Another starter thread (1 Viewer)

[mripper]

Wow, didn't realize it was so labor intensive, must be buried. Thanks for info

 

[marketShark]

Wow, didn't realize it was so labor intensive, must be buried. Thanks for info

 

[TeCKis300]

I think I've just experienced this starter issue in my driveway this morning at 109k miles.

What are the symptoms for you guys that have had this?

When I press the starter, I get a firm click, then a gentle wirring/motor noise for a few seconds, then an unclick.

Battery seems okay at 12.35V. Dash and everything powers on. Pretty sure its the starter, but just checking. Timely as I'm collecting parts to do my water pump that's weeping.

 

[TeCKis300]

From this thread - Real time STARTER help

Symptoms are a sharp click, and some whirring as the plunger pulls the engagement lever for the starter gear. Mine does sound like these classic symptoms. Interesting that the LX is so insulated, I could only really hear this with the drivers door open.

Surprised it went as quickly as it did. From always starting without ever flinching, to a single missed start after work that I thought was a fluke from me doing things too fast (started on second try), to not a single success in the 20 times I tried in my driveway.

Charged up the batt to full, with charger holding voltage at 14.5V. Still nothing.

Tried to key fob remote start as someone else had success with, and nothing.

Trying to decide if I want to spend my time tackling this. ~$450 in parts, vs ~$1200 at the stealership.

For all those over 100k miles, I'd urge you to proactively address the starter. My plans were to tow my travel trailer to a pretty remote campsite in a couple weeks. Glad she choose to fail in my driveway, than the hassle of a tow for the car AND my travel trailer.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Fwiw, I highly recommend folks learn to jump the starter in the event it fails in the same mode most do.

 

[TeCKis300]

3 hours in at a leisurely pace, and the baby is out. Catalytic midpipe is unbolted and shoved over. Manifold did not have to be taken off or unbolted at all.

Key to the operation in delivering the big starter is to take off the solenoid/relay piggybacking on the starter once it's free from the bell housing. Then it all slides out past the frame easy peasy. I anticipate once I have a new started shipped to me, it'll all go together in another 1 - 1.5 hours.

Could probably get away with just replacing the solenoid/relay but already ordered to whole contraption.

 

[jlin011]

Collective thanks to everyone for the info, looking to tackle this over the weekend on my new to me 09 with 155k on the clock.

Can anyone give me an idea on the Exhaust Manifold removal PDF, approximately which steps need to be completed to access the midpipe? I’m assuming it’s primarily the armor and plastic cover under the motor but not sure which of the remaining steps are needed.

Hope I’m not way over my head (one banana kind of guy) for a first project on the 200...

 

[TeCKis300]

To disconnect the midpipe, you only need to remove the composite cover underneath, and disconnect the 2x O2 sensors from the harness. Then it's 3x nuts on the down flange. And 2 spring loaded bolts against the rear resonator.

Just got the replacement starter shipped in , will be reinstalling everything this weekend.

 

[gentimmy]

Fwiw, I highly recommend folks learn to jump the starter in the event it fails in the same mode most do.

Have a link to this instruction??

 

[mudtracker]

Bump on the question how to jump the starter in the event it fails.
I've got 126k on mine and going to be in death valley in 2 days so I'm litterally sweating about this issue i just read
I don't think I can get a new starter installed in the next day so hoping to at least understand how to jump it if it does fail

thanks!

 

[TexAZ]

Ok cruiser experts, need help here. I was able to "Jumper" my old starter by connecting two leads of jumper cables to a long screwdriver touching the braided copper wire from the solenoid to the starter. it took a couple trys, but finally worked. If you are in a jam and get the dreaded starter,"Click" remove the heat shield and have someone push the starter button. when you hear the relay energize, clamp the jumpercable to the screwdriver and you can start the truck.

I purchased a rebuilt starter from Autozone ($155 vs dealer 356), worked on and off over the holiday weekend, probably 8 hrs total at a leisurely pace. replaced the starter. went for test drive, started a couple times no problem.
This morning go out to the truck to go to work.....no start. Dash goes dark, click, no turn over. Did check OBD codes, P335,340, 345,365,390
crank position sensor, cam position sensor, fuel...computer is not happy...
held test leads on battery while the Mrs. pushed the starter button. batter only dropped to 11.65v

my fear is bad starter from "the zone" cause it was a beeeeyotch to replace.

does anyone know of any other relay, fuse, or electrical connection that may be causing this?
Tundra forums mention a starter relay.
Duralast Relay - Starter 20282

at $70 and questionable avialability, would like to get some feedback or experience on this issue.

