Anyone tow a 200 on a trailer with a 200? (1 Viewer)

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kcjaz

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I want to do this but I technically can't rent a U-haul car trailer rated for the full 5765 lbs of curb weight for a stock 200. The typical rental trailer is max 5290 lbs. payload. I can find commercial trailers rated for 10,000 lbs but then the weight of the trailer plus the 200 puts me over the 8200 lb tow rating of the 200. I'm pretty sure that factor of safety would handle the extra 500 lbs but of course if any accident happened, it would be my liability regardless of if the overload was a real factor or not. Just curious if anyone has done this with their own trailer.
 
I want to do this but I technically can't rent a U-haul car trailer rated for the full 5765 lbs of curb weight for a stock 200. The typical rental trailer is max 5290 lbs. payload. I can find commercial trailers rated for 10,000 lbs but then the weight of the trailer plus the 200 puts me over the 8200 lb tow rating of the 200. I'm pretty sure that factor of safety would handle the extra 500 lbs but of course if any accident happened, it would be my liability regardless of if the overload was a real factor or not. Just curious if anyone has done this with their own trailer.
I’ve hauled a 100 with a UHaul but not a 200.. weight was pretty well distributed but it was already somewhat marginal before the added weight of the 200. If it’s a short trip on well known roads, minimal traffic, maybe weigh that risk/reward, but just wanted to offer my 2 cents.
 
I don't know that overloading a trailer makes you immediately liable in the event of an accident. It doesn't help your case in court, for sure.

Lots of people tow over the GVWR of the 200, or the GCWR of the vehicle plus trailer. I'm not necessarily encouraging you to do so, but just like the above I'm not sure that being slightly over makes you immediately liable.

I'm not sure how heavy the rental trailer is, but I suspect the trailer rental max is based on the axle rating for the trailer. Being 500# over on the trailer is bad for the trailer axle (but unless it snaps on you that's U-haul's problem haha) and if you're exceeding the weight limit on the tires that can be an issue, especially on the highway and over a long distance.

Can you find a car hauler who is deadheading and will carry it for cheap? If you're trying to haul it from KC to Springfield, MO that's ~3 hours and 200 miles, and I probably wouldn't do it with the Uhaul. Actually that's a lie I probably would, I'd just drive slow, but as I tell me kids I've done a lot of dumb things in life and you shouldn't model after me.
 
Actually that's a lie I probably would, I'd just drive slow, but as I tell me kids I've done a lot of dumb things in life and you shouldn't model after me.
I tell my kids that they should always learn from my example. The trick is just figuring out if its a good example or a bad one. Either way, its instructional. Its sort of like watching the truck in front of pick a line. No matter how it goes, you can learn something.

Also, thinking about it more, my 200 "tow rig" is at or slightly over its own GVWR and I don't have an electric trailer brake controller. Probably not a good idea to be pulling something at or slightly over my tow limit that doesn't have its own brakes (at least I'd assume e-brakes do nothing w/o the controller). I'm probably just going to borrow a real trailer and a real truck from a friend or pay a someone to haul it. $350 to $550 will get it down to Copart in Springfield.
 
In Australia when you alter the suspension like you have they alter the tow ratings down there.
 
In Australia when you alter the suspension like you have they alter the tow ratings down there.
agreed. I wouldn't be too worried about be a little over 8200 towing with my heavy springs and suspension. Its the no trailer brake controller thing that's making me give up on the idea.
 
Trailer brakes are very easy to install. etraile.com is a good place. You just plug it in and attach it somewhere near the steering wheel. There is a brake plug adapter, the and trailer brake part.
BTW U-Haul uses surge brakes, so the trailer brake will have no effect on that trailer.
 
You can rent or buy a landscape/ utility trailer rated at 7000 pounds, two axles. The mesh ramp of those trailers need a couple of 2x12’s to keep the wheels from stretching the mesh.

When my kids were in college I rescued a few cars this way.
 
I tell my kids that they should always learn from my example. The trick is just figuring out if its a good example or a bad one. Either way, its instructional. Its sort of like watching the truck in front of pick a line. No matter how it goes, you can learn something.

Also, thinking about it more, my 200 "tow rig" is at or slightly over its own GVWR and I don't have an electric trailer brake controller. Probably not a good idea to be pulling something at or slightly over my tow limit that doesn't have its own brakes (at least I'd assume e-brakes do nothing w/o the controller). I'm probably just going to borrow a real trailer and a real truck from a friend or pay a someone to haul it. $350 to $550 will get it down to Copart in Springfield.
The uhaul trailers probably have surge brakes, so you'd be ok there. Those don't require a controller, they just activate because you're decelerating. They suck, but for a single trip it's fine.

Somewhere around here I've seen people post about ways to get cheap auto transport. I think you should be able to get it hauled that distance for under $300, maybe less if you're patient. Autonation charged me $500 to transport my truck from Houston to Chicago. You're going a lot shorter distance.
 
This is when I’d fire up the ol’ AAA Premier membership and use the yearly 200 mile tow. For the $85 or so dollars, it could be worth it. But there is a 10 day waiting period for use of towing service associated with that level of membership.
 
This is when I’d fire up the ol’ AAA Premier membership and use the yearly 200 mile tow. For the $85 or so dollars, it could be worth it. But there is a 10 day waiting period for use of towing service associated with that level of membership.
Underrated piece of advice. Gotta remember that the next time I'm down at Copart :rofl:
 
No.

I would not use my LC200 to tow something that heavy (another LC200) as it is best to have an overkill margin of reserve when towing—and use my F250 6.7L PSD for those purposes.

It makes a noticeable difference especially if you are not experienced at towing (and if hills are involved).

That said, I recommend you rent or borrow a 3/4 ton or 1 ton 2500/3500 series pickup.
 
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I want to do this but I technically can't rent a U-haul car trailer rated for the full 5765 lbs of curb weight for a stock 200. The typical rental trailer is max 5290 lbs. payload. I can find commercial trailers rated for 10,000 lbs but then the weight of the trailer plus the 200 puts me over the 8200 lb tow rating of the 200. I'm pretty sure that factor of safety would handle the extra 500 lbs but of course if any accident happened, it would be my liability regardless of if the overload was a real factor or not. Just curious if anyone has done this with their own trailer.
Not telling you what to do. One trip, decent trailer with surge brakes, slow going on super flat terrain? Yeah, I would do it.
 
Would do it have done something similar. One way less than 400 miles, not in mountains, just do it. If your not comfortable just call around for hired tow but it going to cost or hopefully you have buddy with 250 or 350 size truck. Good Luck either way.
 
I tow my built (and heavy, 7000#+) 80 series quite a bit with my 200. While not purpose built for towing, the 200 does a pretty good job right up to GVWR. The only downside is fuel economy and accelerated brake wear. I would not sweat a few hundred pounds over GVWR. Mandatory would be trailer brakes (there are wireless brake controllers that are really easy to set up and install). Not mandatory but highly recommended would be rear airbags. My 200 seems to like about 1000lb of tongue weight, which keeps trailer sway to a minimum.

The fastest my 80 has ever been is on a trailer behind my 200 at 75 mph.
 
thanks for the replies. IMO, I think I would have been ok pulling the old 200 with the new one 224 miles on flat roads being careful. But, my new 200 isn't total shook out yet and I wanted to get the old one to Copart ASAP so I paid a friend to pull it down there last Monday. That also saved me a day of vacation.
 

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