Another starter thread

[bloc]

Have a nice day!

 

[bloc]

Could someone post the p/n’s for the exhaust gaskets and nuts that should be replaced during this job?

I added a part to my list that I forgot.. wanted to let you know specifically. If you remove the manifold you have to move the oil dipstick out of the way. The oring for that should probably be replaced:

Oil dipstick to upper oilpan oring (1): 96721-19010

 

[Lion2008]

I just replaced my starter. My Land Cruiser has 175K Miles. I had issues starting the car. I replaced the battery and after a couple of weeks, the starter went out. Only clicks could be heard when I attempted multiple times to start the car. I had to tow the car to my Toyota Dealer (Schaumburg Toyota-Illinois). It ended up costing me $1,200 (Ouch!!!). They removed the passenger wheel to replace the starter. I decided it was better to have the dealer change the starter since it is a difficult process to replace it. Also, Toyota gives you 12 months warranty in case the starter has any issues.

I would recommend using your mechanic for this to reduce significantly your cost. I used the dealer since I just moved to a new location. Otherwise, good luck changing it on your own.

The list of parts used by the dealer is below:

Qty = 1 - STARTER ASSY 281000S050

Qty = 1 - NUT, LOCK 9008017238

Qty = 3 - CLIP 9046712069

Qty = 1- CLIP 9046710210

 

[bloc]

I just replaced my starter. My Land Cruiser has 175K Miles. I had issues starting the car. I replaced the battery and after a couple of weeks, the starter went out. Only clicks could be heard when I attempted multiple times to start the car. I had to tow the car to my Toyota Dealer (Schaumburg Toyota-Illinois). It ended up costing me $1,200 (Ouch!!!). They removed the passenger wheel to replace the starter. I decided it was better to have the dealer change the starter since it is a difficult process to replace it. Also, Toyota gives you 12 months warranty in case the starter has any issues.

I would recommend using your mechanic for this to reduce significantly your cost. I used the dealer since I just moved to a new location. Otherwise, good luck changing it on your own.

The list of parts used by the dealer is below:

Qty = 1 - STARTER ASSY 281000S050

Qty = 1 - NUT, LOCK 9008017238

Qty = 3 - CLIP 9046712069

Qty = 1- CLIP 9046710210

If that’s all they listed they reused your exhaust manifold gasket and a bunch of other gaskets.. I guess it’s possible they did it with the manifold in place but I have trouble seeing a dealer going about it this way because it tweaks the manifold heat shields and is so hard to get all of the heat shield bolts back in place.

 

[Lion2008]

If that’s all they listed they reused your exhaust manifold gasket and a bunch of other gaskets.. I guess it’s possible they did it with the manifold in place but I have trouble seeing a dealer going about it this way because it tweaks the manifold heat shields and is so hard to get all of the heat shield bolts back in place.

They told me that they did not have to remove the manifold and they only played with the heat shield to remove it. I did ask about it and they told me that if they have to remove the manifold, they will replace the gaskets and manifold bolts.

 

[bloc]

They told me that they did not have to remove the manifold and they only played with the heat shield to remove it. I did ask about it and they told me that if they have to remove the manifold, they will replace the gaskets and manifold bolts.

They are toyota techs and Im not, but I am pretty competent and I couldn’t get the starter out without mangling the heat shields severely. Maybe they know a trick that I don’t.

Either way, for anyone doing this in their driveway I would advise having the manifold gasket and nuts on hand in case.

 

[Tommy Kha]

To disconnect the midpipe, you only need to remove the composite cover underneath, and disconnect the 2x O2 sensors from the harness. Then it's 3x nuts on the down flange. And 2 spring loaded bolts against the rear resonator.

Just got the replacement starter shipped in , will be reinstalling everything this weekend.

Hi,

When installing the new starter, did you also remove the solenoid from the new starter to get it past the frame or were you able to install everything intact?

 

[TeCKis300]

Hi,

When installing the new starter, did you also remove the solenoid from the new starter to get it past the frame or were you able to install everything intact?

I don't recall as it was awhile ago, but sure, no reason you can't. That would be a nice easy trick rather than contorting the whole unit out.

 

[absolvo]

Hi,

When installing the new starter, did you also remove the solenoid from the new starter to get it past the frame or were you able to install everything intact?

I changed mine 6 months ago and did not take the solenoid off and it slid in pretty easy. My problem was getting the heat shield back on.

 

[Tommy Kha]

I changed mine 6 months ago and did not take the solenoid off and it slid in pretty easy. My problem was getting the heat shield back on.

Thanks for the reply and I’m assuming you left the manifold on as well? Any tips with getting the heat shield on, now that you mention it?

Gonna tackle this baby on Sunday.

 

[absolvo]

Thanks for the reply and I’m assuming you left the manifold on as well? Any tips with getting the heat shield on, now that you mention it?

Gonna tackle this baby on Sunday.

Left the manifold on. Needed some help working it from below and working it through the wheel well.

 

[ethernectar]

Haven't read the full post (apologies) but what are the symptoms of starter failure? Is it first intermittent or is it terminal from the beginning?

Have had a couple instances of non-start, replaced the old battery but then it happened again with the new battery. Full 12.8V at the battery but no clicky-click, have not had the new battery tested under load.

