Hey Guys,
Got the right hand side apart, cleaned and starting to reassemble. I put the shims that were on top and bottom back where they were when I disassembled things and torqued the steering arm nuts and bottom bearing retainer nuts to 50 ft lb as in Coolerman's excellent write-up. I could tell by the feel that it was way to loose and got only about 2 lb on my fish scale. Did a little further reading and saw my FSM called for something I've forgotten up to 76 ft lb. I tightened all the nuts to 70 ft lb and got a little more but still only a little more than 3 lbs. Pulled everything apart to check shim thicknesses. I don't have a micrometer but used my dial caliper and measured the top total at about 0.060, made up of either 1 @0.020 and 1 at 0.040 or 3 at 0.020. The thick one looks like maybe 2 0.020 stuck together but I haven't been able to separate them. The bottom was 0.040 made up of 2 @ 0.020.
My rebuild kit (Cruiser Corps) has 8 "thin" at 0.008-0.010 (darn caliper!) and 8 "thick"at 0.019-0.020 shims. Do thicknesses of 0.010 and 0.020 sound pretty typical for a rebuild. That would be about 0.25 and 0.50 mm.
What do those with experience suggest I do to increase the pre-load? I'm thinking of reducing the top from 0.060 to 0.040 and the bottom from 0.040 to 0.020. Is this too much of a reduction? I'll be running 33" tires mostly off-road and I've heard I want around 10 lb of pre-load. Does that sound about right? I'm asking because it's a bitch getting the top arm and lower cap off after everything is assembled to change the shims. I've put in the new Koyo knuckle bearings.
I haven't driven the rig with the 33" tires but used to drive highway speeds of 55 - 60 with 31" with no wobbles or any shake. I wish now I would have measured the pre-load before I tore everything down. I was/am really surprised that the existing shims gave me only 3 lbs or so pre-load.
Options welcome!
Thanks,
Pete
Got the right hand side apart, cleaned and starting to reassemble. I put the shims that were on top and bottom back where they were when I disassembled things and torqued the steering arm nuts and bottom bearing retainer nuts to 50 ft lb as in Coolerman's excellent write-up. I could tell by the feel that it was way to loose and got only about 2 lb on my fish scale. Did a little further reading and saw my FSM called for something I've forgotten up to 76 ft lb. I tightened all the nuts to 70 ft lb and got a little more but still only a little more than 3 lbs. Pulled everything apart to check shim thicknesses. I don't have a micrometer but used my dial caliper and measured the top total at about 0.060, made up of either 1 @0.020 and 1 at 0.040 or 3 at 0.020. The thick one looks like maybe 2 0.020 stuck together but I haven't been able to separate them. The bottom was 0.040 made up of 2 @ 0.020.
My rebuild kit (Cruiser Corps) has 8 "thin" at 0.008-0.010 (darn caliper!) and 8 "thick"at 0.019-0.020 shims. Do thicknesses of 0.010 and 0.020 sound pretty typical for a rebuild. That would be about 0.25 and 0.50 mm.
What do those with experience suggest I do to increase the pre-load? I'm thinking of reducing the top from 0.060 to 0.040 and the bottom from 0.040 to 0.020. Is this too much of a reduction? I'll be running 33" tires mostly off-road and I've heard I want around 10 lb of pre-load. Does that sound about right? I'm asking because it's a bitch getting the top arm and lower cap off after everything is assembled to change the shims. I've put in the new Koyo knuckle bearings.
I haven't driven the rig with the 33" tires but used to drive highway speeds of 55 - 60 with 31" with no wobbles or any shake. I wish now I would have measured the pre-load before I tore everything down. I was/am really surprised that the existing shims gave me only 3 lbs or so pre-load.
Options welcome!
Thanks,
Pete
