Any Vintage Cruiser Mechanics in Wasatch Front / Idaho Falls / Pocatello Area?

[residualboulders]

Just reassembling my fj40. I have it running, but it's not running as well as it could.

I've had the motor rebuilt. OEM carb rebuilt by marks offroad to omit emissions equipment. Having a hard time getting it running like a sewing machine like my 82 does, but mechanic-ing has never been my best skill.

Anyone in the Wasatch Front / Pocatello / Logan / Idaho Falls area know of a reputable shop that has experience with vintage cruisers? Used to be a guy in the Ogden area but I believe he retired. I'm up in WY, but local shops don't want to work on the old stuff and the one's that have really haven't done a great job.

 

[3_puppies]

@mattressking
not sure exactly where he is located

 

[residualboulders]

@mattressking
not sure exactly where he is located

oh i thought he did transport. Met him in Evanston a while back to sell him a spare ARB bumper I had.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I think he is in Boise Id, 250 north of poky

 

[mattressking]

I'm retired from driving these days - but I'm west of Boise.

Short questions would be -

1. How's your compression,
2. Whats vac at currently (also noting elevation you are at primarily).
3. What vacuum hoses are connected and where?
4. What spark plug gap/plugs.
5. What is your timing presently with vac advance disconnected (assuming you have it).

 

[residualboulders]

I'm retired from driving these days - but I'm west of Boise.

Short questions would be -

1. How's your compression,
2. Whats vac at currently (also noting elevation you are at primarily).
3. What vacuum hoses are connected and where?
4. What spark plug gap/plugs.
5. What is your timing presently with vac advance disconnected (assuming you have it).

Brand new rebuild on the motor at a machine shop in Rigby (troys engine), so i would hope the compression is spot on. Elevation is 7300 at home 6700 in town so in that range mostly. Mark offroad built me a non usa OEM carb which omits all the emissions stuff, I think there is just the one vacuum line to the dist? I'll have to look at it when I get home. Just gapped the plugs to recommended specs from Troys Engine as they rebuilt with an RV cam, bored it out some. I don't remember the spec, I'd have to look it up. I think the timing is off and the fuel mixture is off.

 

[mattressking]

Brand new rebuild on the motor at a machine shop in Rigby (troys engine), so i would hope the compression is spot on. Elevation is 7300 at home 6700 in town so in that range mostly. Mark offroad built me a non usa OEM carb which omits all the emissions stuff, I think there is just the one vacuum line to the dist? I'll have to look at it when I get home. Just gapped the plugs to recommended specs from Troys Engine as they rebuilt with an RV cam, bored it out some. I don't remember the spec, I'd have to look it up. I think the timing is off and the fuel mixture is off.

So for me - I can't trust any shop until it has been tested so for sanity sake when tuning, you always want to know vacuum, compression, plug type, gap, timing, etc. These can't be assumed so I always recommend it is confirmed so you aren't chasing your tail.

OEM Points or electronic dizzy? Or aftermarket? Short answer all of these things need answers to move forward but I'm far from you and it would need to be confirmed for all of it for me to even attempt to diagnose remotely.

Vacuum, timing, spark are all needing to be checked and set correctly when tuning, otherwise it will affect driveability.

Next steps (for now):

1. Get a vac gauge, connect and record readings when cold and then after you've driven at ~55mph (freeway speeds) for 15min.
2. Check plug gap, .032 is good to start if points or toyota oem electronic.
3. Once above is complete and noted, start with setting timing to 13* BTDC for your elevation (+4k ft MSL).
4. Turn truck off.
5. Lightly turn mixture screw CLOCKWISE until it stops (very light touch here, don't want to use pressure). Then back off 2.5 turns CCW.
6. Start truck.
7. Then set idle speed to 690rpm with idle SPEED screw.
8. Back off mixture screw 1/4 turn at a time, race engine a couple times, check vacuum/idle speed. If it raises, reduce idle speed back to 690. Repeat until no change.
9. Final adjustment is slightly leaning mixture out down to 650rpms (this step is optional in my opinion, its for emissions). I prefer to listen to the engine.

 

[3_puppies]

further north in Bozeman MT is Stephen, Overland Cruisers
I'm even further north but not sure when I'd be able to fit another rig into my schedule

 

[mattressking]

further north in Bozeman MT is Stephen, Overland Cruisers
I'm even further north but not sure when I'd be able to fit another rig into my schedule

The more work you do for others...the less for personal stuff....it's brutal.

 

[LakeLaurashawn]

On the Wasatch Back there is a place in Kamas called 'A Rusted Development'. I haven't been there, but my neighbor has who shared they did good work.

A Rusted Development | Kamas UT

A Rusted Development, Kamas, Utah. 320 likes · 18 were here. Build and customize Toyota Land Cruisers, Suspension, General repairs, wheels and tire sales

www.facebook.com

A Rusted Development

We are your locally owned specialty automotive repair, overlanding outfitter and tire shop that specializes in 4x4 vehicles.

ardoffroad.com

Lake

 

[65swb45]

So for me - I can't trust any shop until it has been tested so for sanity sake when tuning, you always want to know vacuum, compression, plug type, gap, timing, etc. These can't be assumed so I always recommend it is confirmed so you aren't chasing your tail.

OEM Points or electronic dizzy? Or aftermarket? Short answer all of these things need answers to move forward but I'm far from you and it would need to be confirmed for all of it for me to even attempt to diagnose remotely.

Vacuum, timing, spark are all needing to be checked and set correctly when tuning, otherwise it will affect driveability.

Next steps (for now):

1. Get a vac gauge, connect and record readings when cold and then after you've driven at ~55mph (freeway speeds) for 15min.
2. Check plug gap, .032 is good to start if points or toyota oem electronic.
3. Once above is complete and noted, start with setting timing to 13* BTDC for your elevation (+4k ft MSL).
4. Turn truck off.
5. Lightly turn mixture screw CLOCKWISE until it stops (very light touch here, don't want to use pressure). Then back off 2.5 turns CCW.
6. Start truck.
7. Then set idle speed to 690rpm with idle SPEED screw.
8. Back off mixture screw 1/4 turn at a time, race engine a couple times, check vacuum/idle speed. If it raises, reduce idle speed back to 690. Repeat until no change.
9. Final adjustment is slightly leaning mixture out down to 650rpms (this step is optional in my opinion, its for emissions). I prefer to listen to the engine.

Nate, if you ever start a shop, you should paste this post into an FAQ; wonderfully concise!

OP (since I don’t recognize your screen name) unless your rings have seated, you’re chasing a moving target on timing and fuel mixture. I am so spooked about the quality of Landcruiser piston rings that I gave up building engines after 30 years because of it.

Bottom line: if your compression is closer to 120 than 150, you’re not going to be able to get anything close to stock timing and fuel mixture.

 

[residualboulders]

Nate, if you ever start a shop, you should paste this post into an FAQ; wonderfully concise!

OP (since I don’t recognize your screen name) unless your rings have seated, you’re chasing a moving target on timing and fuel mixture. I am so spooked about the quality of Landcruiser piston rings that I gave up building engines after 30 years because of it.

Bottom line: if your compression is closer to 120 than 150, you’re not going to be able to get anything close to stock timing and fuel mixture.

Hey Mark, You rebuilt this carb for me (Jake) and one for my FJ55 a few years ago. The 55 carb was awesome immediately but all I did was swap it out. This one I'm sure is awesome too but I'm chasing exhaust leaks, timing and whatever else so I'm struggling. I'm afraid I'm not as skilled as some of the guys on the forum with engine work. I'm going to have someone that knows more than me check it out Monday and see what we can find.