also shut down the engine once I noticed it.
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- #145
Past few weeks I've been ripping up and down some south Alabama dirt roads. We're nearing drought conditions so dirt roads = dust, sometimes a lot of dust. Last week I noticed that I had some heavy dust intrusion into the cargo area, but also a light dust layer lay upon most surfaces within the cabin. I knew the rear quarter panels were rotted but I had not expected that that would allow dust to enter. Today I took steps to keep out the dust by stuffing some pieces of closed cell foam into the 1/4 panels and adding layers of a foil backed insulation, simply stuff I had on hand. This should help to keep dust out.
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- #146
Knuckles on the locked axle going together with new hardware. Back when parts were still relatively less expensive I stocked up on fresh knuckle rebuild hardware so dug into the stash today. New studs, cone washers, flat washers, and nuts. Once fasteners were torqued properly I added a paint mark to indicate such.
You definitely need to add a snorkel, so as water levels continue to drop, you leave the canoe on top and drive the river with the LC!
Don’t forget about the insulation after we start getting rain again. Unless they been replaced or some sealant applied, the clips in the belt molding under the sliding windows can let a lot of water in back there.
Speaking of drought… man, the Choctawhatchee looks pretty right now.
Speaking of drought… man, the Choctawhatchee looks pretty right now.
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- #150
Today was rear axle day. Cone washers fought hard against coming out and I bent some of the studs whacking on them with a brass drift. Never have had that much difficulty in removing cone washers. The Vessel impact driver is great for removing the lock screws without stripping them. One I had the hubs rebuilt with new bearings, seals, studs, nuts, and washers I added a paint mark.
Thats a nice looking Jeep in the background.
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- #152
Rear axle ready to be swapped in, except for swapping over the new rotors and calipers on the old axle. Locker works and I added a Slee guard because I sometimes run over stuff, not so much rocks but small trees, shrubs, the errant Kia (actually have never run over a Kia but I'm tempted almost every time I drive in town
).
).
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- #153
Spent most of the past week driving from Alabama, through Memphis stopping by Mosley Motors, then on to Arkansas, then return. Total mileage was about 1500 miles with mileage ca. 11+ mpg. I towed an empty M416 to Memphis, dropped it off there, then picked it up on the return loaded with a 4.4 liter 2F that Mosley put together.
We spent a day roaming around the Ozarks north of Mountain View and around Sylamore Creek.
We spent a day roaming around the Ozarks north of Mountain View and around Sylamore Creek.
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- #154
8274 mounted on 80 made quick work of pulling a dead Rabbit truck off the trailer. The VW is one of @cruiserinsanity purchase, along with 3 other dead VWs.
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- #155
Day and a half into a transfer case swap. I had (mistakenly) expected to have the old case out and the new in within a day, or day and a half. The last time I swapped an 80 t-case things did go much smoother. With this one I had to deal with gorilla over tightened front drive shaft nuts, rusty bolts, and a t-case that was a beast to split from the transmission. It's now out and new one will be going in.
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- #156
Front driveshaft freshened up with new u-joints. The ones in there weren't sloppy but they weren't OEM and I prefer OEM u-joints. I expect these u-joints, if properly maintained, to outlast my driving time with this 80.
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- #157
Removing the old t-case was a fight, installation of the new one was only a struggle. Not knowing the condition of the old sensors I replaced all three with new.
Plus the cross member bolts and nuts under the transmission cushion were replaced with new. The old stuff was beyond crusty.
Tomorrow I'll wrap this up with installation of the driveshafts and see how it runs. T-case was filled with 75-90 Mobil 1 synthetic. T-case was rebuilt by @cruisermatt with 10% lower gears for high range and 3:1 for low.
Plus the cross member bolts and nuts under the transmission cushion were replaced with new. The old stuff was beyond crusty.
Tomorrow I'll wrap this up with installation of the driveshafts and see how it runs. T-case was filled with 75-90 Mobil 1 synthetic. T-case was rebuilt by @cruisermatt with 10% lower gears for high range and 3:1 for low.
- Thread starter
- #158
Still finding crap work by the shop that did the head gasket for the PO. My alternator went out yesterday leading to a dead battery. I was able to get a jump but only made it about 300 m before the engine died. Both alternator and battery dead. I gave @cruiserinsanity a call at the shop where he works Eagle Imports Service - https://www.eagleimports.org/ and the guys immediately ordered an alternator from Auto Zone, the quickest way to get a replacement. Gavin hopped in his FJ60 and came on over with a jump box since I was blocking traffic. We hooked up the jump box, cranked the 1FZ and I slowly drove through town with the jump box attached to the battery and the hood opened, but low. Kept speed low as not to flip up the hood or dislodge the jump box connections (that happened once).
At the shop we dug in and pulled the dead Denso alternator. Here's where the shop in CO screwed up (see pic). Photo is not good but it shows a coolant leak below the distributor and behind the alternator. Only with pulling the alternator could it be seen. Where the hard radiator line mates with the head is one stud and nut with the lower fastener being a bolt. From parts diagram I think there should be two studs and nuts and that the bolt is not securing the base of the hard pipe to the head sufficiently. This will be corrected soon.
FYI Auto Zone alternators are funcitional but not great. As soon as I can I'll be swapping a Denso unit back in.
At the shop we dug in and pulled the dead Denso alternator. Here's where the shop in CO screwed up (see pic). Photo is not good but it shows a coolant leak below the distributor and behind the alternator. Only with pulling the alternator could it be seen. Where the hard radiator line mates with the head is one stud and nut with the lower fastener being a bolt. From parts diagram I think there should be two studs and nuts and that the bolt is not securing the base of the hard pipe to the head sufficiently. This will be corrected soon.
FYI Auto Zone alternators are funcitional but not great. As soon as I can I'll be swapping a Denso unit back in.
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- #159
Couple of small things with the 80 as I progress toward having a fully functional Cruiser. After installing the new t-case, actually also prior to installation, I did not know if the CDL was working. Of course checking it while out of the truck would have been the better approach, but I didn't. A CDL switch had been installed in the dash and pushing it you can hear a relay clicking, but no dash light. Quick check today was to jump the wiring at the switch on the t-case. Dash light does work. Next up will be to pull the actuator and dig into it.
Second small thing was to knock the birfs off the axle shafts. I'll be replacing these as one of these birfs is very notchy when moving it around and I don't trust that it will hold up. If I'm going to do one, I'm going to do both. In the past I've used the pipe trick to remove a birf from an axle shaft but sometimes the splitting of the birf from the shaft takes a lot slamming down on the pipe. Today I tried something else. I held the axle shaft in one hand with the birf down and then smacked the bell with a 4 lb hammer. Only took two whacks and the birf popped off.
Second small thing was to knock the birfs off the axle shafts. I'll be replacing these as one of these birfs is very notchy when moving it around and I don't trust that it will hold up. If I'm going to do one, I'm going to do both. In the past I've used the pipe trick to remove a birf from an axle shaft but sometimes the splitting of the birf from the shaft takes a lot slamming down on the pipe. Today I tried something else. I held the axle shaft in one hand with the birf down and then smacked the bell with a 4 lb hammer. Only took two whacks and the birf popped off.
You still need to verify that the CDL Sensor is working properly. At this point you have only verified the wiring. The CDL Position Sensor at the front of the TC failing is thee most common failure to your stated problem.