 

[TexAZ]

Sounds like starter is going out. Mine was fine one day and dead the next. Be glad yours is giving some warning.

 

[bloc]

Haven't read the full post (apologies) but what are the symptoms of starter failure? Is it first intermittent or is it terminal from the beginning?

Have had a couple instances of non-start, replaced the old battery but then it happened again with the new battery. Full 12.8V at the battery but no clicky-click, have not had the new battery tested under load.

Typical starter failure for us is a click but nothing else, because it is almost always the solenoid failing not the motor itself. Dash still lit up, click on button press, but the engine doesn’t actually turn over.
Intermittent issues do happen, slowly progressing into total failure.. I’d be planning this job soon if I were you.
Since the motor is usually good it is technically possible to bypass the solenoid but it requires two people, jumper cables, and a very very long screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape. Safe to say it’s tricky.

 

[PDoyle]

Haven't read the full post (apologies) but what are the symptoms of starter failure? Is it first intermittent or is it terminal from the beginning?

Have had a couple instances of non-start, replaced the old battery but then it happened again with the new battery. Full 12.8V at the battery but no clicky-click, have not had the new battery tested under load.

Still running with the same starter or did you replace yet?

 

[kcjaz]

I've bout my replacement starter and am trying to think through and understand the steps and what all needs to be removed to get to the starter and get it out and the new one in. Seems like there is some debate on how much of the exhaust components needs to be removed. The FSM says:

Are steps 11 through 15 really all necessary? Maybe I don't understand what the "center exhaust pipe assembly" really is but when I look at exploded parts diagrams it look like it is the muffler assembly. Why would that have to come out? I can see disconnecting the "front exhaust pipe assembly" but does it really have to come out?

 

[bloc]

I've bout my replacement starter and am trying to think through and understand the steps and what all needs to be removed to get to the starter and get it out and the new one in. Seems like there is some debate on how much of the exhaust components needs to be removed. The FSM says:

View attachment 2557066

Are steps 11 through 15 really all necessary? Maybe I don't understand what the "center exhaust pipe assembly" really is but when I look at exploded parts diagrams it look like it is the muffler assembly. Why would that have to come out? I can see disconnecting the "front exhaust pipe assembly" but does it really have to come out?

Stock procedure has you remove the manifold and down pipe, then slide the starter rearward out the hole where the down pipe usually sits.

For whatever reason I could not get the down pipe to clear the song studs on the rear of the manifold without removing the mid pipe first. Also galled two of those studs badly, so the manifold was going to have to come out anyway. Even if I didn’t pull it, I didn’t see a way to get it out of the frame/body hole as others do without completely mangling the heat shields. Plus one heat shield screw in the starter is extremely difficult to get to, and I just don’t see how you’d get it back in once it’s out.

So I pulled the manifold. Fortunately toyota uses good hardware and I didn’t have problems with any of the nuts/studs.

Were I to do this again I would just follow the factory procedure from the beginning vs wrestle with the Tetris game that is trying to do it with the manifold in place. Oh and I’d definitely put anti-seize on the manifold/downpipe flange studs before loosening to try and prevent galling.

 

[dubyahard]

I've bout my replacement starter and am trying to think through and understand the steps and what all needs to be removed to get to the starter and get it out and the new one in. Seems like there is some debate on how much of the exhaust components needs to be removed. The FSM says:

View attachment 2557066

Are steps 11 through 15 really all necessary? Maybe I don't understand what the "center exhaust pipe assembly" really is but when I look at exploded parts diagrams it look like it is the muffler assembly. Why would that have to come out? I can see disconnecting the "front exhaust pipe assembly" but does it really have to come out?

I used this video for reference:

I only removed the O2 sensors on the first section off the manifold then was able to rotate and slide it rearward out of the way.

 

[kcjaz]

I used this video for reference:

I only removed the O2 sensors on the first section off the manifold then was able to rotate and slide it rearward out of the way.

Thanks this is helpful. I decided yesterday that I will just have the dealer do this but now I am going back and forth again. The dealer quoted only 3 hours to do the work. I don't believe that and suspect after they really look at it, they will call me and tell me its more like 6 or 7 hours. They have played that game with me before.

 

[kcjaz]

Stock procedure has you remove the manifold and down pipe, then slide the starter rearward out the hole where the down pipe usually sits.

For whatever reason I could not get the down pipe to clear the song studs on the rear of the manifold without removing the mid pipe first. Also galled two of those studs badly, so the manifold was going to have to come out anyway. Even if I didn’t pull it, I didn’t see a way to get it out of the frame/body hole as others do without completely mangling the heat shields. Plus one heat shield screw in the starter is extremely difficult to get to, and I just don’t see how you’d get it back in once it’s out.

So I pulled the manifold. Fortunately toyota uses good hardware and I didn’t have problems with any of the nuts/studs.

Were I to do this again I would just follow the factory procedure from the beginning vs wrestle with the Tetris game that is trying to do it with the manifold in place. Oh and I’d definitely put anti-seize on the manifold/downpipe flange studs before loosening to try and prevent galling.

Put anti-sieve on BEFORE loosening manifold flange studs? You mean soak them with penetrant oil first? Are there any concerns with using penetrant oil (or anti-sieve for that matter) regarding the cats and O2 sensors?