Right on. Thank you I will dig into it this weekend and see if adding some girth to the snap ring will help.
Another CV Axle Discussion Thread
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All right, so I had a little more time today to play with the axle and i'm still stumped. I removed the flange and was able to move back the axle (away from me) and then pull it hard towards me to try and get it to seat fully but it sounds like it's getting hung up on something. You can hear the distinct metal clank as it bottoms out without filling the gap. I know the snap ring needs to be replaced with a bigger one based on the gap thats present with the current one. But am not sure what good it will do if there's still a gap I can't close between the CV axle and hub.
I inspected the inside of the lip where it mounts to the back of the hub for debris and found none. Should I try to give it some light taps with a hammer? If so, where? Is it possible this is a normal gap even though the other side is more flush? Does anyone else have a gap that big?
I inspected the inside of the lip where it mounts to the back of the hub for debris and found none. Should I try to give it some light taps with a hammer? If so, where? Is it possible this is a normal gap even though the other side is more flush? Does anyone else have a gap that big?
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Your test method is not a good one. To get the outer tulip to fully seat against the back of the knuckle, the flange has to be installed and you need to use something like @TheForger tool to pull the shaft and outer tulip out so that the tulip is flush against the knuckle. Then install the appropriately sized circlip.
I understand that, but i've never had an issue seating the axle on the knuckle (thank you for the correction) I've taken the thing apart a dozen times. It seems like something is blocking it from fully seating and i'm concerned forcing it with the axle puller wont do anything/damage something.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
There are only 3 things that could be blocking it: 1) a damaged roller in the needle bearing, 2) a damaged or not fully seated spindle bushing, 3) a damaged or not fully seated knuckle seal.
But since you can get the outboard shaft through the knuckle and spindle, then the needle bearing is probably not a culprit.
Is the 'gap' even all way around or is it greater at some point (top) than others? Hard to tell from the photo?
I ask...because IF the gap is not even all the way around then it might point to an issue with the steering knuckle alignment.
I'm glad you asked because the gap is non-existant at the top, but at the back, front and bottom (facing of the car) the gap is as shown in the picture I posted.
OK.
To me....that would suggest that the steering knuckle (for some reason) is not perpendicular to the axis of the CV shaft OR the needle bearing/bronze bushing has significant wear and are allowing the CV to sit inside the spindle at an angle (the more likely scenario).
In either case....changing the C-Clip would not alter the relationship.
I believe closer inspection of the steering knuckle or ball joints will reveal your issue. I just don't see the C-Clip doing anything but moving the CV slightly inward or outward a few thousandths if the gap is not even all the way around, which you say it is not.
Back at it again today, I removed the caliper to get a better look and made the following observation. Why is the top of the axle gap free but the bottom and sides have gaps? I peaked at the back of the knuckle and it looks like the spindle bushing(?) is crooked. See picture below.
Now here’s my question;
1) Can I take off the knuckle and tap it back on straight? Seems like this would be the quickest easiest way.
A) If above applies, how far does the bushing need to go back in, does it go flush with the knuckle?
2) Use the axle puller to force it back in straight.
3) Leave it alone, it’s not affecting anything. However, I’m concerned if it’s cockeyed in there like that, it will throw off the geometry of the axle and cause a vibration. No?
4) I’m going in the wrong direction with the above and need to go back to the drawing board / put it back together and forget it.
It does appear the bushing is in there crooked. IF a significant amount, then it probably has 'wear' by now and the needle bearing is having to bear most of the alignment duties.
I would pull the steering knuckle and inspect more closely. See what you find. But I don't believe you'll be able to correct it by pulling on the axle harder or changing out C-clips.
The trouble with having that much gap is that contaminants are sure to make their way into the bushing/needle bearing and cause damage to those two items as well as wear the CV shaft.
I would pull the steering knuckle and inspect more closely. See what you find. But I don't believe you'll be able to correct it by pulling on the axle harder or changing out C-clips.
The trouble with having that much gap is that contaminants are sure to make their way into the bushing/needle bearing and cause damage to those two items as well as wear the CV shaft.
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I made a home-made axle puller and reassembled everything back together. The gap is now half as big as it was before. Also noting that I used the correct sized snap rings.
Idk, I’m not too worried about it… the axle has 2 rubber seals that keep dirt/dust out and even then there’s still so little tolerance for stuff to get inside.
Looks OK. Clean it up....replace that seal (it is worn) repack and 'Run It'. A good amount of work for the peace of mind, but probably worth it.
Has anyone seen the new Napa Extreme Environment axles that they're selling? It looks like this is a new offering for the 100 series. Apparently, this line is specifically designed for lifted trucks, and the axles are meant to operate at a much steeper angle.
I have some leaking axle seals and I could use new ball joints and bushings all around, so I thought about putting these in at the same time. I'd love to hear anyone else's experience with these if anyone has them.
It looks like a stock photo on the site because it's definitely not the correct axle shown.
I have some leaking axle seals and I could use new ball joints and bushings all around, so I thought about putting these in at the same time. I'd love to hear anyone else's experience with these if anyone has them.
It looks like a stock photo on the site because it's definitely not the correct axle shown.
For a little over half the price of an OEM one, I’d rather take my chances with OEM. Knowing already it has gotten me to 260k miles has me sold.
I hear ya. I guess I'm looking at them as being a potential upgrade for a lifted application. And you can get them on Napa for 30% off right now which brings them down to $188. That makes them a little more enticing.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
So you installed one of those “reman” $hitters with bad splines anyways?
No, sir. Brand new $510 axles. Both of the reman'd axles were returned.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
New OEM axles have yellow bands/clamps on the outer boot.
