Anyone blown a cylinder or 2 on your 200? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lcgeek
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lcgeek
Glad to meet you!
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- #24
Perhaps, just one of the many thoughts running through my mind...why was oil low? From shop diagnosis it was being excessively burned or going places it shouldn't.
Also dumb question - I think I have oil maint light set to a mileage interval #, but is there a sensor that reads actual oil level and throws a light when low?(like my 80
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bloc
SILVER Star
The PCV valve on these engines is known to clog and that can cause oil consumption.
gaijin
GOLD Star
Perhaps, just one of the many thoughts running through my mind...why was oil low? From shop diagnosis it was being excessively burned or going places it shouldn't.
Also dumb question - I think I have oil maint light set to a mileage interval #, but is there a sensor that reads actual oil level and throws a light when low?(like my 80
No, there is no low oil level warning light. Did you ever check the oil level using the dip stick?
lcgeek
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- #27
I knew that question was coming next. No I don't check it manually, I take it to Toy dealer every 4-5k and have them change the oil and provide anything else it might need.
Still seems a bit odd to me, a sensor and code for everything but nothing to indicate the oil might be low. Note to self: Since truck won't tell you, and dealers might not put the right amount of oil in, be sure to manually check your oil level.
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Or maybe they ****ed up and didn't put enough oil in it, you'd be amazed how long an engine will run with little to no oil then all of a sudden grenade. Anyway you can score a used engine for about $3,500 on eBay and then find an independent mechanic to do the swap. This is the trouble you face without doing any of your own maintenance, you are in the hands of service departments who IMHO are not trustworthy at all.
Not sure on the 08-2011 but the 2013 and newer will tell ya if you are low on oil
gaijin
GOLD Star
Not sure on the 08-2011 but the 2013 and newer will tell ya if you are low on oil
View attachment 1937279
You're absolutely right. I am not 100% sure that the 2008 does not have this warning - someone with a 2008 should weigh in, please.
HTH
Yes but I think only Ford numbers their engines (like the Coyote) that way. Most (all?) others number with the DS front being 1 and the odd numbers on that side. Camelback will know that's how the 5.7L is numbered.Depends on how the techs are numbering the cylinders.
Ie:
What matters right now is getting the vehicle up and running again.
Based on mileage on the engine alone, I would replace it with a good used motor. There's no reason to tear into it any further unless you have expendable cash and are really interested in knowing.
Call around and get some estimates, but don't be shocked with $10k+ answers. Also, don't cheap out and go with the lowest quotes. Go with the most dependable shop that's reasonably priced. Your concern should be about saving yourself headaches down the road.
lcgeek
Glad to meet you!
- Thread starter
- #35
Thanks for advice. Interestingly but not surprisingly a few MUD polar opposite perspectives. That's what's good about MUD I suppose. One opinion is do nothing before determining root cause, and yet another is forget about root cause and focus on replacing motor. I do appreciate all the many perspectives.
We all want to know the root cause. However with 200k+ miles on a motor that was low on oil, you're just throwing money away.
When all is said and done, take the old motor home and dig into it.
Someone with more experience please correct me if necessary on this...
Wouldn't a low oil condition cause problems at the crank; ie: spun bearings, rod knock, wrist pin knock, rough running, and eventually seizing, but not a loss of compression on only 2 cylinders. Symptoms presented here seems like a valve train issue or perhaps busted rings. I guess it could also be stuck open valves due to lack of lubrication. If the engine still runs, then you know at least that the timing chain is still intact.
@kreiten thanks for the clarification, I thought there was a sensor on the pan.
Wouldn't a low oil condition cause problems at the crank; ie: spun bearings, rod knock, wrist pin knock, rough running, and eventually seizing, but not a loss of compression on only 2 cylinders. Symptoms presented here seems like a valve train issue or perhaps busted rings. I guess it could also be stuck open valves due to lack of lubrication. If the engine still runs, then you know at least that the timing chain is still intact.
@kreiten thanks for the clarification, I thought there was a sensor on the pan.
It's not unheard of but generally bearings take a dump before anything else in an oil starvation situation (in most motors). Oil starvation causing low compression related damage would be after a few things went wrong and would mean very severe piston and/or ring and/or cylinder wall damage.
Interested in seeing the thing pulled apart. Ask for lots of pics if they do.
Interested in seeing the thing pulled apart. Ask for lots of pics if they do.
What does the shop think it is? Head gasket? Broken valve springs? You can replace those, but you'd still have a 200k+ mileage motor of unknown reliability.
To deduce they'll likely need to do a leak down test and a borescope.
To deduce they'll likely need to do a leak down test and a borescope.
RoaringFork
SILVER Star
This, the next step in diag. After compression test(esp if a problem is found) is a leak down test. That will confirm where the would be compression is going... if out the oil fill cap or breather valve, then piston/ring failure. out the tail pipe or air filter housing valve train or head gasket...
