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- #161
and...
Builds ...and it starts... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter woody
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- Thread starter
- #162
last for today...
if you went to 44's would you have a 90degree dep angle? that sucka looks close
Do you know what you are going to do for bumpstops or are you just going to let the sheetmetal be your bumpstop? 
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Looks cool Woody....great work. Awesome to see a project coming together!
I would consider outboarding the tops of your shocks so you can maximize their ability to dampen that setup while you are cutting and welding in there. When I outboarded my shocks, they worked so much better with controlling bounce.
What is the story with the drain plug? That is funny...you going to just pull the cover to drain it? Make sence.
Finally....when you get rid of those training wheels you will have a 90* departure
I would consider outboarding the tops of your shocks so you can maximize their ability to dampen that setup while you are cutting and welding in there. When I outboarded my shocks, they worked so much better with controlling bounce.
What is the story with the drain plug? That is funny...you going to just pull the cover to drain it? Make sence.
Finally....when you get rid of those training wheels you will have a 90* departure
Looks like a polished turd 
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- #167
It IS a polished turd! lol
Never have run rear bumpstops....with the overload leaf in place, we'll see how much rubbing it gets....may swap in a longer overload later too.
yeah, I figger my next set of might be 39.9 IROK's and that'll improve my departure...lol
I've yet to own a rear drain plug that worked....always ground them down badly, even the allen types never helped. I use a bolt on the bottom of the rear cover instead of a stud, again cause I've ground that down too...outta work perfect.
Wheelbase ended at 98.5", 2.5" longer than it was.
I considered redoing the shocks, and still likely will, but $$$$ isn't there yet for new ones....maybe this summer.
Never have run rear bumpstops....with the overload leaf in place, we'll see how much rubbing it gets....may swap in a longer overload later too.
yeah, I figger my next set of might be 39.9 IROK's and that'll improve my departure...lol
I've yet to own a rear drain plug that worked....always ground them down badly, even the allen types never helped. I use a bolt on the bottom of the rear cover instead of a stud, again cause I've ground that down too...outta work perfect.
Wheelbase ended at 98.5", 2.5" longer than it was.
I considered redoing the shocks, and still likely will, but $$$$ isn't there yet for new ones....maybe this summer.
SpaceGhost
GOLD Star
Looking good Woody, How long before you are ready for the Attica shakedown?
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- #169
I'll be done perhaps as soon as tonight....t-case install, fluids, and brake lines are it.
March 20th FOR SURE in Attica! (barring 6" of rain or a blizzard....lol)
March 20th FOR SURE in Attica! (barring 6" of rain or a blizzard....lol)
hey woody
shoot me a pic of how your upper link is mounted at the frame.
need to finalize my design lol
got some coils from a friends heep, thinking of going that route instead of eliptical.
guess i'll have to run a panhard as well, if using coils.
did you remove the frame cross member right behind the transfer case, and if so do you plan on putting it back or just doing without?
Steve
shoot me a pic of how your upper link is mounted at the frame.
need to finalize my design lol
got some coils from a friends heep, thinking of going that route instead of eliptical.
guess i'll have to run a panhard as well, if using coils.
did you remove the frame cross member right behind the transfer case, and if so do you plan on putting it back or just doing without?
Steve
- Thread starter
- #171
basically, a sleeve completely thru the frame, reinforced plate in the inside, and a double-shear tab. Getting that thing aligned/perpendicular to the link was a PITA...it's damn close...lol
Ya, the crossmember was yanked, but probably could have stayed....opted to remove while I was in there.
I could switch to coils and not need a panhard....triangulated upper prevents side-to-side movement
Ya, the crossmember was yanked, but probably could have stayed....opted to remove while I was in there.
I could switch to coils and not need a panhard....triangulated upper prevents side-to-side movement
[quote author=tewlman link=board=12;threadid=8547;start=msg117162#msg117162 date=1078758462]
got some coils from a friends heep, thinking of going that route instead of eliptical.
guess i'll have to run a panhard as well, if using coils.
Steve
[/quote]
Shouldn't have to run a panhard if the upper links are triangulated.
got some coils from a friends heep, thinking of going that route instead of eliptical.
guess i'll have to run a panhard as well, if using coils.
Steve
[/quote]
Shouldn't have to run a panhard if the upper links are triangulated.
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- #175
[quote author=tewlman link=board=12;threadid=8547;start=msg117187#msg117187 date=1078760231]
then you just run a bolt all the way thru?
[/quote]
that 5/8" bolt is like 6" long...you can see it sticking out without a nut on the "last pic of the day" post above. That seemed to be the easiest way to mount the link in double shear, and provide plenty of strength around it.
then you just run a bolt all the way thru?
[/quote]
that 5/8" bolt is like 6" long...you can see it sticking out without a nut on the "last pic of the day" post above. That seemed to be the easiest way to mount the link in double shear, and provide plenty of strength around it.
- Thread starter
- #176
first, a pic of the frame-side link mounts...note the double shear for both.
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- #177
tonights rear work was brake lines and body mounts....have most of the mounts reinstalled, and have all but one hose prepped for the lines. Still need to make a couple tabs for the lines off the existing lower link mount too, easy enuf for tomorrow
- Thread starter
- #178
another shot of the brakelines....note the quality use of zip ties to attach to the upper link....was gonna do hard mounts, but if I evern have to adjust or replace, that'll be a PITA...this outta work fine. The short hose is the same as one from the backing plate to the caliper...the short hose at the frame side is also 9" and will be in tomorros at NAPA. Lines were all custom bent/flared, 3/16" line with M10 fittings all over except where they attach to the soft hoses at the calipers.
Alsp started on installing the new alum alloy plate adapter....<bling>....pics pending on that, maybe tomorrow when I finish it.
Alsp started on installing the new alum alloy plate adapter....<bling>....pics pending on that, maybe tomorrow when I finish it.
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Thats damn dope, the brake lines we did were with cheepy stainless units Andre recomended.,
A little twist in the line and a little spring could maybe help you out?
A little twist in the line and a little spring could maybe help you out?