@bjowett have any input on new bad starter or other causes?

thanks

If you lay under the truck and look up at the passenger side of the engine you can see the starter.
You may have to remove a couple 10 mm bolts to get the tin foil heat shield loose enough to bend out of the way. Buy a long (like 2 foot) screwdriver and wrap it in tape or heat shrink to keep from sparking on other things.
It is a two person operation to get the vehicle started, but not difficult.

Good luck with your trip.

 

[mudtracker]

got it thank you very much TexAz!!!
I was also searching in the Tundra forums and came across couple examples.
I'll get the screwdiver tomorrow (wow 2ft i certainly didn't have that in my recovery box, but will now)

 

[NDizzle]

Hey guys, I'm at nearly 140k miles and I bought the truck with 124k on it. I'm trying to figure out if my starter has already been replaced. I have a Denso 280 0402 installed at the moment. According to this site, the 280 0402 replaced the 280 0372. Discontinued Denso Starters

I am just trying to look at the starter while on the vehicle - I can't get the angle that's displayed in the screenshots above.

 

[paulunm]

Given the location of the starter near the manifold, anyone thought about installing a starter heat blanket? I would think heat is a contributing factor to failures.

Wonder if it could be installed easily with the starter installed.

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[JZelnick]

Could someone post the p/n’s for the exhaust gaskets and nuts that should be replaced during this job?

 

[bloc]

Given the location of the starter near the manifold, anyone thought about installing a starter heat blanket? I would think heat is a contributing factor to failures.

Wonder if it could be installed easily with the starter installed.

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There is already a very effective heat shield in place. Or at least there was one from the factory. It is double-layer corrugated aluminum, possibly with an insulative layer inside. No need to worry with extra stuff, toyota designed this spot really well.. it's just the contactor itself that is the issue and has been so on various toyotas for decades.

Could someone post the p/n’s for the exhaust gaskets and nuts that should be replaced during this job?

This should be complete IF you remove the manifold. Some people don't, but that requires dealing with a VERY difficult to get to heat shield bolt and mangling/bending the shields a bit.

Exhaust mani gasket (1) 17173-38020
Exhaust mani nut (8) 94151-80841 (just replace)
Exhaust mani stud (8) 90126-08052 (probably won't need these but not bad to have on hand if yours are rusty)
Exhaust mani heat shield bolt (3) 91673-A0614 (these are likely rusty, just replace)
Downpipe to mani gasket (1) 90917-06066
Downpipe to mani nut (3) 90179-10070
Downpipe to mani stud (3) 90126-10033 (one of mine galled badly and broke off)
Fresh air pipe gasket (1) 17377-38010
Fresh air pipe nut (2) 94151-80600 (same part number holds on a heat shield and gets hot, which can rust. Might as well get one or two extras)
(Edit to add: oil dipstick o-ring (1) 96721-19010)

You may also need (2) 90901-05020 bolts that attach the cat pipe to the muffler. Mine were surface rusted despite the rest of the truck being pretty clean. This junction has a braided graphite gasket that can be reused.

Get some good anti-seize, (I like nickel) but keep it away from the inner flow areas of the manifold. Some can mess up o2 sensors.

If I didn't post in this thread.. I had difficulty with this job. Even planning on removing the manifold. One downpipe nut came off clean, another galled but did come off, the third broke. Couldn't get the broken stud out, so took it to a machine shop.. they basically trashed the flange and ended up cracking a weld on the manifold. So for me add $400 and a few days to get a manifold.

 

[ntsaint]

Anybody care to post a literal step by step set of instructions on how to jumper the starter on the 200? It’ll google and search as well but some firsthand knowledge will be great.

Have two weeks in CO mountains coming up and i see this...

 

[ntsaint]

@bloc

Hence the phrase in my post “I’ll google it and search as well”

keyboard warriors are on mud all the time apparently.

 

[bloc]

@bloc

Hence the phrase in my post “I’ll google it and search as well”

keyboard warriors are on mud all the time apparently.

?

Apparently also people expecting others to do everything for them.

Getting the screwdriver through to the right spot is tricky and is best explained with detailed pictures.

It would take less time for you to find the procedure elsewhere and copy/paste it here than for someone to type it out. But everyone is a keyboard warrior I guess.

 

[ntsaint]

Did i ask for a write up? No. Pics? No.

Did i say i was gonna research it myself? Yes.

Did i call your name? Hell no.

What i did was say hey, if anyone has some specific tips this would be a good spot for a pointer or two.

Christ man chill the F out.