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Welcome and congrats, what a great find!

Regarding the clutch master cyl. leak - since it has been sitting I would recommend replacing the clutch slave and master. I have owned 60's for many years and the only time I have been stranded in one is when the hydraulic clutch system failed. It is relatively easy and inexpensive to replace and bleed the whole system, and well worth it for the peace of mind. There are several great vendors on this website who can hook you up with the correct OEM quality (AISIN) parts for your build date.
 
Oh, and go to city racer llc and get this total unnecessary but great shift knob. Old one just twists off.

1644344874831.png
 
Start checking out @wngrog 's patina builds for good ideas. He uses the CityRacerLLC wheels and other components. City racer has good prices on their parts too.
Congratulations on the new 2 u rig. 60's are simple and great trucks to work on compared to the newer LC's.
 
Holy smokes. Looks like it was sitting in a climate-controlled, weather-proof "field". Rebuilt motor AND a 5 speed? Really, really nice score.
 
Thanks for all the responses. There’s a lot of great info here. I’m still waiting on the tire shop so I haven’t driven it. I’m trying not to spend money making it look good until I know that I have a solid runner, not an easy thing to do. It looks like I need to tackle the steering knuckles sooner rather than later. I’ve been reading up on the procedure here and watching some u-tube. It looks like a project that I can handle as long as I can fit it into my schedule. The actual work doesn’t look too time consuming but the cleanup is another story. I’m going to reach out to the POs mechanic to see if he’s replaced any driveline parts recently. Any suggestions on things to look at or parts to have on hand when I rebuild the knuckles?

146C562C-77C4-47ED-A43E-7328C049A220.jpeg
 
Any suggestions on things to look at or parts to have on hand when I rebuild the knuckles?

In your case, many sets of brass/steel bristle brushes from Harbor Freight ;) They will become so gross and mangled, you'll likely toss some of them out after the project.
 
Knuckle rebuild....

Step one: go here FSM - 1984 - 1990 Repair Manual, Chassis/Body - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/1984-1990-repair-manual-chassis-body.1/ and click the download button. Read the FA section.

grease rags, at least 2 rolls of paper towels, box of nitrile gloves, multi purpose grease, moly grease,

tools: Snap ring pliers like this:
1644888892181.png


54mm hub socket, spring tension gauge like you would use to measure a fish, torque wrenches ft/lb and inch/lb and adapter for the inch lb so you can put the 54 mm socket on it., brass drift for knocking out seals, tapping on bolt heads to remove cone washers and removing knuckle spindle. mm wrenches 10,12,14, maybe 17, fork or tool to disc the tie rod from the knuckle arm or maybe just whack the side of it with a BFH. A hooked shaped pick might come in handy for pulling gaskets. Seal puller or small prybar to remove the outer axle seal.
 
Of course it took longer than expected but the knuckle refresh went well. A few things are making me question the P.O.s mechanic, he’s a well known and respected guy but looks like I’ll be double checking more of his work…

The tires came in and I got to put some miles on it for the first time. It sure is fun to drive! The steering has a little slop but not too bad. Tie rod ends are solid so I’ll have to look elsewhere for the issue. Starts easily on cold mornings and drives good once warmed up. The power is…. well it is measured in CCs 😂 The windshield wipers “flop” onto the hood. With the snow and rain we get I’ll need to fix this. As you guys mentioned I’ll be replacing the clutch master/slave for piece of mind. I’ve had a slave fail on a dirt bike during a technical ride. I was able to finish the ride by stopping on hills, starting up in neutral, coasting down and meshing gears. I doubt that’ll work with the FJ 😁 I’d like to replace the body mounts but I’m not sure if I can do that myself. I haven’t done any research, is this an easy DIY job?

