Anyone done the York 210 oil mod......

flintknapper

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Before doing a York OBA on the Cruiser....I thought I'd put one on my Early Bronco.

Got everything pretty much installed... then ran the compressor without the suction or discharge lines in place to see how much oil discharge I would have.

At anything over idle (600-800 rpm) the oil loss is significant.

Has anyone done the oil mod. (plugging the oil galley), and if so....did it help appreciably?


Thanks,

Flint.
 
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I did it, and it didn't really make much of an improvement.

I run two in-line moisture / oil filters and keep minimal oil inside the compressor.
 

alia176

 
 
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I did the same mod but I have copious amount of leakage. I thought maybe it's because of worn rings and internals?
 

flintknapper

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Having searched the internet on the subject I have found those who say it does help... and an equal number that say it does not.

I ran my compressor with the full amount of oil in the crankcase, perhaps using less would make a difference, I don't know.

One thing is certain, if it continually discharged the amount I was seeing with the engine rpm at 1800, it wouldn't be long before the unit would need more oil and my air tank and lines would be an oily mess.

There is no doubt the compressor cranks out a lot of air, so I wouldn't be running it very long at a stretch, but it definitely puts out more oil than I am comfortable with.

There has to be a good way to curtail this.
 

brownbear

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I did the mod...no idea if it made a difference. But it was simple to do when the york was out. Or in my case going in.

I pulled the pulley, and cover. Then tapped the passage and filled with a screw like an online tech writeup said to do. Really was simple.
 

jonheld

 
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I did the mod and it spews like a naughty school boy. I have my holding tank first in line before any filters and regulators. That helps with the liquid water/oil combination. After that it goes into a coalescing filter and finally a regulator.

Before a trip I make sure the sump has oil and the tank and filter bowl are clear. I've never had to add oil to the York in the middle of a weekend and I use it to swap tires and air up (myself and others) at the end of each day.
 

alia176

 
 
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I'm curious as to where the oil is sneaking in? Flint has a brand spanking new compressor so his internals are in great shape. Flnt, try using a thicker oil and see if that helps. I think the spec calls for 30W but maybe 50w, dino oil may be the answer, I dunno!
 

flintknapper

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I did the mod and it spews like a naughty school boy. I have my holding tank first in line before any filters and regulators. That helps with the liquid water/oil combination. After that it goes into a coalescing filter and finally a regulator.

Before a trip I make sure the sump has oil and the tank and filter bowl are clear. I've never had to add oil to the York in the middle of a weekend and I use it to swap tires and air up (myself and others) at the end of each day.

This is my set up also. I'm not yet convinced that the oil loss has to be as much as some report.

Logically, the mod should reduce oil loss to some degree, but how much is the question.

Thanks for your reply.

Anyone else done the mod....or can relate how much oil they use in an outing?
 

flintknapper

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I'm curious as to where the oil is sneaking in? Flint has a brand spanking new compressor so his internals are in great shape. Flnt, try using a thicker oil and see if that helps. I think the spec calls for 30W but maybe 50w, dino oil may be the answer, I dunno!

I filled it with a concoction of 75% synthetic gear oil and 25% Marvel Mystery Oil.

I would guess the viscosity to be at least 60-75.

Very little oil is expelled at idle, but there seems to be a threshold. Once engine rpm reaches 1000-1200 it starts spewing pretty good.

I am going to play with venting the crank case by installing a fitting in one of the oil fill holes and then tapping into the suction side. I may need to put a small valve in line to regulate it.

Don't know....just thinking.
 

flintknapper

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I'm curious as to where the oil is sneaking in?

The unit is lubricated in two ways:

1. Oil "Splash" within the crank case provides lubrication to the front and rear crank bearings, rods and cylinder walls.

2. Positive Pressure Differential between the crank case and suction side inlet moves oil through a galley that runs from the top of the unit (just under the plates) down to the front seal.


