Another 55 added to the bunch....... (1 Viewer)

[DieselFJ]

I got a couple more things done today, front door LH and RH speaker grills and door panel installed. I liked the way they turned out.

 

[DieselFJ]

I also was testing the switches on the dash and found that my rear heater was intermittent, I could push start the fan, and it would run, but if it sat for more than 10 seconds it wouldn’t start back up. So I decided to take the blower motor apart and see if I could see anything obvious. As you can see by the picture the problem was obvious. I cleaned it up, greased it, and put it back together, everything works great now.

 

[DieselFJ]

Got a few more things done today, nothing overly exciting, but at least it’s progress. Played around with some expand a foam for dash repair, worked great. I wish I would have had a before picture, but I couldn’t see the gauges since the vinyl was warped and pulled away from the foam, but after some strategic placed paint cups and clamps it seems to be a pretty solid repair. I also cracked into the tailgate regulator and motor. The gear is broke, but still in working order. I’d love to find a replacement before I put it back together.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Good job on that repair.

 

[DieselFJ]

From today, I thought I’d look into why the dimmer switch wasn’t working, not that it’s a big problem in a 55, but I like things to work like they should. Anyway, I found a break in the rheostat coil loop. I believe I can repair the break, just need to get a fine tip soldering iron to reach the location and get the solder in the right spot.

 

[J Mack]

I believe I can repair the break

That's most likely some form of "nichrome wire".
You don't usually see resistor wire soldered when it's used as a resistor.

 

[DieselFJ]

@J Mack thanks, input is much appreciated. I was hoping I might be able to get away with it being that it is just a rheostat so I wasn’t overly concerned about exact resistance values, but I wasn’t thinking about the bonding issue. Back to the drawing board.

 

[J Mack]

It can be done with solder just not standard solder.

Dynagrip #430 kit.

Airgas - -

Esab® All-State® 1/32 DynaGrip 430 Cadmium Free Silver Solder Kit comes in a 0.5 lb carton and is ideal to use on food, potable water and plumbing-related applications. It will join all combinations of ferrous and nonferrous metals except aluminum, magnesium and titanium. Kit contains 4'...

www.airgas.com

 

[DieselFJ]

Since I don’t have the right materials to try a solder repair I decided a physical connection would be the best. I drilled out the copper river, re-looped the wire, and reinstalled it. I lost about a 2.5 loops due to some burned wire further up from the break, but I was able to re-loop the wire and put it back under the rivet and solder the rivet back into place. I used some superglue to keep the wires separate, lubed everything and put it back together. I metered the rheostat and it works as expected, from .2 - 10. Should last this time, with LED lights it should keep the current draw down.

 

[DieselFJ]

Here’s the next repair. Temperature sensor wiring and connector.

 

[DieselFJ]

I was thinking about adding a carburetor cooling fan back in, I’ve got three FJ40 ones and only one 55 one for my ‘79. Anyone have a 55 carb fan and sensor they want to part with? I’ll be adding this to the wanted section as well.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Very crafty!

 

[J Mack]

with LED lights it should keep the current draw down.

Do your LEDs dim with a resistor or need a PWM to dim them?

 

[DieselFJ]

The LED’s I bought said they are dimmable with a dash dimming switch, but I don’t have the bulbs yet so I guess I’ll find out when they show up, if they don’t then this repair was all for not, but still fun to do. The bulb I put in the center dash light wasn’t dimmable so it didn’t work. Neither did the bulb in the light switch.

 

[J Mack]

The LED’s I bought said they are dimmable with a dash dimming switch, but I don’t have the bulbs yet so I guess I’ll find out when they show up,

If not do a duck duck go search for "12v pwm led dimmer".
Your repair of the factory dimmer was good tech regardless if it works for your LEDS or not.
Thanks

 

[mmcinnis]

Damn killer repair, most guys like me would of searched for a new one.
Mike
Love the dash repair also

 

[DieselFJ]

Well, nothing overly exciting, but I thought I’d post an update. I finished the rear door panels minus the door handle bezels which should be on their way. I cleaned and lubed the rear tailgate regulator and will be installed once a few pieces and repairs are finished on the gate. I did find some license plate lights and a carb cooling fan in my parts but I still need to get them replaced since they were for my ‘79. That’s about it, pictures below.

 

[DieselFJ]

So, I’m learning a lot about 55’s and their radiators, the only 55 I can tell that ran a fan clutch was 1/79 to 80. This setup had a special radiator which was 2” to allow for the clearance. I didn’t realize this, I thought it was just a location change not a radiator change. So I guess now I get to cut sheetmetal to make this all work. It’s still much easier than making the 60 radiator fit so I guess my radiator purchase wasn’t all for not. Anyway pictures of what I’m dealing with.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Something I didn't know either. Looks like where you're going to trim is getting into the hood latch mounting, more problems.

EDIT....Never mind, looks good, bolts might get close to rad. though.

 

[Pigeaten]

Ah, yes I forgot to add the link above, I was considering that option as well, but everything I see is from Bancock Thailand, and I believe aftermarket, but maybe just the last of the NOS for that part. Since they didn't look exactly like the factory lights I was considering other high quality low cost options. BTW, I checked a few part numbers and from what I can tell they are NLA from Toyota, but I could be wrong, I only checked a few years and a few models.

Thanks


I'm thinking I may be too cheap to own a 55..............

only $5000, pony up!