After my test drive I woke up to a puddle under the transfer case 🤬. There were signs of leaks but nothing fresh. I guess driving it revealed some old issues. I fear this will be my top priority for a while. While I think I could fix it, my time is limited. But then again so is my wallet. I’ll drop the skid plate, clean it up, determine the source of the leak(s) and then make a decision on how to proceed. I may start a new thread for the refresh…. Does anyone know of any good mechanics within a days drive of 81301? CO, NM, AZ or UT

431A6F21-7A76-46A8-8FBF-01F8753DAA9B.jpeg
4783E639-5364-4A94-BBB0-EE9482DF2731.jpeg
 
TheDurangoKidd said:
Of course it took longer than expected but the knuckle refresh went well. A few things are making me question the P.O.s mechanic, he’s a well known and respected guy but looks like I’ll be double checking more of his work…

The tires came in and I got to put some miles on it for the first time. It sure is fun to drive! The steering has a little slop but not too bad. Tie rod ends are solid so I’ll have to look elsewhere for the issue. Starts easily on cold mornings and drives good once warmed up. The power is…. well it is measured in CCs 😂 The windshield wipers “flop” onto the hood. With the snow and rain we get I’ll need to fix this. As you guys mentioned I’ll be replacing the clutch master/slave for piece of mind. I’ve had a slave fail on a dirt bike during a technical ride. I was able to finish the ride by stopping on hills, starting up in neutral, coasting down and meshing gears. I doubt that’ll work with the FJ 😁 I’d like to replace the body mounts but I’m not sure if I can do that myself. I haven’t done any research, is this an easy DIY job?

After my test drive I woke up to a puddle under the transfer case 🤬. There were signs of leaks but nothing fresh. I guess driving it revealed some old issues. I fear this will be my top priority for a while. While I think I could fix it, my time is limited. But then again so is my wallet. I’ll drop the skid plate, clean it up, determine the source of the leak(s) and then make a decision on how to proceed. I may start a new thread for the refresh…. Does anyone know of any good mechanics within a days drive of 81301? CO, NM, AZ or UT

View attachment 2941059View attachment 2941060
Click to expand...


you forgot your #7 AISIN / ASCO new bling bolts ? :cool:




vintageteqparts.com

ASCO & AISIN HIBS HUB Dials DIAL #7 Gold Zinc Bolts kit qty x 12 pcs for 1 complete front axle FJ40 FJ60 FJ55 - VintageTEqParts.com

ASCO & AISIN HUB DIALS HUBS Dials #7 Gold Zinc Bolts kit qty x 12 pcs for 1 complete...
vintageteqparts.com


1646213720868.png

1646213747585.png

1646213774889.png
 
Nice job on the knuckles. Looks like you replaced the disc, calipers and studs while you where in there. Nice. that takes some dedication to drive out the old studs and press in new ones to get all that done. Is that a new hub too?

You'll prob find the leak is from the RMS aka rear main seal of the engine. This is a common leak. If it's like a tablespoon per day I'd let it ride. If it's massive like a quart then you have to deal with it. Unfortunately the only way to get to the RMS is to remove the transmission, the clutch and the flywheel. Oh, I suppose you could have some gear oil leaking from the t/case but less likely.

do some searches on replacing a rear main seal. There's a lot written on it here.

This is an FJ:

1646234286500.png


so, let's call yours a"60".
 
g-man said:
Nice job on the knuckles. Looks like you replaced the disc, calipers and studs while you where in there. Nice. that takes some dedication to drive out the old studs and press in new ones to get all that done.
Click to expand...

Agreed here. Those studs are the biggest PITA of replacing the discs to me. Had some shear on me recently and had to get new ones. I don't have the proper press to make it easy so have to find someone who does. Some day I'll get one and make my life better. Good job OP.
 
ToyotaMatt said:
you forgot your #7 AISIN / ASCO new bling bolts ? :cool:
Click to expand...

Thanks Matt, I wish I had these on hand at the time. At least they are easy to change, I'll be adding these to the 'to do' list.


g-man said:
Nice job on the knuckles. Looks like you replaced the disc, calipers and studs while you where in there. Nice. that takes some dedication to drive out the old studs and press in new ones to get all that done. Is that a new hub too?
Click to expand...

g, the old studs came out fairly easy. When I removed them from the 60 I hit them with some PB Blaster and they sat until the end of the project. Just a few smacks with BFH and they came right out. I wasn't willing to swing the BFH hard enough to drive the new ones in. A friend let me use his 12 ton press (no dies). We had to get creative to support the assembly and give the studs clearance. Some scrap 8020 worked like a charm. As always the right tools make the job go faster, easier and safer. Although the snow didn't help.

The hubs are stock. Hit them with a wire brush, de-greaser, primer and a few coats of semigloss black. I don't expect it to last long but they look good now and it gave me something to do while waiting for parts to dry.
 
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