Actually what I did was bypass the factory vacuum switch and plumbed the diaphragm straight to its vacuum source.
I drove around with the intake on my passenger seat testing for an hour or so with vacuum reference hooked up.
What I discovered is that less than 4” of cacuum causes the butterflies to open causing short runner operation. And all the vacuum switch did was make em shorter sooner.
So I figured short runner under load was a given. Without the switch hooked up I’m in short runner mode pretty much anytime here is he need to accelerate. Long runner mode is purely just for light throttle cruising.
The intake makes a huge difference all the way around. The injectors make a difference on everything but top end.
The entire package: injectors, intake, catback all at once makes it a different truck when you’re done. Makes you think, ‘why didn’t Toyota build it like this on the first place’. Well they did, it’s the 5.7. Haha
I take it by your statements you keep the original throttle body and only swap out the manifold and repipe vacuum lines as needed?
Have you, or have you seen plastic manifold swap into 98-02 (drive by throttle cable)?
I'm not trying to "dis" anyone. I truly have and open mind on this issue of fuel injectors and manifolds. Fact is Toyota did increase the amount of holes used over time. From pictures I've seen the 5.7L and other late models use 12 hole. Better atomization is key to efficient burn of fuel, reducing wasted fuel out the tailpipe.
But I see stuff in this thread like odometer at 368 miles and sitting at the pump now filling, without give how many gallons. That is useless data. At 368 miles what was gallons pumped in?
Our tanks are 25.4 US GAL, that less than 15MPG based on a "fill up" from empty.
Also keep in mind we actual get better MPG at higher altitudes, but lower HP

.
In my 01 I could top tank pass first auto shut off of gas pump handle (charcoal canister up front). One time I ran out of gas just before rolling into a gas station (luck). I filled it with 25.3 rig leaning with tank side lower. For grins, I swung around to another pump to lean so gas tank was on high side, filling to the neck. Took a minute of cranking to pull fuel into pump, lines, filter, rails and injectors plus burn 15 seconds worth up to start and pull around to another pump. Total was 25.8 US gallons.
I filled my 2001 up every time I got gas. I topped it squeezing pump trigger three times every time for ~14 years. I tracked miles to every gallon of gas recording on each receipt and transposing onto a spreadsheet. I drove the same routes daily with the same light footed style, tracking it all (seasons, OAT, HAVC use, lights use, radio use, etc). Found a number of things will change MPG. But basing on "filled it up" is meaningless without gallons tracked and done over time. At some point I made a change somehow, which changed when low fuel light came on (earlier), so that light is no indicate of MPG either.
If these 10 or 12 hole injectors are Chinese made or the caps to convert ours fuel injectors are Chinese made. Well, I'd not care to have on any of my rigs. I just can't see them being of a quality worth dealing with, nore surviving the test of time.
Also I'd be a little apprehensive adding wire/jumpers to adapt.
I would however, buy a quality Fuel Injector if would give better atomization without increase fuel dumped into cylinder. That is to say with approximately same or maybe even less CC throughput. Seems if better atomized less fuel would be needed not more.
I can surely see the plastic manifold adding performance (better fuel economy) to top end. The long tubes (runs) of the 2UZ manifold designed, was to improve low end torque. Shorting the runs by opening butterflies at top of runs, is simple way of shorting runs when high torque is no longer needed. The fact plastic may or may not be smooth, is not much a factor. Fact is, companies like Edelbrock stopped polishing manifold, and they actually put in cuts/swirls in manifolds to disrupt air-flow these days. What they found, was when air, more unrestricted, it actual restricts air flow. Seem I wasted my time porting and polishing my 400 CI in my GTO back in the 70's.
How do you tune these manifold in earlier models, to take full advantage of, as factory has done in the VVti?