Yup. And studs feel right when they torque.
Another 2013 head gasket goes kaput
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Yup. And studs feel right when they torque.
How much can you machine these heads before interference is a problem?
I’d skip the mechanical abrasive tool cleaning the surface.
If you do end up disassembling the head for machine work is using the engraver tool not a thing anymore? I could be highlighting my age or incompetence but back when I worked in a shop we just labeled the combustion side of the valves and combustion chamber before disassembly, then it all went to the parts washer.
I’d skip the mechanical abrasive tool cleaning the surface.
If you do end up disassembling the head for machine work is using the engraver tool not a thing anymore? I could be highlighting my age or incompetence but back when I worked in a shop we just labeled the combustion side of the valves and combustion chamber before disassembly, then it all went to the parts washer.
I've done countless 22R engines and several 3VZ, cleaning heads and decks with the Scotch bright biscuits, always worked really well.
This is a 22RE I did back in 2012, but you can see how I kept the valves organized with old muffin pans. One row for intake, one for exhaust, one for keepers and caps. Put a splash of Gumout in each cell to clean after lapping.
This is a 22RE I did back in 2012, but you can see how I kept the valves organized with old muffin pans. One row for intake, one for exhaust, one for keepers and caps. Put a splash of Gumout in each cell to clean after lapping.
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- #44
So I might need to get two more muffin trays…
Goodwill, Savers, yard sales, Craigslist... Dollar Store.
I’m sorry to see you dealing with this @bloc. But if mine ever goes I know who I’m asking for help now 
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
Exactly this- and CO is a lot closer than ILI’m sorry to see you dealing with this @bloc. But if mine ever goes I know who I’m asking for help now
I have plans to solve THAT difference in a few years.Exactly this- and CO is a lot closer than IL
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- #49
I was gonna say.. still haven't been to IL but I go to CO a few times most years..
Almost $2k at the dealer parts counter, and that was with a significant savings. I've been working with a couple of the guys there since my 80-series days and they usually hook me up because I make their job easier by bringing part numbers.
That price is for an engine overhaul gasket set, valve springs, plugs, water pump, belt, fan bearing bracket (mine isn't feeling great with less than 100k on it), SLLC and ATF-WS (needed this anyway), two types of FIPG, chain tensioners, and a bunch of odds & ends like exhaust nuts and various small coolant hoses. They had the starter connector on-hand, which tells me what happened to mine isn't rare.
Most of those parts should be here tomorrow.
Already had motor mounts and a starter sitting on the shelf.
ARP head studs got ordered this morning. Injectors will go in the mail to to RC later today.
Currently degreasing everything and will work on a plan for the heads today. Apparently auto machine shops are getting a lot more rare, and the closest one I trust is over an hour away. That means just bringing them down there to have a look isn't feasible.. I'd probably want to tear them down beforehand.
Almost $2k at the dealer parts counter, and that was with a significant savings. I've been working with a couple of the guys there since my 80-series days and they usually hook me up because I make their job easier by bringing part numbers.
That price is for an engine overhaul gasket set, valve springs, plugs, water pump, belt, fan bearing bracket (mine isn't feeling great with less than 100k on it), SLLC and ATF-WS (needed this anyway), two types of FIPG, chain tensioners, and a bunch of odds & ends like exhaust nuts and various small coolant hoses. They had the starter connector on-hand, which tells me what happened to mine isn't rare.
Most of those parts should be here tomorrow.
Already had motor mounts and a starter sitting on the shelf.
ARP head studs got ordered this morning. Injectors will go in the mail to to RC later today.
Currently degreasing everything and will work on a plan for the heads today. Apparently auto machine shops are getting a lot more rare, and the closest one I trust is over an hour away. That means just bringing them down there to have a look isn't feasible.. I'd probably want to tear them down beforehand.
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How many miles are on your Sequoia?
205k. Maybe 208.
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- #53
The universe…
As may of you know the snow had been terrible this year. Most years one of my bigger trips is a powder chase.. sit back in February with the gear and rig ready to go, watching what the weather does in the hope of showing up somewhere in the Rockies just before they get hammered and I can bomb down the mountain in hopefully chest deep powder.
Well… if my HG had waited two weeks to go, I’d be in the middle of that trip. Colorado is finally getting a real storm, and I’m here in Texas with my engine torn apart. Bittersweet.. I’d rather be riding but dealing with this a thousand miles from home, most likely destroying the engine in the process..
Pictures of heads ripped apart later today. Still undecided on resurfacing. It would make me feel better but the machine shop is saying up to two weeks.
As may of you know the snow had been terrible this year. Most years one of my bigger trips is a powder chase.. sit back in February with the gear and rig ready to go, watching what the weather does in the hope of showing up somewhere in the Rockies just before they get hammered and I can bomb down the mountain in hopefully chest deep powder.