It is this galley that people block off in an effort to reduce oil expulsion.

Since there seems to be varying degrees of success, I must conclude that oil can still travel by another route.. or that the piston rings of a particular unit are worn to the point that they allow oil to pass into the cylinder.

In the case of worn piston rings...only replacement will fully correct the condition.

If however... there is another route for the oil to travel and it depends upon Positive Pressure Differential to move it, then I am confident I can find a way to regulate it by venting the crank case.

As many sharp minds as we have here on MUD, we must be able to come up with a good remedy to this.

I have a spare unit in good shape that I am willing to sacrifice to experimentation. So lets hear some ideas.
 

jonheld

 
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FWIW, these units were designed as AC compressors. They would have been intended to pass oil vapor through the system to some degree.
 

flintknapper

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FWIW, these units were designed as AC compressors. They would have been intended to pass oil vapor through the system to some degree.

Well, yes....I am certainly aware of that.;)

My intent is to try to confine the oil to the crank case as much as is possible without doing extensive modifications.

The York OBA is a very popular system and has been around for a lot of years, but I don't think anyone has taken the time to come up with a really effective way to control the oil distribution.

Most folks are satisfied to bolt it on and go. I can't do that.:wrench:
 

flintknapper

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Getting ready.......

Well….here it is: The “Sacrificial” York.



Got it cleaned up where I can work on it.

I plan on connecting my ½ “ drill to the crank bolt and spinning the unit at a specified rpm for all tests. Nothing scientific… mind you. My aim is simply to note how much oil discharge is present in the following forms:

(A) Stock form.
(B) With oil galley plugged.
(C) With crank case vented.

I am determined to find a way to make these A/C compressors behave more like an air compressor (with little to no oil discharge). :wrench::wrench:
 

landtank

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are the crank cases vented? If not that might be the problem. On the down/intake stroke the case would become pressurized and blow past the rings up into the cylinder.
 

alia176

 
 
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I've friends whose old, junk yard Yorks didn't leak ANY oil vs mine, which is leaky. So, I'm curious what you come up with!
 

landtank

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:hmm: No, they're not vented . . .
that's were I'd start. Drill and tap a small hole and vent it through a fitting and hose. If it solves the problem put on a small filter and T it into the intake line.

If it doesn't plug it up and go back to the drawing board.
 

flintknapper

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are the crank cases vented? If not that might be the problem. On the down/intake stroke the case would become pressurized and blow past the rings up into the cylinder.


They are not vented. In fact, they use a Positive Pressure Differential to move the lube through the oil galley to the front seal.

If a person has a unit with poorly sealing rings, venting should help some....but they will probably always have some oil escaping.

A small amount of oil is not objectionable, but the one I have installed on my Early Bronco is a real gusher. I am going to get to the bottom of this one way or another.

I don't think anyone has really played with it that much.

I have a brand new unit waiting to go on the Cruiser...and if I don't completely destroy the Sacrificial unit, it will go on my Full Size Bronco.

So, with three units...I want to make sure they are all operating correctly.

There will be small differences between the units in terms of construction, but the goal is the same (less oil discharge).

I really think the answer lies with the crank case pressure and finding other areas besides the oil galley where oil control is needed (if any).
 

flintknapper

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that's were I'd start. Drill and tap a small hole and vent it through a fitting and hose. If it solves the problem put on a small filter and T it into the intake line.

If it doesn't plug it up and go back to the drawing board.

I have that set up sitting in my shop....as we speak.

The oil fill hole is very close to 1/8" pipe thread and I am going to tap it tomorrow. I already have a fitting drilled and tapped into a brass "T" that holds the intake filters I will be using.

I am also planning on putting a small ball valve in line with the vent, so I can regulate it....or even shut it off I need to .

In fact, I'll go get pics. now.
 

landtank

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the thing to remember is that the pump was originally used for an AC application and the low side is still pressurized so it's un likely this would be an issue in that application.
 
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