Another transmission thread - 2006 LX470

[ko2]

Over the past year or so my 2006 LX470 (192,000 miles with unknown transmission service history) has been slow to go from reverse to drive. This would only happen when cold and i would guess happened once every couple of weeks.

Fast forward to last night I was driving home, truck is super cold after wing night (insane how wings prices at at these days, let alone at full price) and go to do a 3 point turn and the truck takes longer than usual to go from reverse into drive.

Then as I was accelerating I noticed that it wouldn’t speed up. It felt like after a certain point no matter if I pushed the accelerator down further, it wouldn’t speed up past ~30mph. Finally after driving for about 15 minutes I believe it acted normal, though was very light on the throttle.

I have an appointment at a transmission shop next week. I would prefer to fix it myself but I don’t have space with such short notice.

My questions are:
- Has anyone else had these similar symptoms before? Did it end up going well or were you in for a rebuild?
- Reading some threads it would seem that the fluid level could be an issue. Would anyone advise “topping off” a small amount to get me to next week safely if I couldn’t do the full level check procedure?
- I need to get it about ~15 miles to the shop. Would driving it there be a bonehead move?

In the end it’s my own fault for not taking this issue seriously when it was just slow to get into gear. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Kamran Khan]

I had the same exact issue with my Lexus LS400, I did 3 transmission flushes at home by filling it up with fresh ATF cycled it through all gears and then drained. It fixed the issue of not engaging into reverse.

 

[MongooseGA]

Seconded on wing prices.

Could be a sticky solenoid in the trans, which would be an easy enough DIY. I agree on doing a fluid flush before anything else. There is discussion to be had about flushing high mileage trans, so if you're concerned, a drain and fill is a good place to start.

That it only happens when cold is telling. I just couldn't say of what.

 

[ko2]

I had the same exact issue with my Lexus LS400, I did 3 transmission flushes at home by filling it up with fresh ATF cycled it through all gears and then drained. It fixed the issue of not engaging into reverse.

Similar in the slow engagement to drive and the lack of acceleration? Glad to hear it worked out! I will definitely be doing this maintenance in the future

Seconded on wing prices.

Could be a sticky solenoid in the trans, which would be an easy enough DIY. I agree on doing a fluid flush before anything else. There is discussion to be had about flushing high mileage trans, so if you're concerned, a drain and fill is a good place to start.

That it only happens when cold is telling. I just couldn't say of what.

Thanks for the tip. I’ll take a look at the procedure for the solenoids as a precaution though I’ve never done transmission work before.

 

[Malleus]

Use the cooler line and flush the entire system, using the transmission pump. Draining the sump the night before will speed up the process. I'm not saying that'll solve the OP's problem, but it won't hurt anything but his wallet - 12 quarts of ATF is $6.98 a quart at Summit Racing (that's the cheapest I've found).

Draining and filling a transmission is a waste of money; it leaves too much oil in the cooler circuit and torque converter that is contaminated. I've said this before: it's like trying to replace the water in a swimming pool by taking water out of one end and pouring in new water in the other.

There is no reason not to remove all the debris and the old oil in a transmission. The build up of friction plate material, loose in the oil, will not "keep the transmission together" as the old wive's tale would have you believe - it actually prevents contact between the clutches and steels, and it certainly doesn't make the close fitting parts in the valve body work better. If you've ever seen the inside of a transmission, you'd know this is just not possible. Replacing old ATF in a transmission is the cheapest way to extend its life and improve the operation overall.

 

[2001LC]

It does sound like, AT is low on ATF. Since better when warmed up. Fluid expansions!
All 2004-07 are under filled, form the factory. But your symptoms, are worsts than factory low speed shutter. Perhaps someone service AT underfilled and or mixed fluids. We don't know, what fluids/lubes have been used in a used vehicle. Which is why we baseline all fluids, in a used vehicle!

As a test and or to drive to shop. You can add some Toyota WS ATF, to top off. Adding through, upper AT cooler rubber hose (see link below). Upper is the return to AT.

Personally, I would just do a full 12qt now, as a test. Since until you do, your mixing in AT fluid with unknown type/brand AT fluid. I'd use Toyota WS ATF or Mobil (Note: not the same as Mobil 1) multi vehicle full synthetic ATF.

transmission fluid change

I'll add. IIRC your rig has been flushed before. I'd just do a full flush than. Unless fluid smells burnt. But even then I get to a full flush after just a few dain & fills. You go off road so much with that beast. If trans going to fail, find out now. But I'm 90% sure, a full flush is not going...

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