Build Anyone recognize this 80
- Thread starter Godwin
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- Thread starter
- #182
For the old bushings I'm drilling out the rubber, then driving out the center metal tube, then use a sawzall to cut two lines in the outer metal portion, take a sharpened screwdriver and knock out the remainder of the bushing. For a driver to take out the center I'm using one of the large suspension bolts and a center from another old bushing.
- Thread starter
- #183
Last week @cruiserinsanity and I picked up this trailer (killer deal) Mazda REPU Trailer Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/mazda-repu-trailer-build.1373721/#post-16171444
The tongue of the trailer is a perfect place to clamp down the arms and rods of the suspension for working on the old bushings.
The tongue of the trailer is a perfect place to clamp down the arms and rods of the suspension for working on the old bushings.
.
Yuk!!
I've done the same in the past, will do the same in the future.
I use a flap wheel to lightly debur and remove rust from the holes before pressing in new ones.
A schmear of grease never goes astray when pressing stuff together
Yuk!!
I've done the same in the past, will do the same in the future.
I use a flap wheel to lightly debur and remove rust from the holes before pressing in new ones.
A schmear of grease never goes astray when pressing stuff together
- Thread starter
- #185
Front axle is in but not fully hooked up, but the important lower control arms are bolted in. The bolts for these come with thread locker.
I used the tractor to shuffle axles around and used furniture dollies to move the axle once under the Cruiser. For helping to align the bolt holes I have an old bolt from a previous bushing job that I've ground the tip for ease of insertion. Using it usually helps.
I used the tractor to shuffle axles around and used furniture dollies to move the axle once under the Cruiser. For helping to align the bolt holes I have an old bolt from a previous bushing job that I've ground the tip for ease of insertion. Using it usually helps.
- Thread starter
- #186
My old Craftsman torque wrench kinda died earlier this week. After reading through this thread Torque wrench recommendations in 2025 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/torque-wrench-recommendations-in-2025.1366058/ I decided to go with a Precision torque wrench.
Most of the front axle is back together but I'm waiting on a few parts to wrap it up. Next, on the rear.
Most of the front axle is back together but I'm waiting on a few parts to wrap it up. Next, on the rear.
- Thread starter
- #188
Nothing more than setting up the rear today in preparation to begin pulling out the unlocked axle, arms, etc. Weather over the next couple of days will dictate to some degree how much I accomplish. So much for pulling off this axle swap in a few days, looks like it'll take over two weeks. IOW, typical time frame for my wrenching these days.
What do you think of the badland jack?
- Thread starter
- #190
Considering the primitive state of my "workshop" with the large wheels it works great on this surface. The handle action is smoother than that of the Daytona. The lack of swiveling wheels is a detriment but just something to deal with. Overall a good jack.
Sounds good.
I'm limited to working on a small concrete pad in a gravel driveway. The concrete surface is so degraded and rough, the small garage jack i have here gets stuck on the pits and lumps in the concrete
When I complain that I need a bigger shop my wife tells me be happy with what you have.
Listening to you guys I think she has a strong point.
- Thread starter
- #193
When I complain that I need a bigger shop my wife tells me be happy with what you have.
Listening to you guys I think she has a strong point.
Once the 80 is out of this shop bay I'll bring in a FJ60 for a 2F swap.
When I complain that I need a bigger shop my wife tells me be happy with what you have.
Listening to you guys I think she has a strong point.
I sure do miss having a garage.
A garage can be so much more than a physical place to store stuff. It can be a refuge, a place to chill, a place to create, a place to fix things.
- Thread starter
- #195
Progress on the axle swap has been slower than I'd like but between holidays, weather, family trip, flu it's coming along about as expected. IOW 10X longer than anticipated.
Rear unlocked axle is out and locked axle with newer brake components is ready to go under. Bushing have been stripped from the 5 rear bars and that took longer than expected because three of these had non OEM polyurethane bushings which were more difficult to remove than rotted rubber bushings. I drilled out some of the bushing and sawzalled nicks in the outer sleeve then used a sharpened screwdriver to knock out the old junk.
Rear unlocked axle is out and locked axle with newer brake components is ready to go under. Bushing have been stripped from the 5 rear bars and that took longer than expected because three of these had non OEM polyurethane bushings which were more difficult to remove than rotted rubber bushings. I drilled out some of the bushing and sawzalled nicks in the outer sleeve then used a sharpened screwdriver to knock out the old junk.
- Thread starter
- #196
New OEM bushings pressed into the 5 rear arms. I did a bushing swap on our other 80 about 3 years ago. In prep for that job I had ordered a set of bushing presses from Wits End as WE was imploding. I did not receive that set of busing presses but Trail Tailor followed through with offering presses and I grabbed a set of those. I loaned these presses out to @Old Nick for the busing swap he did on his 80. With this job I've finally been able to put them to use.
The rear axle actually went back in without much trouble. A couple of thing helped. I put the wheels on furniture dollies for shifting and aligning the axle. The diff wanted to tilt nose down so I put a ratchet strap on it, hooked to a crossmember and used that to angle up the snout of the diff.
Rear is in, all major bolts installed and now only small items to finish up, and wire the lockers.
The rear axle actually went back in without much trouble. A couple of thing helped. I put the wheels on furniture dollies for shifting and aligning the axle. The diff wanted to tilt nose down so I put a ratchet strap on it, hooked to a crossmember and used that to angle up the snout of the diff.
Rear is in, all major bolts installed and now only small items to finish up, and wire the lockers.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Looking very good. You’ve put a ton of work into that rig, and it’s worth it.
Thank you for loaning me the presses.
They all need a ton of work at this age
Like you said totally worth it !
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Tell me about it…They all need a ton of work at this age
- Thread starter
- #200
Essentially finished with this axle swap. Today I connected the parking brake cable, adjusted the parking brake (it works), installed the front panhard rod, new relay rods, and adjusted the alignment. Still need to bleed brakes and wire the lockers.
Alignment with the tie rod that came with the axle was way off. I've been using TMR alignment plates for a few years with a pair of metric tape measures. I've been setting the toe at 5 mm difference between front and rear. This seems to work well. When I checked the axle there was a difference of 2 cm between front and rear, with severe toe in. I readjusted to a 5 mm difference.
Alignment with the tie rod that came with the axle was way off. I've been using TMR alignment plates for a few years with a pair of metric tape measures. I've been setting the toe at 5 mm difference between front and rear. This seems to work well. When I checked the axle there was a difference of 2 cm between front and rear, with severe toe in. I readjusted to a 5 mm difference.