Anyone done the York 210 oil mod...... (2 Viewers)

[flintknapper]

What if you ran the York with no oil in the crankcase?

Could the rings be replaced with a teflon type like they have in electric air compressors that have no lubrication?

-B-

B,

The crankshaft has bearings fore and aft that receive lubrication from the "splash" of oil in the crank case. Also, the rods and rod journals on the crank need to be lubed.

I was quite surprised to notice the case heating up even during the short test sequence. The bearings are large for this application, but they do need some type of lubrication.

These Yorks are built to last though, that is evident once you get one open.

 

[Beowulf]

I did not expect to see that much crankcase oil, in that short of time, pulled past the pistons and pumped into the compressor output ports. Does that much oil get in the A/C system when the York is used as designed in A/C systems?

-B-

 

[LandCrusher'70]

I did not expect to see that much crankcase oil, in that short of time, pulled past the pistons and pumped into the compressor output ports. Does that much oil get in the A/C system when the York is used as designed in A/C systems?

-B-

I might be mistaken, but I believe the proper 'oil' for a YORK is the actual refrigerant. IIRC, it's Esther Oil.

 

[flintknapper]

I might be mistaken, but I believe the proper 'oil' for a YORK is the actual refrigerant. IIRC, it's Esther Oil.

No, the refrigerant is only a vehicle for the oil (carries it). Most 134a systems use Ester or PAG oil while R12 systems generally use Mineral oil.

There are other oils compatible with either.

But... that is another topic.

 

[alia176]

Well, your efforts are truly appreciated Flint! I wonder if a thicker oil would help with the oil migration to the top of the pistons? I agree, you still need oil for lubricating the cylinders and rings.

 

[landtank]

if you are going with a different oil I'd first try the oil used in traditional compressors, or is that what is in there now?

 

[flintknapper]

Well, your efforts are truly appreciated Flint! I wonder if a thicker oil would help with the oil migration to the top of the pistons? I agree, you still need oil for lubricating the cylinders and rings.

I ran a mixture of 80wt. synthetic gear lube and Marvel Mystery Oil @ 75/25 in the units.

I was afraid to go thicker than that because it might begin to foam. I saw some evidence of that even with what I used...(at the higher fill level).

The crank "beats" the lube causing a "splash effect"...whereas a differential (and the gears) simply turn concentrically. Since gear lube is designed to climb the gears, it may not have been the best choice.

Playing around with different lubes might yield some benefit.

 

[LandCrusher'70]

I've been using Esther oil. This is what NAPA told me was the proper oil for the YORK. However, once I ran out of the jug I have, I was going to switch to a more conventional and cheaper oil. I've heard/read of guys running 10-40w.

 

[Tools R Us]

I ran a mixture of 80wt. synthetic gear lube and Marvel Mystery Oil @ 75/25 in the units.

I was afraid to go thicker than that because it might begin to foam. I saw some evidence of that even with what I used...(at the higher fill level).
...

80wt gear lube = ~25wt motor oil in viscosity. Marvel Mystery Oil has a load of detergent in it, so may add to the foaming and moving past the rings. A/C oils are formulated to be carried in and not damage/contaminate freon, not needed in this application.

My guess for a good lube in this application would be ether non detergent motor oil or hydraulic oil. Good hydraulic oils have antiwear and antifoam additives. I would start with heavy grade, ISO 150 = ~40wt in motor oil?

 

[flintknapper]

80wt gear lube = ~25wt motor oil in viscosity. Marvel Mystery Oil has a load of detergent in it, so may add to the foaming and moving past the rings. A/C oils are formulated to be carried in and not damage/contaminate freon, not needed in this application.

My guess for a good lube in this application would be ether non detergent motor oil or hydraulic oil. Good hydraulic oils have antiwear and antifoam additives. I would start with heavy grade, ISO 150 = ~40wt in motor oil?

That is very interesting Kevin, thanks!

I still have my new compressor open....waiting on a replacement gasket, so I may try some different lubes.

I appreciate the input Sir.

Flint.

 

[alia176]

It seems to me that staying away from motor oil as a whole is a good idea when it comes to this particular app. You don't need all the typical engine oil characteristics but do need a simple lubricator with anti foaming properties. Maybe that's where I went wrong by using motor oil all these years in the York? One thing for sure, don't use synthetic motor oil in there. Talk about excess oily output air!!

 

[sleeoffroad]

Way back when in my Jeep days I had a CJ7 with a factory york that I converted to oba. I tried all the available things then for getting rid of the oil discharge. Nothing worked, so I filled it with Prolong and just ran it, used a separator to get rid of it before the air got to the air tank. I ran the fluid well below the suggested level and never had the compressor lock up. I figured the Prolong was snake-oil, but hey, there must be some claims for them running those motors on TV without oil, so I figured it should work for the compressor and it did.

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks Slee,

Oil level does seem to play an important part in regards to how much gets discharged.

Appreciate the info.

 

[JonEck]

me too, me neither

I did the galley mod and I lose a lot of oil. Did you guys ever find any good homemade system to remove and recycle the discharged oil?

 

[96r50]

When I installed my OBA system (https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/315929-york-oba-install.html) I ran the line from the York directly to the tank and then up through a filter before going to the manifold. I wouldn't bother trying to recycle the oil, as it may be contaminated with water, dust or other gunk. HTH!

 

[jonheld]

There's no maybe about it. The waste that get separated in my tank and coalescing filter is about 50/50 oil water. You don't want to plumb that back in.

 

[TrickyT]

There's no maybe about it. The waste that get separated in my tank and coalescing filter is about 50/50 oil water. You don't want to plumb that back in.

x2. Between mixing it with water and the high temps it sees as part of being compressed, I'd hardly call it oil anymore. It's more like molasses.

 

[JonEck]

Thanks for the replies. I have mine mounted sideways above the alternator on my YJ. The suction port is up and I still lose about an ounce of oil filling up my two-gallon tank to 150 psi.
I've replaced the gaskets and valve plate already. Should I bother replacing the rings? Does anyone know where I can get a set?

 

[jonheld]

Jon,

You need to read through this thread. The York oil blowby is what it is. Brand new ones from the factory do this.

 

[JonEck]

Yeah, sorry about that. I do recall reading it but I saw that it was posted a few years ago and I was fishing to see if that was still the consensus. I guess it is.
I've ordered a heavy-duty coalescer off e-bay and
I'm going to put that into my system.
I'm disappointed though because you see all these guys claiming that they plugged the galley and it pretty much stopped the blow-by. I guess not everything on the internet is true, huh?