Well… if my HG had waited two weeks to go, I’d be in the middle of that trip. Colorado is finally getting a real storm, and I’m here in Texas with my engine torn apart. Bittersweet.. I’d rather be riding but dealing with this a thousand miles from home, most likely destroying the engine in the process..
Pictures of heads ripped apart later today. Still undecided on resurfacing. It would make me feel better but the machine shop is saying up to two weeks.
Just out of curiosity, has anyone considered head studs when doing a head gasket job? Not to deal with power but for potentially a more consistent clamping distribution? Don't know if this would help, just something that came to mind.
Not something I've specifically done on 3URs, but typically use ARP head studs on our builds.
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- #57
This is a whole lot of valves.
They all seem fine from the outside. No springs were any weaker than the rest, at least from what I could feel. Still I have the new ones so they'll get replaced.
I don't really like the look of some of the exhaust valve seats. I only looked closely at one head so far, but all but two of the seats had a strange surface marking that to me justifies doing some lapping. I can't see or feel anything I'd consider pitting but the appearance...
These are two of the worst on this head. I'll check the other head soon.
I'll get the other head on the bench today and give it a close look. Maybe clean the bottom of one valve and do a test lap to see what happens. Also see what I can do with the areas of gasket mating surface I don't love.. that'll probably determine whether I accept the delay that waiting on the machine shop would require.
@clrussell called it. I'm not sure they are necessary but it wasn't a large extra cost so I just ordered them. And if I screw something up they are reusable.
I do suspect installing the heads with them will be interesting. Typically they get installed into the block before the head is laid down, partly to ensure they all get installed to the correct depth and threads are clean, nothing is left on the gasket mating surface, etc. But I suspect getting the head back over them with the exhaust manifolds already on the heads will be impossible. For the passenger side that wouldn't be the end of the world.. I have that downpipe out and can fish the manifold up through the gap. But the driver side is a whole different thing. With the fuel and KDSS lines running along the frame rail the access to the bolts is severely restricted. Plus that downpipe is much more difficult (if not impossible in my driveway) to remove.. I'm pretty sure those bolts into the muffler assembly are completely seized based on the corrosion appearance, on top of not even being sure I can fish the downpipe out over the crossmember without a lift anyway.
So when I get everything cleaned up I'll explore my options.
They all seem fine from the outside. No springs were any weaker than the rest, at least from what I could feel. Still I have the new ones so they'll get replaced.
I don't really like the look of some of the exhaust valve seats. I only looked closely at one head so far, but all but two of the seats had a strange surface marking that to me justifies doing some lapping. I can't see or feel anything I'd consider pitting but the appearance...
These are two of the worst on this head. I'll check the other head soon.
I'll get the other head on the bench today and give it a close look. Maybe clean the bottom of one valve and do a test lap to see what happens. Also see what I can do with the areas of gasket mating surface I don't love.. that'll probably determine whether I accept the delay that waiting on the machine shop would require.
@clrussell called it. I'm not sure they are necessary but it wasn't a large extra cost so I just ordered them. And if I screw something up they are reusable.
I do suspect installing the heads with them will be interesting. Typically they get installed into the block before the head is laid down, partly to ensure they all get installed to the correct depth and threads are clean, nothing is left on the gasket mating surface, etc. But I suspect getting the head back over them with the exhaust manifolds already on the heads will be impossible. For the passenger side that wouldn't be the end of the world.. I have that downpipe out and can fish the manifold up through the gap. But the driver side is a whole different thing. With the fuel and KDSS lines running along the frame rail the access to the bolts is severely restricted. Plus that downpipe is much more difficult (if not impossible in my driveway) to remove.. I'm pretty sure those bolts into the muffler assembly are completely seized based on the corrosion appearance, on top of not even being sure I can fish the downpipe out over the crossmember without a lift anyway.
So when I get everything cleaned up I'll explore my options.
Looks like some minor carbon build on the valve seats. Imagine what that would like without port injection.
If you do end up machining the head, would that then require a thicker head gasket to accommodate the material taken off?
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- #59
Looks like some minor carbon build on the valve seats. Imagine what that would like without port injection.
If you do end up machining the head, would that then require a thicker head gasket to accommodate the material taken off?
Would DI impact the exhaust seats? In my case the intake seats all look great.
I did find a good machine shops much closer without the extensive wait. Was hoping to have them take as little material off as possible. There’s a chance I get there and the guy says don’t bother.. I’m just not sure how OCD to be about the sealing surface. Will get some more pics of the areas I’m focusing on shortly.
Oh sorry, I missed that. Yeah, exhaust seats would be the same if DI or Port.
I would just have a machine shop take a look at it. You’ve already gone this far, and spending a little more time at this stage will create peace of mind down the road. It would suck to have to redo the job in the near future due to some small warpage which can’t be seen to the naked eye.